Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Cool. Thank you.

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Thanks, Bob!

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Thank you!

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Thanks, Goof.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

I like umbrellas for digital portraiture. Soft boxes work well for video interviews, product photography, copy work, or when you need a harder light source.

Some folks use soft boxes for main lights, umbrellas for fill. That worked better with film than for digital.

Haydon

Rab....if you are interested in umbrellas, you won't find them any cheaper than here. They are shoot through and not reflective. Joel Edelman recommended these on YouTube.

https://photoflex-inc.myshopify.com/collections/modifiers/products/umbrella-30-inch-white

Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada

I'll try not to skew the results . . . when I do location portraits I most often use a shoot through umbrella for portability . . . but in a "living room" studio I feel there is too much light thrown around the room from the back of the shoot through. A good percentage of the light bounces back out of the umbrella and produces too much uncontrolled light for my liking. In that situation a soft box is definitely the best choice.
For on location groups and questionable weather (wind) I use two off camera speed lights with Lite Genius Super-Scoops which are not only quite effective, but are almost 100% wind resistant.

Clapperboard

I use off camera flash occasionally. I am currently doing some product photography using off camera flash. Umbrellas are good for diffusing but will spray the light everywhere. Good if that's what you want. Yes, a soft box will let you 'feather' the light to control the edge. Be sure to get soft box(es) that have the baffle set back from the front edge. The baffle is only slightly set back but it makes a lot of difference. The ones that have the baffle right at the front don't give such good control when 'feathering'. GOBOs -- blanking baffles can be home made and setup to protect areas. A few 'spare' light stands can be useful.

Reinaldokool Loc: San Rafael, CA

For years I used a Gary Fong Lightsphere. About a year ago I tried a "Light Genius" because it would fit better in my case. I always use it. My rig is a long right-angle bracket that puts the flash about 10-11 inches to the left and above the lens--easier than handholding it, but still about where I would anyway.

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

This is worth knowing! I assume octaboxes are the same?

Thanks!

jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania

Yes, I use off-camera flash quite a bit of the time. I use light stands with umbrellas and softboxes both and some other light modifiers too such as snoots, barn doors, and diffusers.

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Awesome. Thanks, Haydon!

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

I've never done studio work but my use of off camera flash goes back decades. Just found it easier to control, the various attachments The camera felt top heavy and somehow out of balance.

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Thanks, Bob.

jcboy3

Perhaps you should consider advice from a pro.

Shoot through umbrellas throw light everywhere, which means you will get reflections from colored walls and objects that will color your light. I use them only to raise ambient levels in large rooms/halls, usually when I am the official photographer for an event. Best used with strobes that can punch with power.

Reflective umbrellas throw light forward; silver ones can be harsh, white ones softer. I'll use small ones for back lighting when shooting at events, especially when shooting food.

Covered umbrellas throw light forward, but provide much better difusion and softer light. I use these frequently for location portrait or food shots because they are easy to set up. I like the Photek Softlighter or Buff version. For truly portable work, I have a cover for a Westcott convertable umbrella (43"). They are shallow, so work well in tight spaces.

Similar to the umbrellas are the Octaboxes; they are deeper, provide more uniform light, but take up more space. You can get grids for some, which adds to their ability to control light. One primary advantage of the covered umbrellas and Octaboxes is that the catch lights (reflections of the light in the eyes) are round. That's why I like them for key light.

Softboxes can provide better light control, if they have recessed diffusers and especially if they have grids. Cheap softboxes without recessed diffusers are like umbrellas, although they do have a slightly more defined edge. Softboxes can run from square to strip (narrow rectangle), common size is a 3:2 ratio (e.g. 36:24).

Classic softboxes and octaboxes can be difficult to set up. I use quick release speed rings to help set them up, so I can set up a 7-foot octabox very quickly. There are some quick setup boxes; I have several that just fold out. They take up quite a bit of room, which is a minus to their portability. Umbrella style boxes can be set up quickly; they are not as durable but are generally very cheap. Westcott Apollo series are examples which I use frequently; they do have limitations on tilt which can be solved by using adapters or boom arms. The lights are inside the box, so they work best if you have remote power control for your lights.

I use all of this (just not all at once) depending on the look I want, location I'm shooting, how portable it needs to be, etc etc etc.

If using a speedlight rather than a strobe, you will want the flash further back than a large covered umbrella will allow. Umbrella style softbox is a good start; Westcott Apollo can be gotten in kits with grids. Get the newer ones with fiberglass spiders.