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Zoo Photography
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Apr 17, 2018 06:49:48   #
NormanTheGr8 Loc: Racine, Wisconsin
 
The 55-200 would be best ,I have had excellent photos from zoo outings with the grand kids with that lens and even better all around results with my Tamron 16-300

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Apr 17, 2018 07:08:07   #
fourg1b2006 Loc: Long Island New York
 
I would bring one lens with me, my 70-200. That should cover most everything.

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Apr 17, 2018 08:46:07   #
Johngalt Loc: Downers Grove, Il
 
Nikon D7000, Nikon 18-300, f/5.6, 1/500, 200mm, lens right up against fence, eagle 20-25 feet away, bright sun behind me.
Your 55-200 will be your best choice as others have stated. Keep fence close... subject farther away... short DOF. Good luck and have fun with the grandkids!



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Apr 17, 2018 09:01:50   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
Go through with the zoom and then go back with the 35 to where it would be a better option.

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Apr 17, 2018 09:06:40   #
Zooman 1
 
First of all I would not recommend serious zoo photography with the family along, unless you go your way and the family goes theirs! Second, and really the most important do not cross any barriers to get a photo. Zoo folks take a dim view of such behavior. Also, weekends are the worse time for serious zoo photography, too many people. Sunday mornings are one of the best times. Also, find out if there are any public feeding times, when zoo visitors can watch animals being fed. Don't use flash in nocturnal exhibits if it is not allowed. Don't block other visitors with a tripod, remember they have as much right to be there you do. You have received good suggestions on photo techniques in the other replies. I have had good luck when photographing through glass with the lens and flash(if used) as close to the glass without touching. Still need to play around to see what will give you the best results. Don't bother calling at zoo animals to move, they get used to such sounds and will generally ignore them. Best of all have fun, learn about the animals and the zoo before you visit. Also, if the zoo you want to visit has free days, avoid if you want to do serious photography. BTW I am a retired zoo director, having spent over 30 years in the zoo field and have taken thousands of zoo photos. Good luck, and remember to enjoy.

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Apr 17, 2018 09:07:31   #
oldseadog43kc Loc: Kansas City, Mo.
 
I have found that holding the lens against glass barriers reduces or eliminates glare/reflection.

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Apr 17, 2018 09:12:39   #
Vancewood
 
I do not recall any of the major exhibits at the Detroit Zoo having fenced in enclosures. Most are surrounded by deep trenches and moats. However going indoors for the reptiles, birds etc. is a different story.

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Apr 17, 2018 09:43:35   #
nikonkelly Loc: SE Michigan
 
jcboy3 wrote:
Use the 55-200 and stick it right up against the obstruction. Shoot between bars; shoot through holes in chain-link fence. Shoot at your fastest aperture. Try to shoot at maximum focal length.

Shoot where the obstructions are in the shade; sunlight on the obstruction will cause flare and make them more visible.

Also, try to shoot while the animals are well away from the obstructions. The closer they get, the more resolved the obstructions become.

If you can't get really close to the obstructions, then you need a faster lens. Shallow DOF is needed to avoid the obstructions resolving in your image. I only shoot with lenses that are f/2.8 or faster. You might try renting a 70-200 f/2.8 lens.

Finally, at some zoos I have been able to use a monopod to raise the camera above the fence. Your camera is really not suitable for this. You need a tilt screen and remote shutter control as a minimum (so you can see where your pointing and shoot when you need to). But better is a camera with wireless remote control; I have a bracket that attached to the monopod and holds my iPhone. I can see the camera view on the iPhone, focus, adjust settings, and shoot.

I would not try this with a rental; you need time to figure this out. But you can easily do this with a modern compact camera. I have a Panasonic LF1 that shoots RAW, has WiFi control. I would check first with the zoo, to see if this is allowed.
Use the 55-200 and stick it right up against the o... (show quote)


silverman, jcboy has just about covered things here... I would only add that renting a 70-200 f2.8 would be a great idea. I live about 45min north of the detroit zoo and so get there a few times each year. in May, you will find that there are a huge number of school children (several thousand each day) that will often be in your way or making it difficult to get the best angle to avoid the flare/glare/reflections of the chain and or glass. The fastest glass is at best in the detroit zoo your only real help. also, if you need additional light, make sure that your shoot at a 45 degree angle or less when ever glass is present. the closer to 90 degrees that you get the more reflection that you will have. There are several areas however that do not have any glass or fence in the way, and those should be maximized... the pond that is near to the reptiles, amphibians and the otters had several wood ducks about 1 month ago. the pond over near the polar bear will often have ducks, blue heron, and even some night heron in or around it as well as night heron in the polar bear exhibit.

one last thing, the Detroit zoo will not allow you to use a monopod or tripod... your all on your own. sorry!

