One of the most important differences between the view cameras Ansel Adams used, and the smaller cameras such as 35mm (which he also occasionally used) is that a view camera can do what you say. By making the back(the film or sensor) perfectly perpendicular to the ground (parallel to the building), you get upright buildings. Then, by raising the front of the camera (the board with a lens on it), you can move to the upper part of the image (where the top of the building is, leaving out the unwanted ground area). Behold! Straight building, top to bottom. You can also get a similar effect regarding lines that are horizontal in the picture, by swinging the back one way or the other to make the two ends of a building (or whatever) look more (or less) equal in height, when one is farther away. If you shift the whole image to one side by moving the back that way, so the part of the glass in the picture with your reflection moves outside the frame, you vanish from the image.

The advent of 35mm in journalism and later in general commercial use meant we had to get used to tilting buildings--and often we exaggerate the effect on purpose. But yes, Photoshop has perspective correction you can use after shooting--I never tried it. The format of your camera (full frame or less) does not matter.

If you really want to correct perspective in the camera, as you say (I suspect the quality is better? Maybe not...), you can do that for much less money than a zillion-dollar tilt lens. Just buy an old view camera (many are cheaper than that lens), and attach your Canon to the back with an adapter made for that (from eBay--4x5 back adapter for Canon, around $100). The 4x5s called "field cameras" are smaller and much lighter than studio models, and the ones called press cameras (such as Graphic) are meant to be used either on tripod or hand-held. But that was when men were men, especially journalists--by today's standards, the press cameras are quite hefty. You see them in old movies. And press cameras do not have quite as much correction movement as a full-featured view camera. The adapter that fits your Canon to a view camera does not work with wide angle Canon lenses, though--it puts too much distance between sensor and lens. In that case, just use a wide angle large format lens on the view camera with 4x5 film, and give the Canon a rest. In any case the setup will use a large format lens--not the Canon lenses. Then when the film is developed, you can scan it and resume digital festivities.

The large format digital setup requires a view camera lens 125mm or above, because of the minimum distance from lens to sensor. The angle of view for any 125mm lens is exactly the same on your digital camera, if it really is 125mm and not "equivalent to 125mm". My avatar picture here beside my name, of the rex begonias, was shot with this setup, using a big studio lens on an 8x10 camera and a Canon digital 650D camera on back.

One of the most important differences between the view cameras Ansel Adams used, and the smaller cameras such as 35mm (which he also occasionally used) is that a view camera can do what you say. By making the back(the film or sensor) perfectly perpendicular to the ground (parallel to the building), you get upright buildings. Then, by raising the front of the camera (the board with a lens on it), you can move to the upper part of the image (where the top of the building is, leaving out the unwanted ground area). Behold! Straight building, top to bottom. You can also get a similar effect regarding lines that are horizontal in the picture, by swinging the back one way or the other to make the two ends of a building (or whatever) look more (or less) equal in height, when one is farther away. If you shift the whole image to one side by moving the back that way, so the part of the glass in the picture with your reflection moves outside the frame, you vanish from the image.

The advent of 35mm in journalism and later in general commercial use meant we had to get used to tilting buildings--and often we exaggerate the effect on purpose. But yes, Photoshop has perspective correction you can use after shooting--I never tried it. The format of your camera (full frame or less) does not matter.

If you really want to correct perspective in the camera, as you say (I suspect the quality is better? Maybe not...), you can do that for much less money than a zillion-dollar tilt lens. Just buy an old view camera (many are cheaper than that lens), and attach your Canon to the back with an adapter made for that (from eBay--4x5 back adapter for Canon, around $100). The 4x5s called "field cameras" are smaller and much lighter than studio models, and the ones called press cameras (such as Graphic) are meant to be used either on tripod or hand-held. But that was when men were men, especially journalists--by today's standards, the press cameras are quite hefty. You see them in old movies. And press cameras do not have quite as much correction movement as a full-featured view camera. The adapter that fits your Canon to a view camera does not work with wide angle Canon lenses, though--it puts too much distance between sensor and lens. In that case, just use a wide angle large format lens on the view camera with 4x5 film, and give the Canon a rest. In any case the setup will use a large format lens--not the Canon lenses. Then when the film is developed, you can scan it and resume digital festivities.

