Delderby wrote:
You can edit JPGs in the same way as RAWs, but RAWs will give you more dynamic range, approx. 3 stops, say 1.5 stops either end of the scale, to play with. This means that you might be able to recover more detail in shadows or recover more detail from near blown highlights with the RAW file. However, if your increasing experience allows you to recognise exposure probs at the time then you can always bracket your shots to give you three different exposures. Technology is improving JPGs and closing the gap.
The problem is file size. Now that we have sensors producing huge files, say 55 mpx, you will get less than 200 pics to the Gb of storage space.
You can edit JPGs in the same way as RAWs, but RAW... (
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Not completely true. A raw file is limited to broad, rules-based edits. It's like creating a collection of custom settings in your camera for contrast, sharpening, saturation, color space, white balance and noise reduction. In a raw converter you can do that, but take it a little further with the ability to apply some adjustments to local areas of the image as well as globally to the entire image. This is all done at full capture resolution color and bit depth - usually 14 bit in the camera.
Editing a jpeg out of the camera is taking an image that has already been processed, reduced to 8 bit, and compressed to make the file smaller than the original. If you use a pixel based editor - like Corel or Photoshop, you can do considerably more editing - but the changes need to be kept fairly subtle. It's not easy, though it is possible, to change an incorrect white balance setting - but you may encounter clipping, out of gamut color and/or banding in the process. If an image has been overly de-noised in the camera - you cannot ever bring back the fine details lost in the process. Jpeg is probably the worst file format to use for editing.
The better solution is to use a 16 bit tiff or psd file. However converting from a jpeg to either format is not going to give you back anything discarded when the camera created the jpeg. But it will keep you from losing more data.
The one excepting to being able to edit a jpeg like a raw file comes with those raw converters that will open and edit a jpeg, or a pixel editor like Photoshop that has the ability to open a jpeg image as a raw file, or better yet, a camera raw filter - that allows you to use the same tools and sliders available in Adobe Camera Raw without really leaving the Photoshop editing space.
But spending a short time with a raw file in a raw editor, then taking the same image as a jpeg and editing that - the difference in editing capability becomes immediately apparent - there is a bi difference between editing a jpeg and a raw file.
A jpeg image - which is 8 bits by definition, can only properly display 8 stops of dynamic range -a 14 bit raw file can record up to 14 stops of dynamic range - theoretically speaking. Most display devices and media can only display on average 5-8 stops of dynamic range. So, regardless of what you capture, it will be tonally compressed down to 5-8 stops in the process. However, if the camera only produces an 8 stop image, without paying any special attention to selective tone mapping - you will lose detail and information at the extremes - and that is what will eventually be compressed for output. But when you start with a 14 bit raw file - you have considerably more dynamic range, and less clipping at the extremes, which can generate a more tonally "complete" image at the end of the process.
Unless the industry finalizes a standard for a 16 bit jpeg (Jpeg XT or Jpeg XL) - you are not likely to see this happening for a while. And the argument of which is better will be finally put to rest - a 16 bit jpeg will likely be close in size to a lossless compressed raw file. I think that getting the industry to re-tool itself for 16 bit jpegs will be a huge undertaking - though not out of the realm of possibility.
This is a great article explaining dynamic range
https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dynamic-range.htm