Is it me, the body, the lens or the combination???
Feb 22, 2018 16:36:10 #
@the OP
Problem is, you are NOT testing you camera/lens under controlled conditions as I and others have suggested here.
If you keep shooting out of the window with inadequate support or proper camera holding strategies, shooting distant rapidly moving subjects, you re using the "dog chasing his own tail" method of camera and lens assessment.
Even if you were to buy a top-of-the line full frame body and a multi-thousand dollar prime telephoto lens or outrageously expensive zoom, if you did not focus precisely, use an insufficient shutter speed to avoid motion blur and did not support the camera properly, the results would still be disappointing. So...bolt the camera down rock steady, focus carefully in both manual and in autofocus modes, and shoot a stationary detailed object just to make certain the camera is working correctly. Make exposures at each f/stop and see which one seems to result in the sharpest image. If the camera is working normally then your lack of sharpness in some of you images is due to faulty technique.
As far as action stopping and avoidance of camera movement , one rule of thumb is to use shutter speed that is the same NUMBER as the focal length or higher. A 200mm zoom setting requires a shutter speed of 1/200 sec or more. The distance from the subject and the angle at which the subject is moving in relation to the camera position factors in as well. I will post a chart that will help you understand that concept.
If after testing and improving your technique, if you are still dissatisfied with the performance of you equipment you may want to upgrade but my advice is to upgrade you technique first before laying out the additional cash.
I mentioned what my repair guy told me about folks who thought their gear was faulty and it turned out it was their technique. I can ell you that I have purchased a ton of second hand but like new high end gear at very reasonable prices form folks who just kept upgrading their gear in the hopes of getting better results. The dealers were telling them to buy more costly lenses, large format cameras- all to no avail.
There is no doubt that more expensive, top-of-the-line glass will perform better than a so-called kit lenses, however, you modern day kit lens is not exactly made of the bottom of a shot glass and should yield decent results.
Also- take it form an old-timer- many of today's cameras have just too many bells, whistles and automation. There is nothing wrong with the convenience and some of the high tech features but the tend to make many photographers stray away from good solid camera handling and image management. Every time I come on to this site, I read about photographers using all of theses newfangled programs and experiencing difficulties and rather than switching into manual modes and trying to troubleshoot the issue, they continue to fiddle around with plus and minus compensations, turn on stabilization features, which I suspect may somehow affect image quality in another way and again, end up chasing their tails.
Think about it- a camera has only three essential controls; focus, aperture and shutter speed. Once you master those, you got it made, all the rest is icing on the cake!
Check out the chart in the next reply box. It's for normal lenses but there is some math at the bottom of the page for longer focal lengths. It will give you the general idea- handy for shooting wildlife and sports.
Good luck and kindest regards.
Problem is, you are NOT testing you camera/lens under controlled conditions as I and others have suggested here.
If you keep shooting out of the window with inadequate support or proper camera holding strategies, shooting distant rapidly moving subjects, you re using the "dog chasing his own tail" method of camera and lens assessment.
Even if you were to buy a top-of-the line full frame body and a multi-thousand dollar prime telephoto lens or outrageously expensive zoom, if you did not focus precisely, use an insufficient shutter speed to avoid motion blur and did not support the camera properly, the results would still be disappointing. So...bolt the camera down rock steady, focus carefully in both manual and in autofocus modes, and shoot a stationary detailed object just to make certain the camera is working correctly. Make exposures at each f/stop and see which one seems to result in the sharpest image. If the camera is working normally then your lack of sharpness in some of you images is due to faulty technique.
As far as action stopping and avoidance of camera movement , one rule of thumb is to use shutter speed that is the same NUMBER as the focal length or higher. A 200mm zoom setting requires a shutter speed of 1/200 sec or more. The distance from the subject and the angle at which the subject is moving in relation to the camera position factors in as well. I will post a chart that will help you understand that concept.
If after testing and improving your technique, if you are still dissatisfied with the performance of you equipment you may want to upgrade but my advice is to upgrade you technique first before laying out the additional cash.
I mentioned what my repair guy told me about folks who thought their gear was faulty and it turned out it was their technique. I can ell you that I have purchased a ton of second hand but like new high end gear at very reasonable prices form folks who just kept upgrading their gear in the hopes of getting better results. The dealers were telling them to buy more costly lenses, large format cameras- all to no avail.
There is no doubt that more expensive, top-of-the-line glass will perform better than a so-called kit lenses, however, you modern day kit lens is not exactly made of the bottom of a shot glass and should yield decent results.
