Need everyones help again (Page 5): I still use my T2i. But I have been shooting aperture priority forever. Try that. I have a kit lens, the Tamron, and a wide angle. I don't see any...

bittermelon

I still use my T2i. But I have been shooting aperture priority forever. Try that. I have a kit lens, the Tamron, and a wide angle. I don't see any need to change my equipment.

BTW Vancouver Island is just great.

Kites

I don't know what lens you have now. I am a wild life photographer and have several lenses. I shoot mainly in S mode plus auto ISO and use mainly 2000th shutter. If I want a greater depth of field I use A plus auto ISO. For birds I use a 200- 500mm lens. I don't recommend it on a trip as it is heavy. I would take my 55- 300mm and 18- 140mm. I use the 300 for butterflies. Plan on taking some videos of whales. I would recommend watching YouTube videos to learn about your specific camera and the shutter, aperture, ISO relationship. Guess I have learned most of what I know about photography from YouTube. Enjoy your trip. We went last year.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

jjbrenner wrote:

,,,I bought the 80D about a year ago, and have been completely satisfied. It's an amazing camera, and if you can find a refurb from Canon at a price you can afford, I don't think you can go wrong...

The 80D is an excellent camera.

However, the T7i, 77D and 80D all share the same 45-point AF system. The only differences are relatively minor... 80D has Micro Focus Adjustment for users to fine tune the focus of specific lenses on the camera, the other two don't. And the 80D uses a true pentaprism to make for a slightly larger and brighter viewfinder, while the other two use "penta-mirror"-based viewfinders to save some cost and a little weight. 80D's is a 100% viewfinder, the other two are 95%. All three cameras have the same low light focusing (-3EV) and "f/8" capability (up to 27 of the AF points can autofocus an f/5.6 lens with a 1.4X teleconverter, for example). All three also have the same Dual Pixel AF in Live View/Video mode.

(NOTE: Some websites and reviews state that the T7i and 77D are NOT f/8 capable. They are incorrect. Both these cameras use much the same AF system as 80D and all of them are f/8 capable. So is the Canon 6D Mark II, which also uses the same 45-point AF system. The 65-point AF system in 7D Mark II and 61-point AF systems in recent 5D-series and 1D-series models are also f/8 capable.)

All three cameras also use essentially the same 24MP sensor... but the newer T7i & 77D pair their sensor up with a newer, faster Digic 7 processor, while the older 80D uses a Digic 6. The newer processor likely is part of the reason the two newer models have a slightly higher native ISO range: 80D's is 100-16000 (expandable to 25600). T7i & 77D's ISO range is 100-25,600 (expandable to 51200). Just how usable those highest ISOs are is largely down to personal preference, and might vary a lot depending upon what's being photographed, the user's post-processing of the images. and how the images will ultimately be used. The newer/faster processor also likely contribute to AF performance.

Some other differences... 80D has a higher specification shutter: 1/8000 top speed (versus 1/4000), 1/250 flash sync (versus 1/200) and rated for 100,000 actuations (versus 75,000... but this is a guesstimate based on earlier models, because Canon hasn't officially stated durability ratings for these models, AFAIK). 80D can shoot at a slightly higher continuous rate: 7 frames per second (versus 6 fps in the other two). 80D also has a larger buffer to be able to take more shots in a high speed burst before it needs to slow or pause to clear memory.

80D also uses a larger battery that gives it more shots per charge. 80D also can be fitted with a battery grip (BG-E14, same as used by 70D), doubling the number of LP-E6N batteries (grip also provides useful vertical controls). Somewhat oddly, IMO, Canon "downgraded" the 77D and T7i from earlier models in this market niche, by not offering a battery grip for them or even providing the necessary electronic contacts for one. (A Canon BG is available for T6i, T6s and their predecessors.) There is an inexpensive third party "Vello" grip being made to fit the T7i and 77D... but it only provides a shutter release button (no other vertical controls)... AND, it requires a short external cable connection to be able to actuate the shutter. It does provide means of using a second LP-E17 battery, though, doubling capacity.

