jcboy3

I use collapsible reflectors for a uniform background. White, grey, or black are good neutral backgrounds. Black is the hardest to get right; most collapsible reflectors have a somewhat shiny black, which is not good for a background (they are, after all, a reflector).

Flexfill (the original collapsible reflector) make a very good black absorber. Profoto is also good. These are expensive.

What I did was go to a fabric store and find a good non-reflective black velveteen material; a yard is sufficient. I then took a cheap collapsible white reflector (32") and wrapped it with the black material (I actually let it drape so the bottom is squared off).

I use a reflector holder to hold it (I took an Avenger and cut it down so it fits in my camera bag). A clamp on a free standing monopod or small tripod can hold it in place behind the flowers.

For lighting, I highly recommend using a flash with remote radio TTL trigger. Lots of brands. You should have one. I use Nissin, they were the first to support Olympus/Panasonic. A remote flash will let you get the light off camera to the side, or from behind.

Finally, I sometimes use an Interfit on-camera 22" reflector. This is a reflector with a hole in the middle; it will reflect light back onto the subject. Great if using a backlight strobe to get fill.

I like using monopods with feet; they don't take a lot of floor space and fit well into cramped quarters. One for the background, one for the flash. Hand hold the camera.

CPR Loc: Nature Coast of Florida

The black card works well. In this area the best place to go is The Home Depot. They have the plants more spread out and more varieties of flowers, plants and cactus of many types.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

you can make a black background by choosing to light the subject and underexpose the background like this. No need to buy anything, whatever is not lit comes out black.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO9Zy8m3cxw

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

This guy used radio triggers, light stand, collapsed umbrella

You'd have to buy something to use his method.

BTW, this is exactly what I did with the flowers were I just used lighting to illuminate the flowers.

TN. Photo taker

I bought a piece of blacked for flower back drop from Amazon. It was very inexpensive.

TN. Photo taker

I meant to say “black velvet”

SAVH Loc: La Jolla, CA

I love the look of the black background for pictures of flowers and have been trying to duplicate it myself using black cloth or something behind the flower without success. As I am just beginning to work with LR and PS could someone point me in the right direction as to what is meant by "creating a mask?" I'm guessing it has something to do with layers which I don't know about yet but I thought layers came in PS and not in LR. Obviously, I have a lot to learn. Thanks.

jcboy3

The secret to getting a black background is the following:

1. Use a black material that has no sheen; black velvet or black velveteen.

2. Place it well behind the flower, with no direct light shining on it.

3. Use additional light on the flower, but be sure that the light is not directed toward the background (so do not use on-camera flash).

You can darken the background in LR with an adjustment brush, use auto mask to avoid darkening the flower itself. Put some negative saturation on the brush as well.

In PS, you use a selection mask to select the flower, invert it, and then use an adjustment mask to darken.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Here's how it's done in Photoshop:

https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/masking-layers.html

And here's how it's done in On1 Perfect Mask:

https://www.on1.com/blog/tag/masking-compositing/

https://www.on1.com/blog/on1-workflow-selections-masking-layering/

Essentially the process is to make a selection, either by selecting the background or the subject - depending on how busy the background is - sometimes selecting a subject with strong color and contrast is easier, then inverting it. I find On1 produces a better looking mask quicker than Photoshop, but it is helpful to be able to do it both ways. Sometimes temporarily kicking up the contrast, brightness, or saturation can help you make a cleaner selection, then you can always return the image to correct balance once you've defined the selection for the mask.

I've used the black background in the past, and it is something that is hard to do by yourself. You can do the methods I described, either entirely within software, or with careful strong sidelighting. The only drawback with side light is that to make it work you need to have the speedlight very close, and because of the inverse square law, the amount of light diminishes considerably the further away from the light some parts of the flower are. If you are looking for a dramatic look, that may work very well. But if you are looking for more options and control over your lighting, the masking method can provide that.