FLASH
Oct 3, 2017 15:06:40 #
rmalarz wrote:
Setting ISO to 800% or 1000% of what value?
--Bob
--Bob
Noise can give that sought after film look....., no? LoL
SS
Oct 3, 2017 18:23:38 #
rjaywallace wrote:
Understanding Flash Photography by Bryan Peterson. From Amazon. Kindle version $18, paperback $20.25.
Peterson also wrote the acknowledged ‘bible’ on photography exposure, “Understanding Exposure”
Peterson also wrote the acknowledged ‘bible’ on photography exposure, “Understanding Exposure”
I also have that book. He covers a lot of different techniques. If you go on Amazon, you can do a "Look Inside" and see some of the content. I never used my flash in manual mode until I got his book.Oct 4, 2017 05:59:31 #
Perhaps you find this useful.
• Flash Photography Techniques - Tangents - Neil van Niekerk
• Flash Photography Techniques - Tangents - Neil van Niekerk
Oct 4, 2017 06:24:33 #
Mondolinni wrote:
Hello Hogs, br Does anyone have a suggestion for &... (show quote)
The Nikon system is excellent, so I would get a book dealing specifically with Nikon flashes.
https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=nikopn+flash+photography
Oct 4, 2017 06:27:46 #
Hopefully, I am replying to the person about the flash question. First it must be said that there are many ways to get the result you want. I know what I know and it works. Shoot these flash exposures in manual. Never go above f5.6 It is too much work for the flash. I typically work at f4 or more open. camera set at 1/60. if you sync at less go to rear sync flash. Use your Iso depending on the conditions. bright envorironment, maybe start at 400 or less. dark environment, easily go to 1600 iso. I use a D7200 and there is no noise there. With flash I work with in 15 ft. Ok to use modifiers there. beyond 15ft. take off the modifiers. I only use my Nikon flash on "A." if you need a slight more light, click the + button and it raises the power by a 1/3 each time. To some up:
camera manual
"play" with iso
Flash at "A"
use rear sync below 1/60
I have a ton of samples at www.delottphoto.com
To me, the difference between a pro and amateur, the pro uses his flash.
camera manual
"play" with iso
Flash at "A"
use rear sync below 1/60
I have a ton of samples at www.delottphoto.com
To me, the difference between a pro and amateur, the pro uses his flash.
Oct 4, 2017 08:27:16 #
Oct 4, 2017 09:13:53 #
jerryc41 wrote:
The Nikon system is excellent, so I would get a book dealing specifically with Nikon flashes.
https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=nikopn+flash+photography
https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=nikopn+flash+photography
Thanks Jerry!!
Oct 4, 2017 09:15:02 #
delottphoto wrote:
Hopefully, I am replying to the person about the f... (show quote)
Thanks for your input delottphoto
Oct 4, 2017 10:39:57 #
In a situation like you described, the best solution would be to shoot in Programmed mode. The camera would do the calculations for you as long as it is working properly. However, light falls off as the square of the distance and even the best programs have difficulty if the flash subject is in the back ground and there is more light in the foreground. In that situation, you may need to take a shot to see how it looks and then adjust accordingly.
Oct 4, 2017 12:18:44 #
SharpShooter wrote:
Paul, I agree, but he's had problems with bouncing.
A good, well controlled direct flash is better than a poorly done bounce flash without enough light!
He needs to learn to walk before he runs!!! Just saying.
SS
A good, well controlled direct flash is better than a poorly done bounce flash without enough light!
He needs to learn to walk before he runs!!! Just saying.
SS
Understood - most of my flash shots are direct, but then I'm shooting performers on stage in a dark theater with black ceilings.
Oct 4, 2017 14:03:52 #
I use TTL flash very often and especially like it in rooms with white (or nearly so) walls and ceiling throwing the light into a walls and ceiling corner which simulates a huge umbrella. Seldom every have any problem with such a situation and the lighting appears to be natural and soft.
Oct 4, 2017 15:08:15 #
Oct 4, 2017 15:21:54 #
Some of below is a bit dated, but I found a lot of good info on Nikon flash from this blog series.
http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/2008/01/nikon-flash-two-separate-metering.html
http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/2008/01/nikon-flash-two-separate-metering.html
Oct 4, 2017 15:24:12 #
A couple of basic things about flash. At full power, the only thing that affects your image is your aperture. Shutter speed makes no difference unless you are using cameras that limit shutter speed to 1/60 or 1/125 because of the traveling “curtain”. Using the wrong shutter speed will cut your picture in half.
Keep in mind that every time you increase the distance from your subject, you have to open up your lens. For instance, if you are shooting at f16 at 5 feet, you have to shoot at f8 when you shoot at 10 feet.
When shooting outside, your aperture is used for proper flash exposure, and shutter speed is used for “ambient” or existing light. So if you have to open your aperture for increased distance to your subject, you need to increase your shutter speed a like amount for proper exposure.
All this was a necessity before the new automatic cameras we have today, and another reason I used to shoot with cameras with between the lens shutters like Roleiflex and Mamiyas. But knowing the basics of flash should help you with your question.
Keep in mind that every time you increase the distance from your subject, you have to open up your lens. For instance, if you are shooting at f16 at 5 feet, you have to shoot at f8 when you shoot at 10 feet.
When shooting outside, your aperture is used for proper flash exposure, and shutter speed is used for “ambient” or existing light. So if you have to open your aperture for increased distance to your subject, you need to increase your shutter speed a like amount for proper exposure.
All this was a necessity before the new automatic cameras we have today, and another reason I used to shoot with cameras with between the lens shutters like Roleiflex and Mamiyas. But knowing the basics of flash should help you with your question.
Oct 4, 2017 21:18:48 #
checkout this site as they are a very helpful group!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/speedlightfundamentals/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/speedlightfundamentals/
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.