lwhitehall Loc: St. Louis

I keep on my 7D a Tamron 18-270. I have been to China several times with that lens and have never been disappointed by it.

Kissel vonKeister Loc: Georgia

Takes some folks a long time to send the Canikon virus into remission, doesn't it?

SS319

what kind of record player should I use to play records? - depends on whether they are 78s, 45,s or LPs doesn't it? of course, if they are medical records....

A trip to where? What you gonna see? Will this be a commercial tour (everyone back on the bus in 10 minutes) or a tour by car, train, horseback, rickshaw? Why are you going on the trip - to see someone, or to see something? Will you be taking pictures or doing some photography? Will you be doing street photography or countryside? Landscape or people? can you get far enough away from every subject or close enough? Plan your trip, plan your photography and prioritize your time in accordance with the purpose of your trip. Will your Companion be telling you "take the picture, lets go" or will you be able to spend two days if necessary to get the properly lit shot?

When I first learned this hobby, we used a Pentax K1000 or equivalent (I had a Ricoh) and a 50 mm lens to shoot ... everything. So, that is the answer to your question. Shorter and longer lenses mean only you do not have to walk as much, Zoom lenses take a strain off your back from carrying so much.

Don't forget your tripod - or at least a monopod/walking stick

DRG777 Loc: Metro Detroit

An 18-200 on a crop sensor is very versatile.

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

Thanks everyone for your most interesting comments on this topic.I have learned a lot reading them.

Inglese

Last year I was in northern Italy and took, as usual three cameras. The two most used were a Nikon Coolpix A which is brilliant but a fix wide lens and a Fuji X-Pro1 with 18-55 lens. Both of these allow very good selective enlargements so I found absolutely no need to encumber myself with other lenses.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

I am surprised that no-one mentioned MFT (micro 4/3) or that zooms can be great up to about 3x, but that the compromise in IQ with bigger range zooms might be more than desirable. I use MFT and two zooms - 14-45 (28-90) and 45-150 (90-300) - together a 10x focal range, and lighter than one 10x zoom. In fact the whole kit is so light that I carry an extra body and don't change lenses. In one small bag, including charger and flash etc.

de Vlieg

I gotta disagree. You should be able to buy quality glass whether the zoom ratio is 3:1 or 40:1. The way the lens is corrected throughout the zoom range determines how fresh and sharp the image is.
When a lens has more than a single element, the others are dedicated to correcting geometry, and other issues that crop up as you travel through the zoom range. Another problem I have seen, quite frankly even with pros, they just do not know how to use a zoom. For the absolute sharpest image, always zoom the lens completely in, focus, then zoom to frame your image. The hallmark of a quality lens is that it will track in-focus through the entire zoom range.
When you shop for zooms you often see statements like, "16 elements in 3 groups. 5:7:4". These groups of lenses have the job of maintaining smooth performance throughout the zoom travel. They contain field flatteners and other distortion corrections. With the exception of very wide angle shots (we see this played out with the widest fisheye, which has geometry and focus issues which exaggerate the problem) which can have zones of barrel distortion and focus issues in zone 3 of the photo.
The better it handles it and tracks, the better the glass, price notwithstanding. I usually take a test series for television. It gives me everything I need to evaluate objectively any glass against any other for geometry, sharpness, resolution, light management at all ranges of the zoom.
When shopping, you can create a simple spread sheet on your phone or tab to grade the zoom at each of the calibrated marks on the zoom ring to select the best value. Drives the guy in the polo shirt on the other side of the counter from me nuts. But I think since you can drop hundreds, thousands, more on a quality zoom lens you are entitled to pick the best one.
NB: Especially beware to test the lens carefully if you use an adapter of any sort to mount the lens. A bad t-type, or Oly OM - 4/3rds or whatever adapter can quickly screw up zoom performance as well. A zoom must fit flush and snug when properly mounted. ~Vlieg

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Why take a chance? Don't be a wimp! Bring the "mother ship" - like this young lady -

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

de Vlieg

From the size of that Gear, I sense someone is a Canon fan!

de Vlieg

At last! Someone who knows the key reason you use long lenses. Whether it's a formal or casual portrait, or some other aspect of the scene you want to flatten out the perspective of, a long lens will do it. Running Willy-Nilly closer, further, works if your taking pictures. If you are making photos, then first choice is judicious selection of fixed lenses, with no mounting adapters, then zooms that couple directly, native to the camera. I carry 12mm, 50mm, 50mm macro, 80mm, 14:45mm (Kit lens), 50-300mm and a tube zoom 400-800mm f/8 with a lens to tripod mounting system. I have used them all on my Oly E-30 4/3 format. The latter lens has been my salvation, despite largely inferior optics for mostly nature, astronomy and similar apps. I confess. I cannot afford a quality whopper long lens. Me and my Olys, OM2n to present day, only hike anyplace, usually 2-3 weeks at a time. I am an old guy and disabled to boot. I have, through the years seriously pared down what is in my backpack. Anything I don't use on a typical walk I usually don't bring along to carry again. These lenses continue to survive the cut.

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

Just curious. Who makes a tube zoom 400-800mm f8 lens?

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

I doubt any Hog would disagree with you - if $$ were left out of the equation. Many Hogs (not the Pros) - I for one - need to compromise where cost and performance are concerned. It is possible to save $$ and still get great IQ - perhaps, e.g., accepting the need to refocus following re-zoom, and to buy two short zooms instead of one long zoom in any but a more expensive glass class. Plus, of course, the advantages of size and weight, which is where we came in.

asiafish Loc: Bakersfield, CA

I would disagree. I don't think it is optically possible to create a 10X zoom of sufficient quality regardless of price unless one is willing to carry something that is simply huge and extremely heavy, which of course defeats the purpose.

Given today's technology and the laws of physics, 4X or perhaps 5X is the absolute limit for adequate performance and somewhat rational size and weight. Even then, 3X is better, which is the reason the pro zooms are all 3X until ou got the very long ones where reasonable weight is impossible even in a prime.