T7i doesn't have an "AF On" button, while both the 77D and 80D do. This button is often used for Back Button Focusing technique. That can still be done with the T7i, but will require using the */AE-Lock button for the purpose instead. This means that button will be unavailable for AE-Lock purposes (though it's pretty easy to instead just switch the camera to M exposure mode to lock in exposure settings).

More info here: https://www.dpreview.com/articles/5322759563/buyers-guide-canon-eos-rebel-t7i-800d-vs-eos-77d-vs-eos-80d

Diocletian

DirtFarmer wrote:

(Off topic) br If you hit enter prematurely you ca... (show quote)

I didn't know THAT! Thanks!👍👍

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

johnst1001a wrote:

I have the 70-300, which does a beautiful job, but needs a lot of light or you have to boost the ISO or use a tripod...

Do you think a little more specific info might be helpful? After all, Canon has made five or six different 70-300s and three versions of them are currently available new in stores.

johnst1001a wrote:

As for close-ups, the Canon 100 mm macro would be my choice, but you can just stand back a bit and use the 70-300 at 100 mm or a bit more and get essentially the same result.

Canon's 100mm macro are excellent lenses (have one myself and it's probably my single, most frequently used macro lens)... BUT instead of carrying an additional lens, get a set of macro extension tubes. Those are cheaper, lighter and more compact... work well and can increase the magnification and close focusing capabilities of any lens. I recommend the Kenko macro tube set for their quality, but there are less expensive Vello, Opteka, Zeikos and others.... a little or a lot more plasticky and more flimsy latching mechanisms, but they work. Just don't go "too cheap" with macro tubes. Be sure to get the ones with the electronic connections... not the plain, sub-$25 sets without. Those just don't work well with modern, electronically controlled lenses like we've been discussing here.

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

TexasLynn wrote:

You were all so helpful with your ideas for how to... (show quote)

Hi Lyn, It appears to me you are upgrading cameras and lenses for the right reasons - you have progressed enough that you are beginning to see the limitations of what you have. Not being a Canon user, I cannot give advice on specifics, but Amfoto has done an excellent job of that. The same thing happened to me with my first Nikon DSLR. The way I approached this was to do some research, which it sounds like you have been doing. There are a lot of reviews out there, and you can also go to Canon's website and upload manuals which have a complete list of specifications. It is wonderful how much can be learned by comparing specifications!

Since you already know how much you can spend, that makes it easier to narrow down choices. Just buy the best you can afford so it will meet your needs as long as possible. While a better camera will have features improving on the one you own, also understand the importance of better glass. The faster the better, especially if you do a lot of hand-held photography and need those faster shutter speeds to help prevent blur due to camera shake. I use a tripod a lot, but there are many situations where one cannot be used. Even though a zoom lens does not have a set aperture throughout its range, having that lower number available at the start means that the numbers do not get higher as quickly. It does make a difference. And, of course, a more advanced camera will allow other compensations more efficiently such as higher ISO with less noise as well as a faster focusing motor.

One Last Note: When you are answering a comment, it helps if you use "Quote Reply" - that will put the other person's comments into your response. Makes it easier to know to whom you are speaking! Also, I do love your butterflies and flowers image.

CanonTom Loc: Birmingham

amfoto1 wrote:

Just to clarify.... br br Auto FOCUS and auto EXP... (show quote)

Alan's post I am referencing now has given you everything you need to know based on your original posting. Others have given you some great advice as well.

My take:

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the camera you have...PUT YOUR MONEY INTO BETTER GLASS!

Sorry to shout but wanted to get your attention. I have the Canon 70-300 L IS USM Alan mentioned. You can buy a good one used (rated excellent +) from KEH in Atlanta (no I do not get paid to say that and not affiliated) for around $900 to $950. You can hand hold it nicely with its great IS ability. With your crop body your 300mm will reach to 480mm! That lens is tact sharp from wide open to full telephoto! I have a friend on the Florida Gulf Coast who sells seascapes regularly and for good money using that lens and a lower end Canon Rebel than you have. Put your money into that combo and I think you will be in super shape equipt wise. The rest is practice and training on your part! Good luck and happy shooting!

Tom

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Kites wrote:

I don't know what lens you have now. I am a wild l... (show quote)

Obviously you are a Nikon, Pentax or Sony shooter... I'm guessing Nikon since I know they make 55-300, 18-140 and 200-500mm lenses... none of which Canon makes... and I don't think Sony or Pentax do, either.

