jcolton

I shoot jpeg except for those photos that are going to turn out really well. In other words, I shoot RAW all the time!

blackest Loc: Ireland

You could convert to a jpeg format file for printing but then that isn't printing RAW that is printing a jpeg where the color information has been cut back to 8 bits per channel and some pixels use wrong colors due to compression.

You can print 16 bit per channel image data, if your printer supports it. Perhaps printing from photoshop from a 16 bit per channel color space.

Both raw and jpeg are file formats used to store data in a file for that data to be displayed or printed that data must be unpacked from the file.

In the case of Raw files the data usually* needs to be extrapolated and decoded. Each pixel site has just a red or a blue or a green color value just 1/3rd of the color information the missing values are gathered from neighboring pixel sites. So a raw file needs some processing as well as unpacking of the data.

A more interesting question is can you tell the difference between a file printed from raw data and a file printed from jpeg data. Sometimes yes, jpeg doesn't deal very well with fine color gradients e.g sky resulting in banding with the 16 bit raw data there should never be banding (most of the time there isn't with jpeg to be fair).

*Some DNGs have stored values with rgb values (e.g scans) so its not possible to say all raw files just have stored a single color value per pixel site.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

There is no simple answer to this question, and plenty of zeal in the answers you will hear!

Every camera always creates a raw image and a JPEG image at the same time. Whether that raw image is saved with an embedded JPEG for viewing, or processed to a JPEG for immediate use, or both, is up to you when you set up the menu.

Raw images are great when you need exposure latitude, plan to post-process your images, need to squeeze every last pixel of quality out of a scene, want creative control that simply can't be had with in-camera JPEG processing... They have the penultimate photographic potential, because, like color negative films, with a decent exposure, you can make any kind of image you want from them.

If you are doing run-and-gun work, weddings, wildlife, or anything where the light is changing rapidly and you NEED LATITUDE for adjustment, raw mode is your friend. If you are a "photographic artist" who wants total control over the look of your prints or online images, raw mode is your friend.

JPEG images are not meant to be edited! They are meant to be used right out of the camera. JPEG is a compressed file format, storing 8-bit images instead of the 10, 12, 14, or 16 bits per pixel that the original raw file has or had. JPEGs contain much less data than raw images. So when you go to adjust them, there is much less latitude to do so. The irony of the JPEG is that the closer to PERFECT your original exposure, the more LATITUDE you have for adjustment!

Knowing that, people ask, "Why would anyone ever save JPEGs at the camera?" Well, there are perfectly good reasons for doing so! Here are a few:

• You work for a wire service or news company that demands straight-out-of-the-camera images for publication, because they don't trust you not to photoshop a raw file (meaning you might alter its visual contents).

• You work for a mass portrait company (school portrait studios, department or big-box store studios, mall studios...). These companies rely on JPEGs because they make MILLIONS of images and have neither the server space, nor the network bandwidth, to move them to high speed printers at high speeds. When your lab makes a million packages in one week, as one company I've worked for does, you don't convert them from raw files!

• You work under fixed, controlled-quality lighting. If you're photographing 500 different screws, nuts, bolts, and washers for a parts catalog, there is little reason to use raw capture. You can set the camera menus and exposure and white balance once, make 500 exposures, burn a CD, and be done with it.

• You need to send a file straight from your camera, to and through your smart phone, to a colleague elsewhere, for immediate use on a web page or in a presentation. SOME cameras have a bit of limited on-board raw file post-processing control, but most don't, and using that feature is awkward. So the solution is "PRE-processing" — setting menus and exposure and white balance correctly at the camera, and sending a decent JPEG via WiFi, NFC, or BlueTooth.

• You used to use slide film almost exclusively, so you learned how to control nearly ALL the variables BEFORE the moment of exposure! With slides, we had NO LATITUDE. (Okay, +1/3 and –1/2 to –2/3 of one f/stop, same as practical for JPEGs). We had to use the right film (Tungsten or Daylight color temperature balance), the right ISO film for the circumstances, the right color compensating filter over the lens to balance the light source (0.30 CC Magenta for Cool White fluorescent lamps, for instance). If we wanted any vignetting, that was done with a lens attachment. If we wanted any other special effects, they were done with lighting, filters, or other on-scene techniques. In short, we understood how to control everything going onto that film, and had the discipline and care to do so.

In reality, raw and JPEG capture represent two completely different work flows. Like Kodak Portra 160 Professional Color Negative Film and Fujichrome Velvia 50 Transparency Film, they serve completely different needs. I use both raw and JPEG file types, and consider neither one to be superior to the other. They are simply different tools that I use for different purposes.

TheDman Loc: USA

All this means is that you prefer to have your file exported as a jpg midway through your processing workflow, a method that is of dubious benefit.

Uuglypher Loc: South Dakota (East River)

Shoot raw whenever you can use it to maximum advantage by using your camera's full complement of raw-accessible dynamic range, otherwise shoot JPEG files.

Dave

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Yes

fishmaven Loc: Ohio right now

I'll toss in my opinion too. If you're going to share on FB you'd have picked up your phone. If you pick up your camera shoot raw. I'll add a caveat, if you're taking photos of your family or close friends use your camera always. At some point you'll wish you had photos of everyone, especially those that you can't take photos of because they're gone... If you can take a mediocre photo and play with it and turn it into a keeper, you'll be hooked on raw...
Dan Martin
fishmaven@gmail.com

Mary Kate Loc: NYC

Thank you. I am aware of that process. Just recently learned about printing and pixel size. I was curious if you needed to convert to jpg.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

A JPEG is not required for printing. A bit map is, but a raw image can be translated to a bit map and printed at higher than JPEG quality by many different software packages.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

No.

Silverman Loc: Michigan

How exact does RAW + JPEG work, do I still see my photo on my D3300 or must I download it first ro my computer?

jackpi Loc: Southwest Ohio

If you are now willing to learn how to post-process your images, shoot JPEG.
If you are learning to post-process, shoot RAW + JPEG.
When you are confident with your post-processing, shoot RAW.

The best way to learn post processing is Youtube and books.

You can download a free RAW converter (processor) from your camera's manufacturer website.

A more powerful RAW processor for beginners is Adobe Elements. Adobe Elements also includes image management features.
When you feel constrained by the image processing tools in Adobe Elements, move up to Lightroom + Photoshop.

Silverman Loc: Michigan

Will Adobe Elements work on my Acer Chromebook 15 Laptop?

DB Loc: Myrtle Beach, SC

I shoot both. I have a Nikon D7200 camera with two card slots that allow me to shoot raw and jpeg at the same time. The finest setting for jpeg is 6000x4000 pixels and 24.0 mb files. I have printed a 18x36 canvas print from a jpeg file and it is beautiful. I use the jpeg files to sort though my shots. If I find one that I feel I might want to print in a really large size I will save the raw file. But for the most part, the jpeg files my camera produces wow everyone. Experiment and find what works best for you. One thing to keep in mind is raw files are very large files, so make sure you have lots of storage space. Look forward to seeing your photos.

chikid68 Loc: Tennesse USA

I use raw an am currently using an old athlon dual core and 4 gigabytes of ram so while a faster computer does indeed speed things up it is still possible on older equipment just slower