Question about portriat lens.
O.K., so now I really need help. What is the difference between a full frame camera and a cropped camera? What is the best use for a 50mm lens?
It is all so subjective. The 85mm on a 35mm SLR was the deal for portraits in film days. It was supposed to be perfect. That is because of the perspective--slightly telephoto. The 50mm "normal" gives a close to normal perspective and isn't considered that attractive. I guess people don't like the way they actually look and need to correct it a little with the stacking effect of a tete. I was a newspaper photographer in those days. Zooms were heavy--expensive--and had soft spots in their focus. Most guys had a fixed wide angle (usually a 28 mm or 35mm), the normal 50-55mm that came with the camera, and a couple of telephotos (usually a 135mm and a longer one). Cost was a big deal. 85 mm lenses were very pricey because they were the "perfect" portrait lens. I'd been around a while before I could afford one. So, I learned that the best portrait lens is really the lens that works best for the situation. I've even used wide angle for a portrait, to include a persons surroundings, if that is an important part of the person. Keep the person toward the center to avoid distortion. All these numbers I just spouted are meaningless if you are using the smaller format digital slr. In this case a 50mm is a 75mm and a "almost perfect" head and shoulders portrait lens. If you are shooting Nikon, you might grab one of those old 50mm film lenses. They are dirt cheap. Just make sure it will work with your camera body . It will have a fast wide open stop if you are worried about that all important important bokeh. Also you can grab all those effect filters, fog , diffuser etc. to fit it and do some real retro playing. I did that. Lots of fun. But mostly it sits in my camera bad and I carry it around. The zooms are perfectlt adequate.
Thanks Michael
I appreciate your response, especially the part about it being subjective. So, it seems like there are no hard and fast rules, just go with what works best for you\me. I have a Nikon D70 and recently purchased a Nikon 50mm 1.8 lens thinking to use it for portraits. I haven't had much of a chance to experiment with it but will do so in the near future.
Thanks for your help!
2Old2Pop wrote:
O.K., so now I really need help. What is the difference between a full frame camera and a cropped camera? What is the best use for a 50mm lens?
What kind of camera do you have?
The
link I posted previously explains about cropped vs. full frame, and why it matters with focal length (down at the bottom). It also explains what a "normal" lens is good for.
Basically, lenses do not distort people's faces. It's just a matter of how far away you're standing. If you stand with your face right in somebody else's, their nose will look huge. Since we don't normally stand this close, it looks unnatural. Focal length dictates how far you have to stand from your subject, and that's why it affects "perspective."
Normal lenses can do good portraits, too, but generally they are not used for head shots. Rather, they're good for more natural portraits that show people doing things, interacting, etc.
taking head shots for a friends facebook...my zoom lens didn't come out very flattering, I switched to my 60mm2.8macro and the shots were great. the zoom lens compresses the image and flattens the face
portrait lens have always been 85mm-135mm (film #'s)(60-100mm digital) shot from like 15' from subject,, remember your hi skol photo the camera was along was from you so you were less nervous
nice-diver wrote:
taking head shots for a friends facebook...my zoom lens didn't come out very flattering, I switched to my 60mm2.8macro and the shots were great. the zoom lens compresses the image and flattens the face
portrait lens have always been 85mm-135mm (film #'s)(60-100mm digital) shot from like 15' from subject,, remember your hi skol photo the camera was along was from you so you were less nervous
Your 60mm F/2.8 is great for portraits. Remember, if you are shooting with a camera with a DX size sensor you multiply the focal length by 1.5 making your 60mm a 90mm. Perfect.
Thanks Randy
I went to the link and read thru it pretty quickly and put it in my faves so I can refer back to it. I have a Nikon D70 and recently purchased a Nikon 50mm 1.8 lens, thinking portraits. I have not been able to experiment with it yet, but will do so soon.
Thanks again.