Also- take it form an old-timer- many of today's cameras have just too many bells, whistles and automation. There is nothing wrong with the convenience and some of the high tech features but the tend to make many photographers stray away from good solid camera handling and image management. Every time I come on to this site, I read about photographers using all of theses newfangled programs and experiencing difficulties and rather than switching into manual modes and trying to troubleshoot the issue, they continue to fiddle around with plus and minus compensations, turn on stabilization features, which I suspect may somehow affect image quality in another way and again, end up chasing their tails.
Think about it- a camera has only three essential controls; focus, aperture and shutter speed. Once you master those, you got it made, all the rest is icing on the cake!
Check out the chart in the next reply box. It's for normal lenses but there is some math at the bottom of the page for longer focal lengths. It will give you the general idea- handy for shooting wildlife and sports.
Good luck and kindest regards.
Feb 22, 2018 16:38:11 #
Feb 22, 2018 17:02:00 #
Feb 22, 2018 17:05:39 #
I would suggest you spend $16, and get one of the best books I've read specific to the Nikon autofocus system.
It's over 400 pages (lots of photos/examples) in an easy to read format.
Steve Perry also has a good youtube channel with lots of info as well.
You can order the book at.
https://backcountrygallery.com/secrets-nikon-autofocus-system/
He has a lot of "camera specific" info as well. I got a lot more out of it than the popular "understanding exposure" that so many recommend here.
Just FYI.....I don't work for him, and never met the guy. I just appreciate well written books on photography. (I'm an "information geek")
bk
It's over 400 pages (lots of photos/examples) in an easy to read format.
Steve Perry also has a good youtube channel with lots of info as well.
You can order the book at.
https://backcountrygallery.com/secrets-nikon-autofocus-system/
He has a lot of "camera specific" info as well. I got a lot more out of it than the popular "understanding exposure" that so many recommend here.
Just FYI.....I don't work for him, and never met the guy. I just appreciate well written books on photography. (I'm an "information geek")
bk
Feb 22, 2018 19:21:47 #
The pic of the wolves is nice, but it looks like to me the sharpest focus is on the tail of the "left wolf", not the faces. Either your focal point is not quite right or your camera-lens combination is "back-focusing", but I'd guess its just not getting a single focal point on the face of one of the wolves.
Feb 22, 2018 22:03:15 #
Why do you take photographs? If you are happy with the results, and from what I see here, you should, why even consider spending top dollar? The marginal improvement will likely not be worth it. There are was to improve perhaps, using a faster shutter speed and a tripod may help.
Feb 22, 2018 22:03:22 #
Why do you take photographs? If you are happy with the results, and from what I see here, you should, why even consider spending top dollar? The marginal improvement will likely not be worth it. There are was to improve perhaps, using a faster shutter speed and a tripod may help.
Feb 23, 2018 01:13:10 #
inclinerr
Loc: South Carolina, United States
paulrph1 wrote:
Looks like a lack of basic understanding. Need to go back to the drawing board.
I have the D3400 with the kit lens 18-55mm and the 70-300mm lens. Love the camera and I have been using it for 7 months. It is my first DSLR. In the beginning I had the same issues as he had. But through practice practice practice and reading the manual helped improve my photos by 1000%. Best book I found for the D3400 is "The D3400 For Dummies". Great for cross reference and simple explanation of how why the camera works. As my Dad once said, "A carpenter is only as good as his tools. All the fanciest most expensive tools in the world are no good to you if you don't know how to use them. " OK so enough preaching and on to showing some results.
Feb 23, 2018 05:12:46 #
they all look good to me, at best you might up the iso and shutter speed.
Feb 23, 2018 05:40:47 #
Feb 23, 2018 06:37:52 #
swartfort wrote:
My gut tells me that I was asking too much of my N... (show quote)
I don't know about your GAS, but in all but the first frame, there is a part of the image that is in sharp focus, and part that is not. That could mean the autofocus has a problem, but is likelier due to aiming the focal point slightly off the part of the image you need/want to be in sharp focus--e.g., the head.
Feb 23, 2018 07:09:37 #
You’re photos are great. Don’t be hard on your self. Monopod and highest shutter speed - and don’t forget to tell the birds and squirrels to sit quietly.
Feb 23, 2018 07:18:48 #
+1 on the Steve Perry book - it's very detailed and will take some time to read and process everything, but definitely worth the time and effort.
Feb 23, 2018 08:18:05 #
genocolo
Loc: Vail and Gasparilla Island
The first squirrel is terrific. The others, not so much if you are looking for perfect.
Feb 23, 2018 08:45:08 #
Single point focus and increase speed. If you are using single point focus, check your focus against something inside to check for front focusing.
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