OlinBost Loc: Marietta, Ga.

I have a couple of lens balled Macro and one that I tried was really light sensitive. Then I remembered that I had a set of extension tubes that I have never tried. I got one of my standard lens and used extension #1. I had to set all setting to manual but I was able to get great results for a first time user.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

There are no "bad" macro lenses. As noted, zooms labeled "Macro" are not true macro flat field macro lenses but simply close-focusing lenses. I have 8 different true macro lenses from 55 to 180mm (macro is my niche) in AF and MF iterations. While I have an FF camera, I don't use my macro lenses on it as the smaller angle of view on my DX format means less cropping of the image (many of which are a lot smaller than the DX format size). Good advice above as to what focal length to use. Short focal length macro lenses are good for static subjects and copy work as the distance between the front of the lens & the subject is minimal and that scares away insects and makes it difficult to light your subjects. The longer focal lengths (150-200mm) allow you more distance, but they are lots bigger, more expensive and have an even shallower depth of field ( which is minuscule when shooting true macro). My go-to macro lens is an older manual focus (MF) 105mm F2.8 from the mid 1980's. The closer you get to life-size, the less effective both autofocusing and vibration control become. It's easier to turn both off and shoot manually. Many will tell you to get a good tripod. I rarely use a tripod unless it's a static subject, I'm stacking (seldom) or I'm in a studio environment. A ring or softbox equipped speedlight is a better investment. The short duration of the flash will stop any movement, be it you own or your subjects, and it also allows you to stop down your lens (which expands the depth of field). That older 105 Nikkor you have sounds like the superb portrait lens (F2.5) and it really won't work for macro. BTW, most all of the macro shots on my Flickr stream are handheld images except for some of the floral shots... A side note, many of the older macro lenses only went to half life size and required a tube or filter to get to life size...

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Nikon has an old 105mm f2.5 AI that has superb sharpness and that is a medium tele, not a macro. Nikon also makes the 105mm f2.8 Micro Nikkor which is an excellent macro lens. Nikon has made several of those Micro Nikkor over the years. I have the 105mm f4 from the late 70' or early 80's which is also of excellent optical quality.
You cannot go wrong with any of those lenses.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

Watched a great tutorial on B&H's website for macro options. A reversing adapter would be a good start. A set of closeup lenses that screw onto the front of your lens like a filter are OK but have edge quality issues. The more expensive the better. Spendy ones are about $80 for a set of three. Extension tubes are a good choice but there's loss of light. Then there's macros for the best quality and versatility. Also figure on tripod, manual focus, accessory lighting, and a focusing rail.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

I recently acquired a Lester A. Dine 105mm f2.8 which is a 1:1 macro with the ring flash and it has far exceeded my expectations. The clarity and color rendition are superb and it is built like a tank. I use it on my Nikon D810. They are branded under several names and you can find them on Ebay and many other on-line camera gear sources. I paid $350 for the lens and the flash which is made for the lens (52mm). It is a manual focus which is basically what is used in ever so shallow focus of macro photography.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

That's what I use....I have 3 copies of the lens (one branded Vivitar) and 4 copies of the (Sunpak made) ring/point light. BTW, I changed out the module on those units to the single pin version. The most I paid per lens has been $200 and $50 max on the ring/point lights. I also have a Nissin made ring/point light but I prefer the Sunpak made one.

art pear Loc: North Dakota

I have the Tokina 100mm and the Nikon 105mm. I see really no difference other than price. I would buy the Tokina.

JPL

If you are talking about a true macro lens this here would be a very good option.
http://photorumors.com/2018/03/07/venus-optics-laowa-25mm-f-2-8-2-5-5x-ultra-macro-lens-officially-announced/

3dees

there are many ways to do macro from cheap to expensive. for me on my D7200 the perfect lens is my Sigma 150mm macro. more reach on your ff camera. has the tri-pod collar which can be removed for hand held though I leave it on full time. it's actually hard to find a bad macro.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Yes you can get very good results with a Venus/Laowa. However you will be right on top of your subject when shooting at 5x. So it better be dead or inert. The combination of 25mm and 5x kills the minimum working distance.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Isn't it also a pre-set design? Focus and compose wide open & then stop down to meter & shoot?

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

There are MANY different macro lenses to choose among....

For someone who doesn't have a macro lens and wants one that can be most easily used and might serve in most situations, I recommend a 90mm, 100mm or 105mm (regardless if camera is full frame or crop). There are shorter focal length macro lenses, which can be more compact but put you closer to your subject and that can be a problem with live critters that are shy, sting or bite! It also may cause you to cast a shadow over your subject. There also are longer focal length macro lenses with give you greater working distance and might be helpful with some subjects, but are more difficult to hold steady, render shallower depth of field that force you to stop the lens down more, and are more likely to require a tripod or at least a monopod.

Nikon themselves has made any number of fine macro lenses (yes, they call them "Micro"). Don't confuse their 105mm Micro Nikkor with the non-micro 105mm portrait lens, though. Different lenses for different purposes. If you want to shoot macro, get the Micro.

There also are a number of excellent third party macro lenses...

Tamron SP AF 90mm.... currently two models: a cheaper one without stabilization, with slower type of auto focus drive and not internal focusing, so it extends a lot longer when focused closer. The other more expensive version has VC stabilization, faster USD focus drive and is IF (internal focusing).

Tokina AT-X Pro 100mm... one of the least expensive. In the Nikon mount version, this lens DOES NOT have a built in AF motor. It relies upon the camera having an in-body focus drive motor, which more entry-level Nikon don't have. Check if you camera does or not. This lens doesn't have stabilization and is not IF.

Sigma 105mm OS HSM.... one of the most expensive. It's very similar to the Micro-Nikkor 105mm AF-S VR, may or may not be less expensive.

There are also many excellent, vintage, manual focus macro lenses that might work fine and cost less bought used. Most are fully capable of making fine images... but will be slower to work with since they don't have autofocus. Most also will be manual aperture control only, too. With macro you'll often need to stop down for more depth of field, and doing so with strictly manual aperture lenses will dim down your viewfinder a lot, making manual focusing more difficult. (Note: Live View might be helpful in this case.)

Have fun shopping!

jbmauser Loc: Roanoke, VA

You can get both wants satisfied with a used Manual Kiron / Lester Dine Macro 105mm Cult lens. You can find them on eBay and sometimes on KEH. Sharp lens all metal construction. If you go to the Macro section here at the hog you will see examples of great work as there are many photographers who shoot with this lens.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Most of the older manual focus lenses for Nikon have auto aperture, meaning they hold the aperture open for focus & composition and close down to the selected taking aperture when the shutter is tripped. Autofocus isn't recommended when shooting macro, especially when you go past half life-size... He has a full frame Nikon DSLR and as such, it has a built-in focus motor so none is needed in the lens.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

I’m not sure, but I think so. I have another one that is 20mm 4x-4.5x. Extremely difficult to use. Basically the MWD is around 2”. Not ideal for lighting and difficult to adjust critical focus.