Watch out for that AUTO ISO setting.
Oct 30, 2017 13:02:18 #
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
So true. Real dark skies are about 4 - 5 hours North and South-East away from Los Angeles.
Yes, here in Corona our nights are so light I have tried to get silhouettes of trees to combine with moon shots and my 6D was actually getting muddy color. I have seen it darker at noon under heavy clouds in a driving typhoon rain in Vietnam than it is here on a moonlit night.
Oct 30, 2017 13:41:02 #
Noise comes in with the conversion of the signal in the analog to digital convertor. True the data is represented as digits but it is not read by the sensor as digits. Noise is also introduced by the electronic circuitry and the amplification of the signals as well as heat that can build up in the electronics as in a very long exposure. I am sure there are many many discussions and videos regarding this topic on the web. And yes you can see the noise in Lightroom, Photoshop or any of many other photo processing softwares.
Best,
Todd Ferguson
Best,
Todd Ferguson
John_F wrote:
Lots of ISO noise posts over the months, so what is noise, how do ya know ya got it. Do you open Photoshop and magnify until you get pixelation and you think too soon. As a sensor provides a stream of binary digits, 0 & 1, which can be expressed as a decimal number. Is this decimal number muliplied by 2 if you double the ISO and then reexpressed as binary digits. Where does the noise come in?
Oct 30, 2017 13:44:42 #
larrylee wrote:
Just a heads up note... br About a week ago, I too... (show quote)
I don't have to worry about it, because I never use AUTO ISO and my camera does not set itself!
Oct 30, 2017 13:56:40 #
For me, the combination of auto ISO and manual mode presents a real learning opportunity. Using the "sunny 16" method of estimating exposure, then comparing the camera's ISO selection with my estimated ISO is very educational.
bob
bob
Oct 30, 2017 13:59:27 #
larrylee wrote:
Just a heads up note... br About a week ago, I too... (show quote)
If not for the auto ISO setting you would have had severe under exposure or missed the shots entirely.
I guess you don't believe in noise reduction. I have no problem getting excellent results with auto ISO... look at some of my bird posts. Nearly all of them have some lever of noise reduction.
Oct 30, 2017 14:04:26 #
Kozan
Loc: Trenton Tennessee
For the life of me, I don't understand how a "professional" photographer could be taking indoor pictures and not use a flash. It doesn't sound like the photographer was very good.
It's all about lighting control. And it is up to the photographer to determine the appropriate lighting. I use flash inside and outside. For outside shots, I usually start around -1EV for the ambient light, then adjust the flash for a pleasing portrait. My camera is usually on 1/60s at f/11. The flash is on TTL with a large bounce card.
Stan (Kozan)
It's all about lighting control. And it is up to the photographer to determine the appropriate lighting. I use flash inside and outside. For outside shots, I usually start around -1EV for the ambient light, then adjust the flash for a pleasing portrait. My camera is usually on 1/60s at f/11. The flash is on TTL with a large bounce card.
Stan (Kozan)
Oct 30, 2017 14:16:16 #
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
All the time. Can you imagine anything more intrusive during a wedding than a flash popping all over the place?
Yes, having to explain why the images didn't come out!!!
SS
Oct 30, 2017 14:50:29 #
TriX wrote:
Auto ISO can be very useful. In fact, there was a ... (show quote)
And from my involvement in that thread, I became more convinced than ever in the importance of understanding the ability of your camera to handle high ISO values gracefully and the value of looking forward at the ability of a camera to handle high ISO values gracefully before purchasing the camera.
Oct 30, 2017 18:32:25 #
From previous experience, I have a notion that metering was a culprit, too. Auto anything is troubling, but especially ISO, as I've found out it's a crap shoot. I find that on my Canons I set a maximum ISO in the menu according to the most common acceptable ISO of each, so I must go back into the menu if I want it higher. On the 7D it's 800 and the 5D Mark III it's 3200. Being from the "old school", I my shoot in aperture priority setting an appropriate ISO or manual mode, then check the LCD histogram, adjust as needed and take bracketed exposures. You can't shoot too many frames, but you can shoot too few. You learned by experience and you can use it now to change the next for the better. There's no final destination, my friend it's a journey and we're the traveler's.
larrylee wrote:
Just a heads up note... br About a week ago, I too... (show quote)
Oct 30, 2017 21:01:40 #
SharpShooter wrote:
Yes, having to explain why the images didn't come out!!!
SS
SS
Lol.
To be fair....it is about expectation setting. I shot my last weddding in what amounts to a cave. Reviewed with the client what she can expect in yerms of image quality. Showed her examples of what to expect also.....lets just say 6 speedlights on triggers strategically positioned was the result and she was happy with the results .
Whew....
Oct 30, 2017 21:18:37 #
papa wrote:
From previous experience, I have a notion that met... (show quote)
From my own experience, I am willing to go as high as 25,600 ISO on my D5 for night sports action. Those files are good enough to make 20 x 30 if viewed at the proper distance. With smaller sizes, cropping is just fine. I shoot wide open, 1/1000th (if I can get it) auto ISO. When shooting sports there are no do-overs and no extra shots for insurance, you either get it or you don't. Experience helps with that issue. In this business, if you see it, you missed it! Best of luck.
Oct 30, 2017 21:33:53 #
Having a WYSIWYG electronic view finder would let you know what your pic will look like!
Oct 30, 2017 23:04:14 #
I did not realize that Auto ISO was so common. I recently took a class for wildlife photography, especially BIF. I found the AUTO ISO was amazing. It really helps when the bird changes directions or moves from sunny side up to shadow down. I do not understand why one would use it except on Manual. I thought that was the whole purpose, get the speed you want and the exposure you want, and still get the picture you want. I would never use it on a stationary subject, where I can shoot and adjust.
Oct 31, 2017 04:57:47 #
cjc2 wrote:
From my own experience, I am willing to go as high as 25,600 ISO on my D5 for night sports action. Those files are good enough to make 20 x 30 if viewed at the proper distance. With smaller sizes, cropping is just fine. I shoot wide open, 1/1000th (if I can get it) auto ISO. When shooting sports there are no do-overs and no extra shots for insurance, you either get it or you don't. Experience helps with that issue. In this business, if you see it, you missed it! Best of luck.
Post a few images. Maybe I am doing something wrong . I have never taken an image at 25.6k iso that I was happy with.
Oct 31, 2017 11:24:51 #
crazydaddio wrote:
Post a few images. Maybe I am doing something wrong . I have never taken an image at 25.6k iso that I was happy with.
Unfortunately, I am not able to post my professional work due to contractual obligations. That is why my avatar is of my grandson! We can talk more privately through PM or email. If you are interested in further conversation, please PM me and I will respond.
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