VTMatwood Loc: Displaced Vermonta in Central New Hampsha

I somewhat recently started shooting BIF as well... my recommendations based on my experience (and frustrations)...

Experiment with DOF... I found that I like shallow DOF with most of my BIF shots... but not too shallow or the wing tips are out of focus on large birds

Unless you want to get a sense of movement with blurred wings, shoot at 1/2000 or above

Manual mode with Auto ISO seems to work well. That way you can control both DOF and shutter speed.

Use a lens with image stabilization if possible when handholding, and if you are on a tripod, determine if your lens / camera combo requirs that image stabilization be turned off and follow those instructions.

Shoot RAW... birds move fast and backgrounds / lighting can change quickly... RAW simply gives you the widest latitude to PP your shots and increase your keeper rate.

If you start with small birds, prepare to be frustrated. They move wayyy to fast for me... so I decided to start with bigger, slower birds to see some positive results faster (than fits the "instant gratification" need that I have lol )

Get a field guide to birds (or find a good website that has the info for your region) so you know what you shot... I find it frustrating to get a great BIF capture and not know what you captured.

As others have said... go out, take shots, rinse, repeat

Have fun!

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You learn some comments you just ignore ...

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

It's up you. Certainly, you can test shutter priority on your next outing and see if it's more logical. There's a comment later I read pointing to 1/2000 to freeze motion. It certainly will, but that's a bit unnecessarily fast, certainly for the selection of examples in this post. It depends on the available light and the speed of action / type of bird in flight. I've had success of larger flying birds in manual and shutter at 1/1000. If you're familiar with aperture priority and you find some blur at the aperture / depth of field you desire, just use your exposure compensation dial. It will lengthen the shutter to compensate for a request for more light at the given aperture. In auto ISO, the ISO value will be adjusted to compensate.

Larryshuman

Its best if you use high shutter speeds( 1/1000, 2,000 etc). Also set WB to sunlight and set autoISO. Nikon help will help you thru that . (1-800-645-6678) I believe that your camera can use 9 focus points. Also if the lens is set at 600mm and close to subject the Depth of field is rather shallow, it gets better the farther away you are.

fourg1b2006 Loc: Long Island New York

You received some very good tips. Good luck on your next shoot.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

Thank you everyone for the suggestions....the park is close enough that I can go back at anytime .... will pick a day when I don't get snowed on..lol

Nalu Loc: Southern Arizona

You will find that getting successful shots with multiple birds in the frame will be very difficult if not impossible in most situations. Long lenses simply do not have sufficient DOF to get multiple birds in focus unless they are on the same plane. So, concentrate on isolated birds. For best results, shoot with the sun at your back or at least at a small angle. The best scenario is with both the sun and wind at your back. If the wind is blowing, the birds will face the wind. They don't like to get there feathers ruffled. Depending on the subject, high shutter speeds (+1,000th). Small apertures (f/8) can help but I have many, many successful shots at 5.6. If at all possible, keep the af point(s) you are using on the bird's eye. For moving subjects this, take a bunch of practice. And use the fastest burst mode your camera has to offer. I never take single shots, usually bursts of 3 to 5. Your keeper rate will go up and digital is free.

And learn how to hold your camera. On tripods with gimbal heads, shoot with your left arm over the lens and your forehead pressed against the back of the camera. This will help reduce vibration and help getting sharp images.

After all that, the closer to your subject, the better. Good luck and watch your wallet. This hobby can get quite expensive if you don't watch out.

3dees

I went out with my new Sigma 150-600 lens to try some bif pics. I'm new at this. no trouble with birds that are stationary but the problem is how to get a flying bird in the viewfinder. hand holding this lens isn't as bad as I thought it would be in my 68 year old hands, but I just can't seem to lock in a bird that is already flying. any tips? if and when I get one in the viewfinder, how do you focus on an eye?

Nalu Loc: Southern Arizona

I think when one refers to focusing on an eye we are referring to stationary birds, although they are seldom stationary. If you are talking bif, don't even think about it. Just getting a bird in the frame in flight is an achievement in itself. Just attempt it get a focal point on the bird. A little additional dof is probably a good suggestion here as well. Maybe f/8.

Nalu Loc: Southern Arizona

Also, with the advantage of your zoom, you can start wide then zoom in to frame. Remember, most BIF phographers shoot to get the bird in the frame first then crop for composition.

TomV Loc: Annapolis, Maryland

I agree with most of your hints. No way that draping yourself on the camera will help with vibration. That is a waste of an expensive tripod.

Nalu Loc: Southern Arizona

re using you body to help reduce vibration, imo you couldn't be more wrong. But, do what you like. Look at the pros on iTunes and see how they do it.

Larryshuman

I use a Nikon D810 on Nikon's 600mmF:4 G VR which are mounted on Kirk Enterprise's G-1 gimbal head. I put my left hand on tilt portion of the head, I put my forehead and right eye up against the eye piece and steady the lens. Good to great technique in required to achieve stunning results. If you doubt this then I'll upload some of the eagles I shot last weekend and you can see for yourself. In fact we had this exact discussion Sunday. When your shooting flying eagles that are flying off the nest you have to be looking thru the lens in order to correctly pan the rig with the eagle. The only utube vid's that I'll watch are Steve Perry's, all the rest are not worth my time.