I hope that this is of some help.
Kelly

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Apr 17, 2018 10:20:31   #
Fotoartist Loc: Detroit, Michigan
 
The only place tripods are not allowed in the Detroit Zoo is in the Butterfly exhibit.
nikonkelly wrote:
silverman, jcboy has just about covered things here... I would only add that renting a 70-200 f2.8 would be a great idea. I live about 45min north of the detroit zoo and so get there a few times each year. in May, you will find that there are a huge number of school children (several thousand each day) that will often be in your way or making it difficult to get the best angle to avoid the flare/glare/reflections of the chain and or glass. The fastest glass is at best in the detroit zoo your only real help. also, if you need additional light, make sure that your shoot at a 45 degree angle or less when ever glass is present. the closer to 90 degrees that you get the more reflection that you will have. There are several areas however that do not have any glass or fence in the way, and those should be maximized... the pond that is near to the reptiles, amphibians and the otters had several wood ducks about 1 month ago. the pond over near the polar bear will often have ducks, blue heron, and even some night heron in or around it as well as night heron in the polar bear exhibit.

one last thing, the Detroit zoo will not allow you to use a monopod or tripod... your all on your own. sorry!

I hope that this is of some help.
Kelly
silverman, jcboy has just about covered things her... (show quote)

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Apr 17, 2018 10:21:24   #
agillot
 
55/200 would be it .

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Apr 17, 2018 10:56:26   #
Ron Dial Loc: Cuenca, Ecuador
 
I assume you wish the pics to look like they were not taken in a Zoo. Zoo pics are readily distinguishable due to the angle, the closeness and the lighting. Try to deal with these and you will have better portraits instead of snapshots.

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Apr 17, 2018 11:03:07   #
billgdyoung Loc: Big Bear City, CA
 
good suggestions abound... close fence, far critter, wide open... shoot thru glass at 45 degrees w/o flash... flash will spook some animals...weekdays, not weekends/holidays... chose an area of "clean" glass. One note about our small Big Bear Alpine zoo and the mountain lion enclosure: there is a very thick glass viewing window- early morning when the Zoo opens is a good time to take pictures. These and other apex predators will watch little/tiny kids very intently... much to the horror of the parents, but to the delight of zoologists... focus on the animal's eyes and let DOF do what it wants to.

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Apr 17, 2018 11:08:29   #
joegim Loc: Long Island, NY
 
With my Lumix G7 I set it to AF+MF. If the camera focuses on the screen or bar a turn on the focusing ring allows me to manually focus. In addition a magnified image is displayed on the EVF to aid in focusing. Does the D3300 have the AF+MF feature? And as mentioned previously you can also revert to manual focus.

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Apr 17, 2018 11:10:09   #
jaycoffman Loc: San Diego
 
The last two answers are the key for me--use manual focus with a wide aperture and this is true for glass and fencing. If the animal is moving use a slow shutter speed and pan the animal when you shoot--I've gotten some good shots that way. (Don't forget to set your camera back to auto-focus when you're not shooting through glass or fence--I've screwed up some potentially good pictures by forgetting this step).

Don't know if this applies to you but my wife and I take our spiritual daughter to the zoo pretty regularly and it's not that hard shooting pictures and keeping track of her. I use her as a model a lot (she's at the age of cell phone pics so it's easy) and that keeps her close and involved. I also let her take some of the pictures so she's getting a feel for a camera over a phone. Should be a great day.

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Apr 17, 2018 11:20:10   #
bikertut Loc: Kingsville, MO
 
Silverman wrote:
I am going to take my Grand kids to the Detroit Zoo in May 2018, I want to take some quality images of the Animals, some of these will be behind some type of Screening, Fencing or Bars, So my question here is this;

How do I capture my images of these wonderful animals and not have the obstructions mentioned above in my images?

I will be shooting with my Nikon D3300 with the Nikon 50mm 1.8 lens, the Nikon 35mm 1.8 lens, and the Nikon 55-200 Zoom lens.

I would prefer keeping "ONE" lens on my D3300 all day, but if another will Capture better images I will use it too.

I am a Newbie in DSLR Photography, so my Animal Photography experience is quite limited.

I will look forward to your replies.

Thanks for all of your Suggestions and Advice.
I am going to take my Grand kids to the Detroit Zo... (show quote)


In my limited travels, I have gone to zoos from Oklahoma City to Cleveland. Haven’t gotten to Detroit yet, but I would agree with the 55-200 as the lens. Mine is the kit 18-200.

My only other suggestion is to have a circular polarizing filter with you. In some instances it can significantly reduce the glare when shooting through glass. Sometimes manual focus is needed when AF is confused.

I will say that my best shooting days are when I go alone and can wait out the crowds and kids. Occasionally, the best shots are some of the kids and their amazement of the animals.

Good luck.

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