The large format digital setup requires a view camera lens 125mm or above, because of the minimum distance from lens to sensor. The angle of view for any 125mm lens is exactly the same on your digital camera, if it really is 125mm and not "equivalent to 125mm". My avatar picture here beside my name, of the rex begonias, was shot with this setup, using a big studio lens on an 8x10 camera and a Canon digital 650D camera on back.

My question is when taking a cityscape with A crop sensor camera compared to a full frame, Will one leave the building relatively plum level and square and the other tilt or bow more to a counterpoint. My understanding is that the crop sensor like the Camera I use D5300 did tilt the buildings in. My next question is I have read that this can be taken care of in post processing. But was curious if there is anything that can be done within the camera itself and or lens, I read something about a tilt shift lens.
Thank you for your help and advice

One of the most important differences between the view cameras Ansel Adams used, and the smaller cameras such as 35mm (which he also occasionally used) is that a view camera can do what you say. By making the back(the film or sensor) perfectly perpendicular to the ground (parallel to the building), you get upright buildings. Then, by raising the front of the camera (the board with a lens on it), you can move to the upper part of the image (where the top of the building is, leaving out the unwanted ground area). Behold! Straight building, top to bottom. You can also get a similar effect regarding lines that are horizontal in the picture, by swinging the back one way or the other to make the two ends of a building (or whatever) look more (or less) equal in height, when one is farther away. If you shift the whole image to one side by moving the back that way, so the part of the glass in the picture with your reflection moves outside the frame, you vanish from the image.

The advent of 35mm in journalism and later in general commercial use meant we had to get used to tilting buildings--and often we exaggerate the effect on purpose. But yes, Photoshop has perspective correction you can use after shooting--I never tried it. The format of your camera (full frame or less) does not matter.

If you really want to correct perspective in the camera, as you say (I suspect the quality is better? Maybe not...), you can do that for much less money than a zillion-dollar tilt lens. Just buy an old view camera (many are cheaper than that lens), and attach your Canon to the back with an adapter made for that (from eBay--4x5 back adapter for Canon, around $100). The 4x5s called "field cameras" are smaller and much lighter than studio models, and the ones called press cameras (such as Graphic) are meant to be used either on tripod or hand-held. But that was when men were men, especially journalists--by today's standards, the press cameras are quite hefty. You see them in old movies. And press cameras do not have quite as much correction movement as a full-featured view camera. The adapter that fits your Canon to a view camera does not work with wide angle Canon lenses, though--it puts too much distance between sensor and lens. In that case, just use a wide angle large format lens on the view camera with 4x5 film, and give the Canon a rest. In any case the setup will use a large format lens--not the Canon lenses. Then when the film is developed, you can scan it and resume digital festivities.

The large format digital setup requires a view camera lens 125mm or above, because of the minimum distance from lens to sensor. The angle of view for any 125mm lens is exactly the same on your digital camera, if it really is 125mm and not "equivalent to 125mm". My avatar cpicture here beside my name, of the rex begonias, was shot with this setup, using a big studio lens on an 8x10 camera and a Canon digital 650D camera on back.

My question is when taking a cityscape with A crop sensor camera compared to a full frame, Will one leave the building relatively plum level and square and the other tilt or bow more to a counterpoint. My understanding is that the crop sensor like the Camera I use D5300 did tilt the buildings in. My next question is I have read that this can be taken care of in post processing. But was curious if there is anything that can be done within the camera itself and or lens, I read something about a tilt shift lens.
Thank you for your help and advice

My question is when taking a cityscape with A crop sensor camera compared to a full frame, Will one leave the building relatively plum level and square and the other tilt or bow more to a counterpoint. My understanding is that the crop sensor like the Camera I use D5300 did tilt the buildings in. My next question is I have read that this can be taken care of in post processing. But was curious if there is anything that can be done within the camera itself and or lens, I read something about a tilt shift lens.
Thank you for your help and advice