That's very true! Thank you for the advice.
cjc2 wrote:
Correct. You would need to give much more information to get a useful answer. What would work at dusk wouldn't necessarily be useful for mid day. Shade? Sun? On ground? In air? Many more questions to be answered or information given. Funny? I thought so. But absolutely correct as well. Best of luck.
Check on whether the festival will have after glow. Usually when the balloons return, it's sundown. At that point they tether the balloons and light them up. With the colors, they look great.
Take a photo, check the playback screen and make adjustments until you are happy, there are no hard and fast rules for settings.
I would use AUTO or semi-suto mode to make sure I had "something in the can" (shows how long I have been doing this) before experimenting with manual. This may be a lifetime event and you would not want to get home with nothing usable. My cameras do a fine job with auto, and I can concentrate on having fun and working of composition, focus and timing instead of settings. Once you have some good photos "in the can" you can begin experimenting with manual.
You will need a tripod for After-glows. Don't even think of using a tripod or even monopod to shoot normally. When they takeoff you won't have much time to experiment. It happens faster than you think. Getting basic exposures is easy. I gave you settings that most other photographers wouldn't think of and tips as well. Sharpness and depth of field can make your shots great.
Just let the camera determine you exposure. They sometimes do that very well.
For Complete manual use the sunny f16 rule, and bracket using f11 and f22.
First balloon event? Shoot this one on auto.
Study your exif for your next balloon event.
Or, since your just getting into manual, just go ahead and blow this event out and then study your mistakes in exif.
If you aren't used to shooting manual, I say don't. Use a Program mode appropriately or just AUTO and you'll bring home some useable images.
That, and the other dial to balloons!
Laurie, Adjust your ISO as low as possible to get the least noise. But if you open up the aperture as wide as it will go (lowest number) and your shutter speed is 1/60 second and you still can't get enough light to get a good exposure then don't be afraid to raise the ISO.
One thing you must do is learn how to use the histogram. It is a graphical representation of the pixels from Darkest to lightest. If all of the pixels are in between the two sides there is nothing under or overexposed.
The other thing is the meter inside the camera viewfinder and probably on the top LCD screen. (I'm not familiar with Nikon) Play around with the shutter speed and aperture and watch the line or dot move left to right. Try to get it in the middle. Take a shot and check the histogram.
You simply must get out of program if you are ever going to be fully successful. In my humble opinion it is hard to call yourself a photographer until you do. The camera is the photographer if you have it on Program. I'm not trying to be mean. I relied on the program for years and shot many paid assignments before I really understood my camera. So don't feel bad.
Two wildly divergent opinions on this. Interesting. One note: A good photograph never screams "He/she used AUTO. Shame!!" No one will know if you don't tell.
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