OK, I'll post one before and after to get this started. I may have posted one or both of these in the Photo Gallery before, so apologize if this seems like a rerun.
The before picture is the metered ("normal" exposure) one of a series of five photos. The after picture is the HDR composite. The third image is one that has been desaturated and faded. I have had the HDR one printed on aluminum at 16"x24". It is on top of an aluminum print of the desaturated one at 20"x28" and hanging in my office. (
http://www.bayphoto.com/metalprints/double-float )
Yes, critics, I am aware that I left too much halo on the trees in this one.
Here is an example of a HDR created with 3 images. +1, 0, -1 and the final HDR image. I have tried to make this as True to what I saw at the time I took these pictures. I use PaintShop Pro4 to process it.
Here's one I did awhile back, IDK... Still in the learning process. I bracketed three shots; -1, 0, 1+. My backyard, thought the cloud formation was appealing so I took the shots...
I tried to make this as close to what I saw. Used -2, 0, +2 and Photomatix Pro 4.1 I also used unadjusted raw files and did conversion and adjustment in Photomatix. I can't remember but I might have been using a CPL filter.
That is exactly why I want to learn to take HDR. A perfect picture that could not have been done any other way, yet it doesn't have the HDR look to it. I can't wait until I can take some time and give HDR some serious effort.
Thank you for starting this HDR forum. It is going to be a great help.
Tom Hudson
I tried to make this as close to what I saw. Used -2, 0, +2 and Photomatix Pro 4.1 I also used unadjusted raw files and did conversion and adjustment in Photomatix. I can't remember but I might have been using a CPL filter.
This is good to know, as I also use Paint Shop Pro X4. have been trying a free program called Dynamic Photo HDR with mixed results.
Here are 2 that I took using my HS20EXR bridge camera using -1, 0 and +1 then used Photomaitx to merge them
Not all cameras provide the tool to take a series of bracketed images but if the camera has a tool for exposure compendation you can use it to take a series of pictures at different exposures at 1EV increments, then merge them in software. Take at least 3 images 5 is even better. Use aperture prority so that the depth of field remains the same and be sure to use a tripod. The term EV means exposure value.
Tooth Maker wrote:
I tried to make this as close to what I saw. Used -2, 0, +2 and Photomatix Pro 4.1 I also used unadjusted raw files and did conversion and adjustment in Photomatix.
Perfectly executed! This situation is exactly why HDR programing was written.
Nikonian72 wrote:
Tooth Maker wrote:
I tried to make this as close to what I saw. Used -2, 0, +2 and Photomatix Pro 4.1 I also used unadjusted raw files and did conversion and adjustment in Photomatix.
Perfectly executed! This situation is exactly why HDR programing was written.
Thank you for your comment Douglass.
I'll add some HDR's that I did on flowers.
Swede
Original
HDR
Original
HDR
GPappy
Loc: Finally decided to plop down, Clover, S.C.
Heres one of mine. 3 shots, 0, +2 and -2. I only posted the HDR. Great shots by the way!
is it better to bracket 1 full stop up and down or two. and does this extra difference give more contrast ratio? what would happen with 3? and this is going to be a stupid question..... I know the 4/3rds camera's etc. but what is a bridge camera?
GPappy
Loc: Finally decided to plop down, Clover, S.C.
zincgt wrote:
is it better to bracket 1 full stop up and down or two. and does this extra difference give more contrast ratio? what would happen with 3? and this is going to be a stupid question..... I know the 4/3rds camera's etc. but what is a bridge camera?
I'd say this is one that falls under the "more is better" catagory. My camera will only go to +/-2, which did better for me than +/-1. Yes I think it added more contrast ratio. A bridge camera is basically a minature DSLR without an interchangeable lens. They have through the lens viewing and live mode usually and most have a broad spectrum lens that can handle macro close ups and tele-photo. Their controls are also similar in function and design for the most part. I also think the only stupid questions are the ones you already know the answer to. :-)
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