tdekany Loc: Oregon

It is the lenses if I had to bet. Earlier copies had these issues, the op bought both zooms used.

rts2568

No I didn't, Sorry.

tdekany Loc: Oregon

Take it back and show them this picture. They have to fix it. While there, go to a camera store, if this store isn’t one of them. Take yo camera and your zooms with you, and ask the camera store to let you take identical photos with new copies they have in stock vs your zooms. Go home and compare.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Sounds like it is time to contact the manufacturer.

tdekany Loc: Oregon

Not sure what Sony can do for the OP though. I keep saying that it is the lens, and if I’m right, Sony isn’t going to replace them. If it is the camera, well, it maybe a pricy repair.

gessman Loc: Colorado

Well, I wouldn't be concerned about being a "bother" about this if I were you. It hasn't been a problem for me. I type fast and unconsciously enough that a little conversation is rarely a problem. In fact, I often go back and read stuff I've said and discover that I may occasionally be even more unconscious than I originally thought and I'm sure there are others who might agree with that. Carry on and don't sweat the small stuff! I hope you get your problem sorted out soon but "micro-adjust" doesn't seem to be the answer in this case since native lens don't have to be adjusted with mirror-less Sony bodies, as has already been mentioned.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

If, as others have suggested, there were problems with these lenses early on, there may have been a recall or a firmware fix. You would find out about those from the manufacturer.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

To me, the entire sample image appears "soft" (I don't care what Photoshop "says").

I haven't seen anyone ask what might be the simplest question and easiest solution all...

Do you have a "protection" filter on the lens? If so, have you tried shooting without it?

Filter quality can effect every image made with it. But also some lenses just don't "play well" with filters... even very good filters. I am not familiar with your particular lenses, but... for example, the original Canon EF 100-400mm (push/pull zoom version) doesn't "like" filters. Anything on it... even the best filters made... cause it to go soft. And when that happens it's much like you are seeing... the entire image is soft.... not just one part of it (which is what's usually seen when focus is off or a lens has a de-centered element or other fault). A lot of 100-400mm lenses were stunned to learn how sharp their lens was, when they removed the "protection" filter they'd had on it from new (after all the, lens' deep hood probably does a better job of "protecting" than some thin piece of glass ever could).

tropics68 Loc: Georgia

I have not seen any of the following mentioned so pardon me for any repetitions.

If you have ANY filters or other gizmo attached to your lens then take it off. I do not care how much it may have cost. I had a
$90.00 polarizer on my A6000 once and after several hours of pulling my hair out I removed it and VIOLA! focused sharp as a tack.

Try cranking your aperture up to F 14 or F 16 and shoot in aperture mode auto ISO on a calm day with a solid tripod and remote trigger.

Start taking samples at a shorter distance. If your image is sharp then work your way out incrementally until you start having focus issues. Keep in mind that 35mm is not usually meant for long distance sharpness.

Just my two cents worth. Good luck.

Lille Loc: Upstate, NY

Hi Ron,

You may be right about the shutter seed though I've always thought that as a 'general rule' when shooting a hand held shot with a DSLR one should normally not use a shutter speed that is lower than the focal length of the lens. I.E. don't use less than 1/100 of a second when using a 100mm lens or not less that 1/50 of a second with a 50mm lens. So I would assume that using a camera that does not have a mirror to slap around, mounted on a very sturdy tripod using a 2 second shutter delay and with no wind using a shutter speed that is almost TWICE the fl of the lens would be high enough. But maybe not.

Also if 1/50 is to slow and causing a blurry photo would not the entire photo be fuzzy ? ( parts of this photo is not blurred at all )

I need to go out and shoot more !!

Thank you Ron

repleo Loc: Boston

I believe the micro adjusting is only for when using A-mount lenses on the e-mount with an LA-EA adaptor. For e-mount lenses the focus sensors are on the main sensor so no adjustment is necessary or possible.
Grasping at straws here, but I think the A7Rii has an option to select between phase detection focus and contrast detection focus or both. Check you are using both, but I would expect this to reset to both by default on Setting Reset.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

I thought you said it was on a tripod. Is now handheld?

And, Yeah to the filter. I had not thought of that, but a cheap filter could certainly cause that.

Lille Loc: Upstate, NY

No protection here ! At least not on my lenses.

The only filters I've ever used are pretty high quality polarizing filters and occasionally an ND filter. The ND not so often as I still have lots to learn about them. I'm quite sure I didn't have a polarizing filter on the photo I posted.

Thanks :)

Lille Loc: Upstate, NY

No filter and a tripod

:)

Linary Loc: UK

So to recap, you did use f/8, you did use a tripod, you did set a timer delay.
Your shutter speed was 1/50th sec. and whilst this should not really cause focus issues (you were using a tripod), see if you can shoot something at 1/500 sec. or faster.
Many of the comments above are very pertinent, - shoot a series from f/4 to f/16; shooting a high contrast target of some kind; If you can beg or borrow another lens to try it might confirm that your lenses are good or bad.

In answer to your question re the wind etc. Everything would be affected by gusts hitting the camera but some parts of the image more than others. If the camera moved around a pivot, then the outside pixels would travel further than the centre pixels. The outers would appear out of focus, the inners would appear to be soft.

A couple of days ago I lost sixty or so images because I had not fully tightened the locking knob on my tripod and did not notice the slow droop of the camera. Thus ended that session of time lapse. Make sure everything is locked down tightly. Tripod on solid ground, not gravel etc.

A friend of mine who has the same Sony as you - I don't know what lenses he has - told me it took a while before he got used to the camera coming from a Canon background. Several months down the line, he is now producing pin sharp images. (n.b. English pins are sharper than USA tacks )