I am wondering if a circular polarizer would bring out the sky.
crazydaddio wrote:
...hence my question on shutter speed :-)
I found anything under 1600 at 600mm handheld was a crapshoot. 250 shutter on a tripod was fine. 1600 at 6.3aperature means high ISO or a really well lit subject. If you are not getting good results handheld....it may be ss...
Crazydadio
Does your 600mm have vibration reduction. I have used a Nikon 200-500 hand held to shoot pelicans in flight and as long as I had the shutter speed at 1/500 they were always tack sharp My ISO for those types of shots is generally 400 for morning light with average sun. I just don't understand why you would have to use a 1600 and such a high ISO unless you were in a very low light situation. I never had much success in shooting birds in flight from a tripod with any kind of head. I guess I am just not quick enough. If you have some form of vibration reduction, you might want to have the lens checked out. Just does not seem right. I would be curious to hear what you find.
Digital1022
With dark birds and light background I'd shoot manual shutter and aperture with ISO auto and up the EV plus one at least. Teleconveters lower resolution, 600mm is good enough.
Nice! You did a good job of handling the back lighting.
Blue herons are one of my favorite birds also, and I never get tired of photographing them. Here in central Kentucky they are fairly common and not too hard to find. Shakertown in Harrodsburg has a small riverboat cruise in May that travels past a rookery in the Palisades of the Kentucky river.
For anyone wondering, that is a sycamore tree and the balls are seed pods. Herons favor them for their rookery sites. Must be something about the branch structure.
Keep up the good work!
I really like your second shot.
Digital1022 wrote:
Crazydadio
Does your 600mm have vibration reduction. I have used a Nikon 200-500 hand held to shoot pelicans in flight and as long as I had the shutter speed at 1/500 they were always tack sharp My ISO for those types of shots is generally 400 for morning light with average sun. I just don't understand why you would have to use a 1600 and such a high ISO unless you were in a very low light situation. I never had much success in shooting birds in flight from a tripod with any kind of head. I guess I am just not quick enough. If you have some form of vibration reduction, you might want to have the lens checked out. Just does not seem right. I would be curious to hear what you find.
Digital1022
Crazydadio br Does your 600mm have vibration reduc... (
show quote)
I will check into that. It does have OS (Sigmas VR/IS). Could be just practice since I dont shoot with it that much...at 150 no problem...500ss is fine. At 600mm, results are generally poor below 1200 and variable to 1600.
(And I rarely use a tripod unless its a stationary subject with long exposure. :-)
Was it an overcast or hazy sky that would account for the white/light gray? If not and it was blue then the solution is to bring up the blue in PP. You indicate you have PS, if it is the CC version you have LR and in Develop there is a set of controls HSL/Color/B&W in either HSL or Color you can change Hue, Saturation or Luminance. I used to favor Color but now almost always use the HSL.
Someone mentioned not being able to follow BIF with any kind of tripod/head combination.
I find the Gimbal head and a sturdy-tall tripod it is just like using a machine gun off a pedestal mount. It swings left/right, up/down and rotates as the birds go by, be careful not to trip on the tripod legs. For birds overhead having the tripod set so the camera is a bit above eye level works, for lower than eye level and if the birds are skimming the water etc below your camera level then you have to set the tripod short or aim the camera down.
Although the tripod adds to what I carry and has to be set up I find that my tracking of BIF is steadier than when I hand hold. Using a pistol grip on the tripod collar of the lens helps but doesn't steady things as much as the tripod does.
crazydaddio wrote:
...hence my question on shutter speed :-)
I found anything under 1600 at 600mm handheld was a crapshoot. 250 shutter on a tripod was fine. 1600 at 6.3aperature means high ISO or a really well lit subject. If you are not getting good results handheld....it may be ss...
I'm going to look into the gimbal head. It will undoubtably be an improvement over my shaky hands and striggling with the tripod ballhead
Thanks
Fran
Ben's nana wrote:
Forgot to mention, that I changed the image size in the menu to DX. I read that it does'nt really change the focal length, but because of the crop factor the image appears larger. I think they called it "equivalent focal length"
Fran
John
I tried your lightroom recommendations on other bird shots...what an inprovement. Thank you for the tip
Fran
Ben's nana wrote:
First Hello from suburb of Cleveland ( I won't say anything about the Steelers)Yes I did shoot these raw. This is all fairly new to me so I'm still learning about post processing
Thanks
Fran
Thanks. I am happy with them! I have to say that I took all the suggestions I got from other UHH members and tried them out. I would still be struggling otherwise. So, thanks to all of you!
Fran
wow great series of shots!! Try a circular polarizing filter which will give you more saturation of sky ie. if blue. Also switch your metering from spot to evaluative> And use cloudy white balance. Good luck and keep up the good work!! I just received a new tamron 150-600 mm g2 lens and am looking forward to taking a lot of bird shots with it. Unfortunatly, I do not have the selection of(big) birds to shoot that you have in Ohio.
REALLY nice, thanks for sharing!
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