For the benefit of the original poster who is using Canon and may not be aware:

Nikon/Sony/Pentax "S" = Canon "Tv"... which in all cases mean "shutter priority auto exposure" (photographer chooses the ISO and the shutter speed, and the camera chooses an aperture that it "thinks" will render an accurate exposure).

Nikon/Sony/Pentax "A" = Canon "Av"... which in all cases mean "aperture priority auto exposure" (photographer chooses the ISO and the aperture, and the camera chooses an shutter speed that it "thinks" will render an accurate exposure).

Makes no sense to me to use A/Av with Auto ISO, which you mention doing. That's a "double auto exposure" mode.... I've tried, but haven't been able to think of any purpose for combing Auto ISO with another AE mode and worry that it would be rather unpredictable. (Same would be true using Auto ISO with either S/Tv or P AE modes.)

I only use Auto ISO with M (which makes "M" another form of auto exposure.... no longer "manual"). But even that I only use sparingly, on the rare occasions when I want to constrain both aperture and shutter speeds to specific settings, but still need to have AE to accommodate variable lighting conditions. IMO, Auto ISO is a useful new feature on recent cameras, but it's massively overused, very often by folks who are kidding themselves that they're "only shooting manual"... which in itself is frequently a rather silly and unnecessary self-limitation... but they aren't actually doing anyway, whenever they're using Auto ISO with M. That's no longer "manual". It's just another form of auto exposure.

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

TexasLynn wrote:

Thank you. I will definitely check it out. That is where I was going to get the T7i - refurbished of course.

good
I see someone down played the 77D, the extra top screen, the extra buttons and the weather sealing are well worth the price over the T7i.
In fact if you could swing it the 80D has even better weather sealing and more options. Not as good as the 7DII (an even better choice, but more $$) or the upper end full frames, but more than the T7i and you are going to be in a kayak and VERY close to the water. Cameras and water do not play well together.

Someone else suggested the 100-400L mk2 lens. It is my favorite lens but I would not recommend it for use from a kayak, it is fairly big and heavy for hanging around your neck in a boat. A 28-135 would be a better choice here, smaller, lighter and goes wider if Orcas or other subjects get up close. You lose on the long end, but... And the 55-250 or 70-300 (several versions, some much better than the others) would be a "in the middle" compromise.
Of course having 2 or three lenses in a bag is better from the photography point of view but not from the "I will be in a kayak and trying to change lenses." point of view. The Tamron 18-400 would also be a great alternative as long as you are not looking for extremely high image IQ. The zoom range is tempting but I do a lot of birds and butterflies-I like extreme details.

One tip for the posting, use "quote reply" instead of "reply" or "quick reply" so everyone knows just who or what you are talking about.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

robertjerl wrote:

...One tip for the posting, use "quote reply" instead of "reply" or "quick reply" so everyone knows just who or what you are talking about.

Bingo! That would help (and the result is like you see here, so we know who and what you're responding to).

I just took another, closer look at your sample image of the butterflies....

The highlights are "blown out" (no detail in the brightest/whitest areas of the image)... and there is strong purple fringing. Finally, sharpness and detail are okay, but could be better.

Regarding those aspects of your photo, I have four rather rhetorical questions:

1. Do you have a "protection" filter on the lens? Often stores will push those... and some folk like to use them. But lower quality, uncoated filters - in particular - can lead to image problems such as I've noted.

2. Are you using a lens hood? If not, one that's properly matched to the lens is highly advised. Does a better job physically protecting a lens than any thin glass filter ever could... Plus can improve image quality by keeping oblique light off the lens. And so long as it's a properly fitted one, a lens hood can never "harm" an image, the way shooting through a filter can.

3. What lens are you using? I really can't tell from the image EXIF and scanned your many previous responses, but didn't see info. All the above observations about your sample image also could be due to a lens' shortcomings. Someone else suggested you concentrate on upgrading your glass (lens) and not worry too much about upgrading the camera yet. That might be good advice. There's also something to be said for taking gear that you're familiar with on a long-awaited trip, so you don't have to spend your time figuring out how to use a new camera.

