Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

I think this is a Nikon game, FM2n is a very good basic SLR.

For Canon, since there are no Canon lenses in the game there is little point to going to the FD series, but an A-1 would be better than the AE-1P, and you can shoot manually with the original AE-1, stopped down metering, set the shutter speed on the camera, set the aperture manually on the lens, center the needle..., works like a charm! Even displays a little flashing 'M' in the view finder!

Bigmike1 Loc: I am from Gaffney, S.C. but live in Utah.

Changing the subject a little bit...I have a number of 35mm cameras but I have not shot film in a number of years. How expensive is it now to buy film and have it processed after shooting? I'm not a pro.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Yep. The A-1 provides a choice of aperture or shutter priority, while the AE-1/P is shutter only. As I recall (just sold my AE-1Ps and Canon book so can't check) but I believe the AE-1P does allow you to see the shutter speed and aperture in the viewfinder, which makes it a little easier when shooting manual...

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Film is not expensive and readily available. I process my own, so can't comment on commercial processors. But if you have the room and are interested in going that route, darkroom equipment has gotten very inexpensive as many people are decommissioning darkrooms due to digital and there's little demand for the equipment, so the prices are low for enlargers, etc. if you just want to develop the film and scan rather than print, a tank, thermometer, a timer of some sort and chemicals are all you need and can be had for less than $25.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

There are many excellent, vintage 35mm cameras that can be bought for next to nothing. I've got a $10 Nikon FG sitting next to my computer right now... works great! A while ago I bought an FM2n black body in like new condition for $24 (with two zoom lenses and a flash). Have also got a chrome and black FE2... all three fitted with MD-12 "AK-47" motor drives. Also a second FG.

However, if you want to use modern, eletro-mechanical AF Nikkors on the camera, you're choices are going to be a lot more limited. So, do some research about compatibility and spend some time researching lenses you might need to add, before committing to anything. I have AI and AI-S, manual focus 24/2.8, 35/2, 50/1.4 and 135/2.8 Nikkors, as well as a vintage manual focus Tamron 90mm macro and a couple manual focus Zeiss zooms to use on a half dozen vintage Nikon cameras. I love those old Nikkors... You know, the ones made with metal rather than plastic!).

Wide angle is probably what you'll want for landscape photography.... However, because they can still be used on modern Nikon cameras (as well as easily adapted and used on modern Canon and Sony), old wide angle Nikkors have held their value very well. I'd love to have a 20mm, but ain't gonna spend what they usually cost, regardless of age. Similar with some of the fast Nikkor telephotos, such as 85mm f2 and f1.8.

Don't fret too much over Ektachrome... Sure, I used and liked E 100 VS and E 200.... I think the latest rumors are that Kodak ain't gonna bring them back from the dead.

But Fuji is still making some very good slide films. Velvia 50 is as great as it's always been. Provia F 100 is quite good, too. I haven't tried Velvia 100 RVP (was only moderately happy with the old version of Velvia 100).

Fuji also still makes Neopan Acros 100, one of my favorite B&W films of all time.

But if you want to work with your film images digitally, you might be better using color negative and chromogenic B&W, both of which you may be able to get C41 processed locally. Most processors will provide scans of color neg C41 film at little additional cost. Or you can scan it yourself. Chromogenic B&W film (Ilford XP2, ISO 400) isn't practical for self-processing, but it scans much better than silver halide emulsions (Ilford HP5, Kodak T-Max, Neopan Acros, etc.).

kb6kgx Loc: Simi Valley, CA

$5/Roll plus $5 processing per roll. And $5 to put them all on a CD. There are only a few kinds left. Not like it used to be.

Went to an air show two years ago. Took six rolls of film. Some 36-exp and some 24-exp. total exposures:168. Total cost of processing (no prints, just CD): about $72.

Compared to $25 (or so) for a 32GB card that will hold THOUSANDS (in jpeg) and SN be reused. Over and over and...

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Sure the AE-1/P offers more than the AE-1, but the AE-1 showed the aperture in the view finder via a needle with graduated display, with an underexposure warning light and a manual aperture 'M' light. This was all emerging tech in 1976. I still have an AE-1 and the manual, although it's getting a little ragged now! The AE-1 manual mode was just a moving needle, fairly similar to the FTb in operation.

whitewolfowner

I agree with the advise for the 8008s; it was a great sleeper film camera and it's auto focus is superb. I have one and will never let it go. The step up from the 8008s was the N90 and N90s and KEH has one for $79 in EX condition. Not sure of what it uses for a battery though. You cannot go wrong with a good 8008s.

Bear2 Loc: Southeast,, MI

Uses 4 AAs.
I have one also in excellent condition along with a 35-70, & 70-210, and a SB 22 Speedlight, all in excellent condition. They are not for sale.

Duane

hiside Loc: santa barbara ca

i have one for sale if interested hiside123@yahoo.com

adm

I would vote for the Nikon FM2, which is a very solid (yet compact) and reliable camera. Mechanical cameras are generally going to be more reliable than electronic ones. They need batteries for the light meter only. I have two FM2s and they have never let me down. I also have two FG bodies,which are decent but more delicate than the FM2s. The FG is very inexpensive and you can pick one up for $50 or even less. If it breaks, you can just get another one. Nikkormat and the original FM are also good options but they are a bit older than the FM2. The FE, FE2, and FA are also very nice electronic shutter options. Unlike almost every other manufacturer, electronic shutter Nikons from that era included one mechanical backup shutter speed.

JPL

What version of the AF 50 mm lens do you have? If it is a newer model, like the G version it will not work on this camera, but if older AF version with connection to camera motor then it is ok.

flip1948 Loc: Hamden, CT

I loved my 8008s but love my F100 even more. At one time Ken Rockwell called it the best 35mm film camera ever...then Nikon came out with the F6 and he gave the honor of 'best' to that camera. He now calls the F100 the second best ever.

Bike guy Loc: Atlanta

I have the older version.
Thanks
Jim

BebuLamar

The lens that you want to use is an AF lens. You own a Nikon DSLR. So my recommendation are N80, F100 and F5. The N80 is very cheap you can get a body for $50 or even less. The controls are similar to your DSLR. The lens is fully functional on it. Older cameras like N90 or N8008 are better built but the controls are different.