Better group portrait lens.
John Howard
Loc: SW Florida and Blue Ridge Mountains of NC.
I have been asked to shoot a portrait is a group of 10 women in a house with limited distance due to room size. I estimate that I will need at least a 50mm wide lens. I have a 24-70 and a 24-120, both Nikon. Figure the speed of 2.8 is not needed because I will need some DoF for the group. Have some natural light thru some windows. Might bounce some remote flash (I only have one). Any recommendations as to the better of the two lenses (or just use a 50mm). I know just enough to stand/sit the group in an arch to manage the distance and focus.
I would not use a 50 mm. With a Dx camera, your effective focal length is 75mm. With an Fx, it's 50mm, but that is not applicable for a room with limited distance. I've done something similar, and the 24-70 is a much better choice. Put your strobe on your hotshoe, tilt the flash head up, and attach a white #10 business envelope to use as a bounce card. Try it.
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
I would not use a 50 mm. With a Dx camera, your effective focal length is 75mm. With an Fx, it's 50mm, but that is not applicable for a room with limited distance. I've done something similar, and the 24-70 is a much better choice. Put your strobe on your hotshoe, tilt the flash head up, and attach a white #10 business envelope to use as a bounce card. Try it.
I am not sure where you had the idea that he is using a DX camera with FX lenses...
John Howard wrote:
I have been asked to shoot a portrait is a group of 10 women in a house with limited distance due to room size. I estimate that I will need at least a 50mm wide lens. I have a 24-70 and a 24-120, both Nikon. Figure the speed of 2.8 is not needed because I will need some DoF for the group. Have some natural light thru some windows. Might bounce some remote flash (I only have one). Any recommendations as to the better of the two lenses (or just use a 50mm). I know just enough to stand/sit the group in an arch to manage the distance and focus.
I have been asked to shoot a portrait is a group o... (
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John, you need to use your 24-70 to photograph those 10 women in a limited size room.
BHC
Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
Rongnongno wrote:
I am not sure where you had the idea that he is using a DX camera with FX lenses...
I was just getting ready to ask. Big difference!
Rongnongno wrote:
I am not sure where you had the idea that he is using a DX camera with FX lenses...
Looking at previous posts, the OP has a D810.
That’s a full frame camera.
No question, the 24-70 would be my choice.
24-70mm, try to utilize the natural light as much as possible.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
John Howard wrote:
I have been asked to shoot a portrait is a group of 10 women in a house with limited distance due to room size. I estimate that I will need at least a 50mm wide lens. I have a 24-70 and a 24-120, both Nikon. Figure the speed of 2.8 is not needed because I will need some DoF for the group. Have some natural light thru some windows. Might bounce some remote flash (I only have one). Any recommendations as to the better of the two lenses (or just use a 50mm). I know just enough to stand/sit the group in an arch to manage the distance and focus.
I have been asked to shoot a portrait is a group o... (
show quote)
John, I've done this a number of times. Using a wide angle lens causes volume deformation that is difficult to correct in post processing. So I would use the 50mm or the 24-70 - both will work, and the 24-70 will be sharper at F5.6 or F8.
http://www.dxo.com/us/photography/tutorials/understanding-volume-deformationYou will be lynched by the women at the edges of the composition.
I am all for using a flash, but I would not rely on a small reflector. I would turn the head to the side or to the rear, and bounce off a wall and/or ceiling. A light pointed directly at a subject from the camera's point of view provides the look similar to what paparazzi get. You have a wonderful opportunity to do much more. If you are in a room that has deeply colored walls, then you might want to consider a very large bounce surface, like a piece of rigid insulation (4x8, but you can fold it in half to manage it). The quality of light you will get will be extremely flattering.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJO9IZPQnKMYou can always use the cheap folding reflectors you can get on eBay for not too much money. But you'd need more than one, and that would require some way to support them.
I like the look of catchlights in the eyes, which you generally lose when you use a large bounce surface. The solution is to add a small, very low power flash, set at it's lowest power, attached to a bracket to get it away from the optical axis (to eliminate red-eye).
An eye-lighter reflector will add some interest to the eyes, and some beautiful catchlights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmUreeMGxn0You will be happy with the results. And you will avoid the lynching.
Gene51 wrote:
John, I've done this a number of times. Using a wide angle lens causes volume deformation that is difficult to correct in post processing. So I would use the 50mm or the 24-70 - both will work, and the 24-70 will be sharper at F5.6 or F8.
http://www.dxo.com/us/photography/tutorials/understanding-volume-deformationYou will be lynched by the women at the edges of the composition.
I am all for using a flash, but I would not rely on a small reflector. I would turn the head to the side or to the rear, and bounce off a wall and/or ceiling. A light pointed directly at a subject from the camera's point of view provides the look similar to what paparazzi get. You have a wonderful opportunity to do much more. If you are in a room that has deeply colored walls, then you might want to consider a very large bounce surface, like a piece of rigid insulation (4x8, but you can fold it in half to manage it). The quality of light you will get will be extremely flattering.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJO9IZPQnKMYou can always use the cheap folding reflectors you can get on eBay for not too much money. But you'd need more than one, and that would require some way to support them.
I like the look of catchlights in the eyes, which you generally lose when you use a large bounce surface. The solution is to add a small, very low power flash, set at it's lowest power, attached to a bracket to get it away from the optical axis (to eliminate red-eye).
An eye-lighter reflector will add some interest to the eyes, and some beautiful catchlights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmUreeMGxn0You will be happy with the results. And you will avoid the lynching.
John, I've done this a number of times. Using a wi... (
show quote)
Critical if you expect return engagements....
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
John Howard wrote:
I have been asked to shoot a portrait is a group of 10 women in a house with limited distance due to room size. I estimate that I will need at least a 50mm wide lens. I have a 24-70 and a 24-120, both Nikon. Figure the speed of 2.8 is not needed because I will need some DoF for the group. Have some natural light thru some windows. Might bounce some remote flash (I only have one). Any recommendations as to the better of the two lenses (or just use a 50mm). I know just enough to stand/sit the group in an arch to manage the distance and focus.
I have been asked to shoot a portrait is a group o... (
show quote)
I would use the 24-70 and bounce your flash up and behind you. DOF depends on how deep your women pose. I would think f5.6 should give you the reach you need.
As others have already stated, I'd think that you would find it difficult to get the entire group with the 50 mm prime, even on a full frame sensor. On a crop sensor it's gong to be nearly impossible. At least to me, the 24-70 mm sounds like the better choice on either type camera. Good luck and good shooting to all.
If you shoot at 24mm due to limited space, the women on the ends will look extra wide with skewed heads.
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