2Old2Pop wrote:
Thanks Randy
I went to the link and read thru it pretty quickly and put it in my faves so I can refer back to it. I have a Nikon D70 and recently purchased a Nikon 50mm 1.8 lens, thinking portraits. I have not been able to experiment with it yet, but will do so soon.
That is a cropped frame camera with a 1.5 "crop factor." So 50mm is 50x1.5= 75mm on your camera. Sounds like a nice portrait lens to me. :D
Your D-70 is the smaller digital format. The 50 mm 1.8, you purchased, for a portrait lens, should serve you very well. It is equal to a 75 mm lens on a full frame 35mm camera. A couple of folks have explained that. It boils down to your format not being a full 35mm--butl having the same ht. X length relationship. So, you multiply your lens focal length, expressed in mm., by 1.5, and you have what that length would equal on the full 35mm format. I think that is mostly important to us old goats who shot 35mm film and know what the focal length means on that format.. Gives us a way of translating in a language we are used to. I shoot with a Nikon D-200 mostly. I also shoot with an entry level D60 and D40. You can grab used effect filters for that lens on ebay for zip. Most of that is done today on photoshop. That's why they are cheap. But, it is good experience, and a lot of inexpensive fun. My best advice to you is strap that lens on your camera and go shoot. Then you'll learn what it will and won't do. Have some fun. Start with whatever equipment you have--learn it--use it until you see it is inadequate to do something you want to do. Then, buy the piece of equipment hat will accomplish that goal . Otherwise, you waste money on stuff that just sits in the camera bag. If you don't use it, you'll never learn what it can and can't do--and you'll never learn what stuff you really need. Nothing as sad as a guy with a bag full of expensive stuff and no clue.
Recently Scott Kelby's "The Grid" discussed the topic "Why photographers don't improve". During that discussion a top 10 photographer, grossing over $2 million a year gave a tip to stay away from the 50mm for close-up portraits. He's gracious to share that tip with the discussion.
Episode 25 -
http://kelbytv.com/thegrid/Scott pointed out the reason photographers don't grow in their skill is all the arguments trying to justify their use of the 50mm. Stubbornness prohibits them from moving forward. The 50mm has built-in barrel distortion that is NOT flattering to faces in CLOSE-UP portraits.
I don't know about you but I'm going with the top pro's advice. I own a 50mm F/1.4, an 85mm F/3.5 VRII Micro & an 18-200mm F/3.5-5.6 VRII. I'm moving forward.
I don't think anyone here is recommending 50mm for closeup portraits, at least with full-frame cameras. I'm sure that pro was talking about full-frame cameras, not cropped frame.
bwm55
Loc: North Louisiana
Thanks for the great information! I should have mentioned that the camera body was a Nikon D7000 (with the 18-200mm lens)....Very helpful. Now I just need a lot of practice...
Boy I am glad your back.
So I have a D5100 it is a dx if I had a 50mm x 1.5 that would = 75mm lens. I hope I am not sounding silly but that is that right?
bobmielke wrote:
Recently Scott Kelby's "The Grid" discussed the topic "Why photographers don't improve". During that discussion a top 10 photographer, grossing over $2 million a year gave a tip to stay away from the 50mm for close-up portraits. He's gracious to share that tip with the discussion.
Episode 25 -
http://kelbytv.com/thegrid/Scott pointed out the reason photographers don't grow in their skill is all the arguments trying to justify their use of the 50mm. Stubbornness prohibits them from moving forward. The 50mm has built-in barrel distortion that is NOT flattering to faces in CLOSE-UP portraits.
I don't know about you but I'm going with the top pro's advice. I own a 50mm F/1.4, an 85mm F/3.5 VRII Micro & an 18-200mm F/3.5-5.6 VRII. I'm moving forward.
Recently Scott Kelby's "The Grid" discus... (
show quote)
Boy I am glad your back.
So I have a D5100 it is a dx and if I had a 50mm x 1.5 that would = 75mm lens. I hope I am not sounding silly but that is that right?
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