tcthome Loc: NJ

Ps ,thanks for the links everyone.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Yes, that would give you a basic starting point. Then you can adjust exposure from there. I assume your DSLR is using 1/3 or perhaps 1/2 stop adjustments. If you need faster shutter speed you can increase it by an amount and decrease aperture by the same amount for example. You can find tables that you can print out or work on memorizing for shutter speeds, apertures and ISO on the internet. You can also find the old shooting guide settings that Kodak used to print inside each film box for basic settings under different lighting conditions. You can also get an inexpensive handheld light meter New or used and learn how to use it. There are YouTube videos on using them and they can be very useful.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

ELNikkor

Wear a ball cap.

AndyT Loc: Hampstead, New Hampshire

Buy a Fuji X-T2. Live view let's you see your exposure in the viewfinder before you shoot, and review your photos in the viewfinder as well.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

This is how I deal with bright light at my side or behind me.

1) I find an exposure that will work while under a tree or in the shadow of a building and take my readings of the sunlit scenes there. I use the spot meter setting to measure the brightest area of the scene in which I want to retain detail in, and set the camera to +1.3 stops. Shooting for highlights in this fashion works in nearly all situations, and is based on the zone system.

2) At ISO 100, the correct exposure is usually F16 at 1/125 for typical scenes, or 1/250 if you are at the beach or shooting in snow with a clear blue cloudless sky. If the sunlight is a little hazy, F16 and 1/60 should work.

You may want to familiarize yourself with EV values and charts that show EV values for typical scenes.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value

http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm

If you have really bright light that may enter the viewfinder, you will need to shade it from the light - otherwise light will enter the sensor area and cause streaking, similar to the old days when your film got "fogged." Sometimes creative types will use this effect to lend an antique look to the image. I'd rather avoid it while taking the picture and add that effect in post processing. Wearing a wide-brimmed hat really minimizes this, btw. I use a Tilley LTM2 hat.

rts2568

A rubber eyepiece - use it all the time as part of your camera. Always remember that most DSLR & SLR cameras, top of the range and like yours, have always had problems with built in meters where light shines directly into the eyepiece from a bright surround, or where the light - particularly a bright source like the sun, reflects off your cheek. You may not have this problem if you are black skinned and female with long black hair: that however is luck by birth.
There are hoods out there to use with the shading of the LCD. Personally I find them too awkward and bulky and have never used one satisfactorily - they are a bit like the nuisance larger lens hoods I have and leave at home. My method is a homemade one, a Black cloth to put over my head and camera, like Photographers used in the days of plate cameras (frosted screens instead of LCDs but with the similar problems -DSLR (LV) Live View etc). A cloth like this is easily packed and carried etc and, has often been used as a lens hood replacement too.

PeterBergh

A cheap and simple but practical way to solve the problem (for stationary subjects such as landscapes) is to get a focusing cloth. I mainly do landscapes and they don't move around a lot. A focusing cloth works wonders in these situations.

rts2568

Good one Mac. Didn't think of that in the heat of the moment but I do the same with good results and having a shaved head, that brim also helps to prevent sunburn/skin cancer etc.

Fotoserj Loc: St calixte Qc Ca

Give a try to a wide bream hat, I used Tilley’s and work good for me

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

I like the first comments made but I found the hoods kept falling apart or too much of a pain to use.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

The only thing I find a problem with hats or caps is that they interfere with my camera in vertical mode, but I also have a vertical grip. If you don't shoot vertical much you will be fine. I seem to always have my cap on backwards due to that or because the wind is trying to take it off my melon... Exhaust from Blower cars will also send it flying if you are not paying attention...LOL

tomad Loc: North Carolina

towwinds bear has given the best solution.

I'm an eyeglass wearer and that's exactly what I do... you can put a keeper string on your glasses that lets them hang around your neck and just drop them to that position whenever you are taking a photo.

Tomfl101 Loc: Mount Airy, MD

You can use your LCD screen like an old fashioned hand held meter. Set your camera to manual mode, point the camera toward the scene and adjust shutter or aperture until centered reading is achieved. You wont get pinpoint accuracy since you can't be certain of exactly what the camera is pointed to but it will be close enough for most applications.

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

I was thinking the same. Those functions are there for a reason. Being tethered to any setting is foolish. There are even times when I use (gasp) Auto.

twowindsbear

Thank you for your confirmation