Digital cameras provide the options of setting WB manually or using auto-ISO in conjunction with the exposure modes (P,A,S,M). It is one of the advantages of digital technology. There is no absolute answer with regard to auto-iso. There are times auto-Iso makes sense, times when it does not, and different photographers are naturally going to have different preferences.
And any time something on a camera is causing confusion and possibly ruined or missed shots, then it's wise to turn that "something" off until it is better understood. And it's time to RTFM and then go do some controlled experimentation.
My ISO is rarely set to Auto.
Sensors often have a different base ISO. I inquire as to the base ISO. Usually low 80 with some 100 with others, not very often but occasionally 200. I use base ISO.
You cannot say you use Auto ISO, AND that you shoot fully manual. Contradiction in terms. Same as if you set your ISO to one speed and your aperture to f8, and kept your shutter speed on Auto. That is NOT shooting manual.
Unless your three elements of exposure are locked on settings you choose, you are still shooting some form of program mode.
Yes Heather, it really is that simple. You just have to know how each chosen setting affects your image.
Kuzano wrote:
My ISO is rarely set to Auto.
Sensors often have a different base ISO. I inquire as to the base ISO. Usually low 80 with some 100 with others, not very often but occasionally 200. I use base ISO.
You cannot say you use Auto ISO, AND that you shoot fully manual. Contradiction in terms. Same as if you set your ISO to one speed and your aperture to f8, and kept your shutter speed on Auto. That is NOT shooting manual.
Unless your three elements of exposure are locked on settings you choose, you are still shooting some form of program mode.
Yes Heather, it really is that simple. You just have to know how each chosen setting affects your image.
My ISO is rarely set to Auto. br br Sensors often... (
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It's not about whether you shoot fully manual or some other combination of settings. It's about the image and what story or emotion it evokes.
For those of us with a film background certain elements of the “auto’s” in today’s digital camera world can be confusing. My first DSLR’s weren’t so great after 800 ISO, and did not have auto ISO. So, when I moved to the D750, I struggled a bit on the auto ISO learning curve. For me, it’s a tool I use in situations where I’m moving through varying light levels, and don’t have time to negotiate manual settings. Purists may cry foul over this method, but sometimes getting the shot trumps my pride, lol.
wdross
Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado
Rick-in-Tor0nto wrote:
I'm an old hand at film photography going right back to the 1950's
Currently, I have a Nikon 5200, a 7500, four lenses, extension tubes and an SB-600.
I had no problem with film in balancing aperture versus shutter speed, bokeh, freezing etc. But now that I have a variable ISO, I find the three-way juggling awkward and difficult to decide on. I understand them but can't decide when to fiddle with ISO or what to use as standard(s). And auto ISO really confuses me.
If somebody know of a good article or two that doesn't get ridiculously technical, or wants to spend 50 words with their own explanation of why they'd choose one set of settings over others, I'd appreciate it.
I'm an old hand at film photography going right ba... (
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If you don't use Auto ISO, then set your ISO to its native setting. Now you change your aperture and shutter settings just like in the film days. The advantage with digital, should you need to change your aperture and shutter but you are at the limits for what you are shooting, now you can change your "film" or ISO setting to keep the aperture and shutter settings where you need them. So the way I run my exposure is set shutter and aperture first to what is needed. And then if that is not enough, I change the ISO to keep the aperture and shutter settings settings that I needed.
Kuzano wrote:
My ISO is rarely set to Auto.
Sensors often have a different base ISO. I inquire as to the base ISO. Usually low 80 with some 100 with others, not very often but occasionally 200. I use base ISO.
You cannot say you use Auto ISO, AND that you shoot fully manual. Contradiction in terms. Same as if you set your ISO to one speed and your aperture to f8, and kept your shutter speed on Auto. That is NOT shooting manual.
Unless your three elements of exposure are locked on settings you choose, you are still shooting some form of program mode.
Yes Heather, it really is that simple. You just have to know how each chosen setting affects your image.
My ISO is rarely set to Auto. br br Sensors often... (
show quote)
Why is it so important to defend the definition of "fully manual"?
It seems to me the important thing to learn here is that the mode "Manual + Auto ISO" (Nikon speak) is a very useful alternative to the aperture or shutter priority modes.
I am an old timer too in film photography. Film photography limits you photography by having a set ISO of the film. You can tweak the ISO dial for special lighting conditions. That is what you are used to so I suggest you turn off the Auto ISO and do it the old fashioned way. Then use the Auto ISO when ever the need arises.
NCMtnMan
Loc: N. Fork New River, Ashe Co., NC
With film we knew that as the ISO went up the grain of the shot would typically increase. In the digital world this is called noise which you can think of a visual static. The reason that most manufacturers set the ISO to auto now is because with the quality of the sensors and electronics in most current equipment, you have to get to pretty extreme ISO levels to start creating significant noise in you shot. In addition, most post processing software will give you the capability of reducing the noise in a shot.
So take a lot of shots in differing light conditions, shutter speeds and apertures. And then set you ISO to 100 or 200 and shoot the same conditions. Look at them and see what makes you happy. If you're satisfied with the auto setting, then it's one less thing to be distracting you from your shot.
CamB
Loc: Juneau, Alaska
I am not confused by Auto ISO, and I see it's value. The problem for me is not knowing what the camera is choosing. This is a mental and trust battle between me and the camera. 55years of carrying a camera pretty much all the time and some of the changes come hard. For the past three weeks I have been trying auto ISO but it continues to go against my history. I almost gave it up but...so many people here say such good things about it, and yesterday, my new D7500 arrived. (D7100 finally died. Never liked it anyway.) So I'm going to give it another try. The cruise ships have started to arrive for the summer and I am now 'out with the whales' four days a week. Seems like a perfect chance to master this. I can do this, I can do this.
...Cam
Rick-in-Tor0nto wrote:
I'm an old hand at film photography going right back to the 1950's
Currently, I have a Nikon 5200, a 7500, four lenses, extension tubes and an SB-600.
I had no problem with film in balancing aperture versus shutter speed, bokeh, freezing etc. But now that I have a variable ISO, I find the three-way juggling awkward and difficult to decide on. I understand them but can't decide when to fiddle with ISO or what to use as standard(s). And auto ISO really confuses me.
If somebody know of a good article or two that doesn't get ridiculously technical, or wants to spend 50 words with their own explanation of why they'd choose one set of settings over others, I'd appreciate it.
I'm an old hand at film photography going right ba... (
show quote)
Shoot exactly the same as you would with film only with digital you have the ability to change the film speed when ever a different lighting condition occurs. Think for yourself. Don't ever get tempted to let a camera do the thinking for you.
I just bought my daughter a 7500 to take pictures of the grandkids, a lot of which are at sporting activities, including soccer, basketball and baseball. Lighting varies from good (daylight) to poor (indoor gym and late evening). Shutter speed is a priority in order to stop action. To obtain a sufficient shutter speed to stop action, and a reasonable f stop, our rule of thumb is to use the lowest ISO that will meet those needs. In the gym, that can be as high as 6000. In good daylight, it can be very low.
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