Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Thanks for the replies, all.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Well, you certainly do not shoot in manual to have an exposure different to what the meter reads but to be in full control of your exposures. If you make a mistake while on manual it is your mistake, not the camera.
In AUTO and using exposure compensation there is lots of freedom while shooting and lots of control also. The exposure meter gets you in the ballpark but that is all the rest depends on you, not the camera.
Manual has always been the setting where the photographer has been in total control but I admit that technology today is pretty flexible and allows using AUTO with total control also if the photographer is aware of the limitations.

JuxtaposePictures Loc: San Diego

I agree completely as regards exposure but the image would likely still look different from the manual shot than the auto shot unless you just happen to pick the exact same aperture and shutter speed settings.

Your post seems to have been hijacked by the which one is better debate though and for that I'll say neither manual nor auto settings are better as long as you are getting the results you want. For me I'll use manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, or program depending on the situation, subject, and camera. One big advantage to using auto exposure modes is knowing you'll end up with decent exposures when shooting with ambient light in a situation where you don't have time to keep checking your exposure and have to concentrate on the action. In those situations I'll usually use exposure compensation when I think my meter will be thrown off by the scene. If I'm shooting in a controlled environment like a studio or a slower paced environment like landscape, still life, or nature photography I'll more often shoot in manual.

paulrph1 Loc: Washington, Utah

You are somewhat correct. Manual mode is for those that know exactly what they are doing where the camera companies have invented the other modes for those that do not want to figure out or are to lazy to understand the processes. In retrospect having dealt with manual modes from the beginning, the new modes can be used to make things quicker meaning you will not miss that shot that you would have missed using total manual mode. I like the newer modes and use them almost extensively but reserve for the times that come up rarely where the new modes will just not work. But that too takes an understanding of the total processes. Things like limited lighting, timed exposures, fireworks, moon shots, night scenes, & etc.
Also in retrospect I believe that auto has a tendency to give a blah photo unless you know exactly what you are doing and where to take the exposure and use exposure lock. Where manual will let the creative you shine through.

Houstoncatlover

I shoot with a Sony a7Rii. I always shoot in Manual mode, but I use how my subject looks in the electronic viewfinder rather than the light meter. Works for me. Recently, I started shooting some video using Auto ISO so that I wouldn't lose action when I had to turn the camera to follow the subject. Auto ISO does not know what to do with a black cat. That is not new news, but reaffirms that you have to be careful if you rely only on the camera's meter.

nikonbrain Loc: Crystal River Florida

I believe the op is missing the point about manual mode. In manual mode the camera is not influenced by the meter unless the operator of the camera makes the changes the camera recommends .Kinda slow for action, such as birding ,where changing like condition accurs .When I shot birds , animals ,and the like grazing I shoot manual with a floating ISO and I tell the camera the lowest possible ISO and maximum I am willing to accept.... and camera adjusts
accordingly . If I am shooting a white bird or a women in a white dress I will meter the dress or bird and expose for shadow detail and not float the ISO . You have to remember you are shooting positive film not negatives highlights should always be protected . I am just saying each scene has different requirements. It does seem though that I am always in some form of manual but because of the increasing abilities of my camera I am letting my camera do more heavy lifting freeing my mind for better composition ,for instance my d810 has a new mode working in the background called highlight weighted metering not allowing me to blow the highlights in manual mode or any mode I am in even when shooting directly into the sun . The cameras are getting better if you shoot mostly manual let your camera do some of the things it is better and faster at any give your mind more time to be a better photographer....

Bob Boner

I use exposure compensation. Not sure about Nikons, but it is easy to do on Canons.

JuxtaposePictures Loc: San Diego

I'd say it was the light meter that was invented for those who don't want to figure out or are too lazy to understand the processes. With a few exceptions I'd venture a guess to say there aren't many photographers shooting in manual who don't rely on their meter to at least get a starting or base exposure and then alter their exposure from that. That or do the same using their playback screen.

kerry12 Loc: Harrisburg, Pa.

I use mostly shutter priority. However, there are times I use manual. But I am extremely old school in that when I use manual, I also use a hand held exposure meter. This usually happens when the camera's setting doesn't give me the exposure that I wanted or I don't think it will before I start shooting. This is mainly on stationary subjects or outside portraits where I can get a reading up close. An example is, I wanted to take a photo of my front porch. The porch is covered and was in deep shadow on a bright sunny day. The exposure the camera used gave me a dark under exposed porch. I stood on the porch and took an exposure reading with my meter and the porch came out nicely. If the rest of the photo comes out over exposed then I also take a reading at a sunny spot outside the porch and use an average. It will still be closer to what I want than the camera's setting in many cases. I will say that I have taken readings to see if the camera's meter agrees with my exposure meter. Most of the time I will find the camera's exposure is among the choices on my exposure meter. Just my 2 cents.

JuxtaposePictures Loc: San Diego

Not to forget also that using a handheld meter can also just be plain fun.

Meives Loc: FORT LAUDERDALE

I use manual often, but not always. I like to increase ISO when light is marginal. I go to 800 or 1600. I adjust F stop when I do a portrait for a sharp face and blurry background. Or tighter when I want a landscape to all be sharp. I seldom change shutter speed but would if I wanted to freeze water falls. I don't like blurred water.

Toby

I shoot a lot of outdoor night sports or in darker gymnasiums and want to be sure that the speed and aperture settings never go below certain values even if some of the files are dark. I can correct them in PP

nikonbrain Loc: Crystal River Florida

Follow up ..Nikon D810 base ISO 64 , f16 , highlight weighted metering. Aperture priority , not an HDR . Into the sun with no filters , shadow recovery in post CS6 with no noise reduction.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Using M is NOT exactly the same as using T, P, or S. For instance, if you choose M and you do a pano, the exposure will remain steady throughout the pano but if using S, P, or T the exposure settings may change as you pan and as the light changes. Panning on a BIF in M will also keep exposure steady as you capture that as well.

JuxtaposePictures Loc: San Diego

I think that was the OP's point. That a lot of people who shoot in manual are exposing based on what their meter says anyway so it isn't really any different than just shooting in auto (assuming similar aperture/ shutter speed/ ISO settings are being selected)