4. Have you had the camera's sensor cleaned or done so yourself? The reason I ask is because something that's often overlooked is that a dirty sensor also can lead to some of the image "issues" I noted above.... a dirty camera sensor makes for reduced sharpness and less fine detail. It also can lead to "blooming" and flare effects, if there are oils on the sensor (usually lubricants from the shutter mechanism).

Your T3i has a "self-cleaning" sensor feature that runs every time you turn the camera on or off. It's a great feature... but can only do so much. A careful and proper cleaning of the sensor is still needed, though a lot less often than with cameras that didn't have self-cleaning sensors. It's sometimes surprising how much difference you see in your images, after a good cleaning.

You can clean sensors yourself (see www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com for more info).... and might want to invest in some of the stuff needed for that purpose anyway, to have with you "just in case". But it does need to be done properly and carefully... there's risk of doing damage to the camera if it's done wrong. If at all uncertain about doing it yourself, I recommend having a local professional camera repair tech do the cleaning. It usually costs $30 to $50, depending upon where you are. But it may be worth it to avoid some of the possible mistakes that can leave you without a camera for a while and with an expensive repair!

If you decide to try doing sensor cleanings yourself, you'll need to invest between $100 and $150 in the necessary supplies to do it right, but those will be enough for a number of cleanings so it will end up costing less per cleaning than having it done professionally. Just be sure to read everything at the link above, before tackling the job. The guys who maintain that site are professional repair techs themselves, as well as owning and operating Micro-Tools.com, one of the top suppliers to the camera repair industry. They pretty much sell everything for the purpose, so have some experience with it all and are fairly unbiased in their recommendations. Larry also has "written the book" on professional camera repair.... well actually many of them.

Photocraig

Hi Lynn,
From Nevada Mustang country, I have the EF 70-300 II lens which replaced my original model. The II is excellent and very fast focusing. I researched the DO and the 70-300 "L" version @$1300, which by budget default was eliminated. Read the DO reviews. It has some deficiencies that the EF 70-300 model II doesn't. Look up Ken Rockwell's review--it is favorable and it is a user review rather than an on paper specification comparisons. And he shoots in the country.

The "after 6 frames" issue is a buffer issue which means that the in camera memory buffer is full from the continuous shots and then takes time to write the photo files to the SD card. My old 50D punked out at about 4-5 shots. Check to see if your T7i buffer will transfer shots faster and hold more. It is one instance where I shoot jpeg only because RAW files are so much bigger and for action sports either I got the "moment" or I didn't and I'm less picky about Post processing than I am with other subjects like landscapes and Portraits.

I have the 77D which causes me no delay when I'm shooting continuous. Don't know the buffer specs differences between it and the T7i, but I've shot pro basketball courtside and never had a delay, while the old 50D locked up on youth Flag Football.

Those Monarchs look as good as I've ever seen.
C

TexasLynn

amfotoI - I have read your note twice and copied it to a note to read again. I loved understanding what your said and am going to research for myself further. 1 more question, you never mentioned the 77D. Many others and the spects say this is a good camera and almost exactly the same as the T7i. Any thoughts on that?

TexasLynn

Hi from Mustang Country! Oh my there are some beautiful Nevada Mustangs out there. I do see a lot of them with throw back genes resembling the Morgan breed (long flowing mane and tails and the distinct coloring and...ok you know what I mean.) I have been to NV (Reno area and the corrals) and up into the Twin peaks area. So far 5 states to see the wild ones. I do go to the Fort Worth Mustang Makeovers as much as possible. Thanks for your input on what you use to shoot out there. It has been 3 years since I was out to Mustang country and I am chomping to get back. This trip I am taking involves kayaking with Orca whales so I am looking for speed -no lag- and a better lens than the kit one. Thanks for your input - I will take it all into consideration.

TexasLynn

Well, once I get my decision made and my specs clear in my mind - or notes- I willhead up there and see what they have to offer. If they pricematch I would buy from them. I like shopping with local merchants.

TexasLynn

I have been trying use the suggestions I got last night...thank for telling me which button to us...and your note.

SusanFromVermont wrote:

Hi Lyn, It appears to me you are upgrading cameras... (show quote)