cambriaman Loc: Central CA Coast

I had the similar problem when I first got my SX-50. I learned that faster ISO, allowing faster shutter speeds was only part of the solution. The rest of the solution is to get a good grip with your left had, hold the camera against your forehead firmly and take a DEEP breath and HOLD it before pressing the shutter button with your right index finger in a steady pressure (DO NOT POKE the shutter button). This process improved my images immensely. However, I did read dpullum's description of using an old tennis ball to make a grip and think I'll give it a try, cheap enough to do! That will have its own learning curve, I fear!

optic Loc: Southwestern United States

MY EXPERIENCE WITH SUPPORTS:

1. Not worth the expense/effort:
Mechanical car-window supports: These offer guaranteed blurring if the engine is running. If you move, the camera moves. a passing truck or gust of wind and the camera moves. Same with children and dogs and impatient passengers.

2. Good:
Beanbags: Depending on size, type of filling material and what is chosen to support the bean bag. Performance varies with weight. Prohibitively difficult to transport or use in some field conditions.

3. Better:
Monopod: Not a consistent solution. Results improve with practice. Subjects often move or depart while necessary vertical adjustments are attempted.

4. Best:
Tripods: But only if size and quality are appropriate to the camera/lens involved (with some models you're better off hand held or with a monopod). For true success in some photographic situations, an adequate tripod is indispensable.

5. HAND HELD (my choice >90% of the time):
Modern camera/lens rigs offering hundreds of available exposures, fast, reliable autofocus, 4 digit ISO settings, and an abundance of pixels, allow one to successfully hand hold both macro and long telephoto shots that a few years ago would be regarded as impossible to take without external support. I often shoot my beloved birds and bugs hand held using lenses from 200 to 500mm with regularly acceptable and occasionally remarkable results. To do so, I rely on the above equipment along with forethought, regular practice and a generous smattering blind luck.....

chrisg-optical Loc: New York, NY

Assuming you are in a situation where you lack a tripod, monopod, etc., I found that leaning against (or ON) a sturdy object - pole, fence, wall, etc., will help steady the shot assuming you have some form of IS turned on. Using this method, I've taken tack sharp photos @ 300mm down to 1/40 sec. The worst thing to try is to take a shot like that freestanding.

Cdouthitt Loc: Traverse City, MI

The best trick is to buy a camera with 5 axis stabilization built in.

steveshub

I've had a similar problem with my Canon G9. My solution is pretty simple. If you have a camera strap attached, adjust the length so that it is comfortably shorter then your arms length. Pull the camera so that the strap is tight between it and your neck, and the tension makes it easier to hold it steady.

Quincykitty

I started to use monopod (Sunstick7600) keeping with left the padded end of the stick like pistol and operating camera with right hand.
For long zoom I make sure to support the monopod as it should be on the ground otherwise jest shooting holding the stick with left hand .
Works for me!

papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA

Shooting steady is the same with a handgun. Firm grip braced, exhale 2/3 breath and hold while squeezing off the shot. All newbies want to milk a camera or pistol like it's a cow's tete and flinch and that's why you must consciously practice until it becomes automatic. Train your brain to train your body and practice a lot.

Grannysweet Loc: Sikeston, MO

I had an SX60 and very seldom got a clear photo at full zoom. It would be great if it worked.

Mobius Loc: Troy, MI

See the link ejones0310 posted. Then when your left hand (elbow down) supports the camera, have the camera resting on the palm of your hand with the thumb to the left and the fingers to the right, the palm is on the bottom. It is the solid support of the arm through the palm that steadies the camera. People frequently have the palm to the left with the thumb below the lens and the fingers on top. The thumb provides little if any support.

Hip Coyote

I find that many aspects of photography are similar to marksmanship. For instance it is easier to shoot a rifle from a supported position than standing up shooting offhand. If you shoot with a scope (think telephoto lens) it is very challenging to control “bounce.” I tend to get very sharp shots using a few strategies.

When time allows use a tripod and remote trigger.

When time does not allow make sure IS is on in camera.

Try to use a braced position such as a crook of a tree, a wall etc. You can shoot over the barricade or brace your camera along side it (just like a firearm!).

I like the kneeling braced position where I kneel on the ground and use one of my knees as one of my controlling points of contact with the ground and camera to make it steady.

If you are young or a yoga instructor you can go prone. I’m too old and don’t like getting dirty!

The inverse of the focal length is a good rule of thumb. With my Oly I can get away with a bit slower speed but generally the rule is true.

The goal here is to get the shot. Meaning get the &$?!! shot! Even if you have to push ISO high to allow you a good shutter speed then that is what you have to do. Get the shot.

Beanbags are great. Marksman use them for a reason. So should photographers.

Breath control and shutter control (trigger control) are key. Breath in and slowly breath out. Midway press...not slam...the shutter. Ideally you want to have the shutter activation be a “surprise”...just like marksman. It’s called a surprise break.

The weights other people described are useful but you have to carry them around. Not my thing. (Interesting aside weights on guns and even weighted clothes are used by competitors in some shooting situations.)

Proper grip on camera is vital. Look it up. Elbows tight in to body, etc.

Stance. If standing up you need one foot forward of the other so you are not wobbly.

suneth Loc: Sri Lanka

Yes, It is motion. Sometimes it is hard to keep the subject inside the frame.

suneth Loc: Sri Lanka

Thanks for commenting. I have this issue mostly when photographing birds.

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

Are you using live view. or the view finder? If using the lcd screen, there is no way to hold the camera steady at long focal lengths. BTW the elbow against the body and proper breathing technique is a common way of target shooting while standing.

suneth Loc: Sri Lanka

Thanks for commenting. I think I'm holding the camera right way.

suneth Loc: Sri Lanka

Thank you very much for all of your valuable inputs/ideas. Really appreciating.