fourlocks wrote:
Okay here's a rather sophomoric question I'm hoping there's an easy answer for. I like having a circular polarizer on my Nikon (18 - 200mm lens) but I also want to keep the lens hood on. Trouble is, once the lens hood snaps into place, it's impossible to rotate the polarizer because the hood covers the filter's rotating ring. Am I missing some easy way around this or do I have to choose one or the other?
1. Always use the hood. They're intended for use 100% of the time.
2. Remove the circular polarizer, then only re-install and use it when it actually will serve it's purpose reducing reflections, deepening the blue sky, etc. Depending upon what you photograph, a C-Pol is probably appropriate to use about 20 or 25% of the time, at most. Maybe a lot less. Even though it's the most useful of filters in the age of digital photography, there are many times when a C-Pol SHOULDN'T be used. For example, they absorb a lot of light... one to two stops worth. So leaving one on a lens too much.... particularly a telephoto that's already only f/5.6 at best... can make you use too slow shutter speeds and/or too high an ISO. Another example, when directly shooting a sunset or sunrise (or other extremely strong light source) NO FILTER should be used. In that situation, even the very best, multi-coated layers of glass will increase flare, reducing contrast and color saturation. And because a C-Pol has multiple layers of glass, it's one of the worst of all to use when photographing a sunrise/sunset or similar.
3. When using the C-Pol and needing to adjust the polarizer, temporarily remove the hood. Then replace the hood to take the photo.
A round lens hood that screws into the front of the filter is an option... allowing the entire assembly to be rotated to adjust the filter... BUT NOT IN THIS CASE. With a very wide ranging (10X +), "do-everything-even-if-none-of-it-particularly-well" zoom like an 18-200mm, you'd have to use a round hood that matches the 18mm end and does a terrible job shading the 200mm end of the range. A screw-in lens hood will usually work best with a prime instead of a zoom.... or with a telephoto to telephoto zoom like a 70-200, 100-400, etc. Screw-in hoods also usually don't reverse over a lens for convenient storage the way most bayonet mount hoods do. And, metal hoods in particular don't do as good job protecting a lens, transfer more of the shock of a drop or bump directly to the barrel of the lens... where a high impact plastic hood can absorb some of the shock and might even break away in worst cases.
It may be possible to cut a small "window" in the underside of the hood, to be able to rotate the filter. HOWEVER, keep in mind that any time you re-postion the camera and lens to vertical/portrait orientation, any window cut into the hood will no longer be on the underside, so keep it small. Lens hoods designed with this type of window usually have a sliding "door" or cover of some sort for the little window. (Otherwise I don't see much point citing Pentax and Sony lenses... which don't help the OP very much. Is he supposed to dump his Nikon gear and change brands?
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