burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

I used DPP the way you describe for years. It converts raw data to a 16-bit bitmap image, displays an 8-bit proxy of that image in your monitor's color space, and displays proxy views of your adjustments in real time. When you like what you see, you can stop. DPP autosaves the changes into the .CR2 file (as a wrapped-up sidecar file, inside the raw file wrapper, beside the raw data, a JPEG preview image, camera EXIF metadata, and more), but the raw data remains intact. You can also export the bitmap to 16-bit TIFF in your favorite color space, OR send the bitmap directly through your printer driver.

When you print from your camera, it is first converting the raw data to a bitmap.

Of course, if you open the raw file later in Lightroom or Photoshop, it ignores the DPP changes you made --- it can't read them. So LR saves to a database (catalog), and PS saves to a sidecar .XMP file. Again, the raw data does not change.

Raw data is neither viewable nor printable. It must be converted to a bitmap to view or print. The bitmap may be stored as JPEG or TIFF, or in any format your software supports.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

"Ah, but not all hunters are chefs" . . . -Henri Cartier-Bresson

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Not quite - I only shoot raw and I don't need to download it to see it at all. If I need a set of fast jpegs, yes I just can't hand over a memory card with jpegs on it (not that I would ever want to do that anyway), I just copy the files to my computer and use IJFR and a couple of seconds later I have a full set of jpegs. Thanks to that medium quality jpeg preview that is in the raw file.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Never said you can't process a jpeg. It's just that depending on the type and scope of adjustment(s) you are more likely to retain image quality if you make as many of those adjustments to the file BEFORE you convert to a bitmap. When you convert to a bitmap, your best chances at retaining image quality is to convert to a 16 bit rather than an 8 bit file. Not saying you can't edit an 8 bit jpeg, but if you don't think that there are benefits to working with raw files and all you ever really need is a jpeg because raw is too much bother, too slow, too difficult, and the results are no better, then I can hook you up with the company that sells this product - I believe you know them - Amazon - you can probably get a great deal wholesale and become a distributor - you'll make a fortune, REALLY!!

Just having a bit of fun - nothing personal. I like your stuff, and I really am impressed with your DIY camera support ideas, btw.

(Download)

photonutt1970

If possible you should shoot in BOTH but this is really only feasible if you have dual card slots, if not I just shoot JPEG

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Bill, the distinction I was trying to make is that all cameras record raw, and the vast majority of people with cameras, including quite a few professionals, are either content with the camera's processing, or they aren't and will shoot raw so they can take control of the work the camera does automatically according to how you have set the camera. They recognize that different scenes often require different settings for saturation, contrast, sharpening, etc - and prefer to make those adjustments later, rather than have to stop, change settings, shoot, then stop again with the subject or lighting changes, adjust the camera, shoot, repeat, repeat, repeat.

In my workflow, which 99% of the time results in a jpeg for sharing/printing/posting - I neither edit nor save any jpegs. Once they get to where I send them I delete them. I have the raw edits, I have the PSD working file which contains all my layers, smart objects, masking, etc. and both are in my Lightroom catalog. I have a dozen or so saved presets for output - each destination often has a unique set of requirements for file size, image size, color space, black and white input clipping points, sharpening, watermark, etc. These are all stored in the export presets.

I've been using Photoshop since version 4 (1998) and ever since I changed to a raw workflow, editing jpegs has always left me underwhelmed. I can do so much more, and with that in mind, I can push the camera to it's limits in ways I could never do when I shot jpegs (from 2000 to 2006).

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

I also shoot only RAW, and can view the embedded JPEG on the camera. With RAW + JPEG, which JPEG would one be seeing? (I think it would have to be the one in the RAW file.) By the way, I use "RAW" vs "raw" because that's how Nikon uses it in their manuals.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Both files can go on one card. Df users do it all the time.

jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania

I would suggest you shoot in "RAW" and if want a JPG immediately shoot in "RAW & JPG" mode. Shooting in JPG only offers nothing over shooting in RAW, other than to save some space on your memory card, if your short on space and din't have another card with you. The only other advantage is the availability of a ready to use pre-processed JPG. The RAW file always gives you much more data to work with and gives you a much better chance to get the shot just the way you want it. The data lost in a JPG is gone and can never be replaced. If you do shoot in RAW only as many do, you can still extract the JPG stored within the RAW filenlater if you want to. I use a free program called "Instant JPEG from RAW" to extract the JPG's if I feel I need them.

fotoman150

If you have the space on your card and on your hard drive, shoot RAW. Then lock yourself in a room and learn Lightroom. You will have fun developing your own shots.

I shot jpgs until 2011, when I got a new computer and larger cards. That's the only thing that held me back.

stevemdr

With SD cards so cheap, there's no reason not to write files that are both RAW & JPG, most of the time. That's what I've done for the past year or so; especially with my Sony and Fujifilm gear that do a superb job with both formats. When shooting my Olympus cameras, JPG has been a bit easier. However that when I was using Adobe Lightroom. Now I'm switching over to ON1 Photo RAW 2017, and despite its name, it does a great job with both RAW and JPG with Fujifilm, Sony and Olympus. Therefore, for now I'll continue using both formats, but as I gain confidence, I'll probably switch to RAW since all 3 of my camera have instant conversion to JPG if I want to email some photos without going through ON1.

I don't view this as a "big deal" decision. I shoot with a Fujifilm X100F, a Sony RX100 V and an Olympus OM D-M5. Set any of them to Intelligent Auto and Vivid, and it's hard to take a bad JPG photo. About 95% of the time, if you shoot with decent light, the RAW photo will be no better than the JPG photo, no matter what you do to it. However, if you shoot with too little or too much light -- such as in a dark room or on the water with lots of glare and maybe a back-lit subject -- that's when the RAW photo will save your reputation! Meanwhile, with Class 10 64gig Lexar or Sandisk SD cards selling for less than $35, there's no reason NOT to save in both formats.

Rongnongno Loc: FL

No one has mentioned that raw is not exposed the same way as a JPG due to the format potential. Shooting raw+JPG is a good idea for a beginner simply because it show the potential and difference between the two formats (and remove the frustration later on). When shooting raw enters new real of possibilities not available in raw exposed as a JPG...

Just saying...

jimkh

Gary Friedman, a noted photographer, lecturer. photo book author has been quoted as saying he shoots raw and jpeg. This way he always has the raw to fall back on if there's any difficulty. However, he says that 92 per cent of the time the jpeg is fine.

G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK

Hi Peterff

My Sony limits burst high speed to Jpg only, auto panorama too. As it doesn't get used that often I think there is a dirty contact somewhere because the message comes up quite frequently even for settings that I use regularly.....If I ignore it it takes the pictures in Raw and Jpg just the same. (generally in A or M) I think some of the programme settings are Jpg only. But I haven't used P or auto that much to worry about it.
I still have Canon 450d which is my go to camera for landscapes etc BUT I have limited myself to a 50mm and 18-55mm lenses on that one. (most used is the kit 18-55) I had a Sony A230 with a 70 - 300 lens and a minolta 100 - 200mm lens, so simply changed bodies to the A65SLT. If I know I need the length then the sony gets used. I should use it more but the canon is an old friend that almost sets itself up.

Basically I had a brief moment of GAS. Should have taken a tablet. It has got its pluses, it is a great camera! I just seem to have gone 'off the boil'.

I will get back into it - just as soon as work and wife allow.
Have fun