SoftLights Loc: New Orleans, LA

I always use a hood and filter but usually remove the filter when shooting portraits, sunsets/sunrise and any other time I don't feel shooting trough another layer of glass is necessary. I leave the filter on while shooting groups, sports, walking around on vacation etc.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Hoods reduce flare from light sources in front of and above the camera. They also protect the filter threads on your lens from damage during impact from a fall. And certainly, they'll protect the lens from impact in most cases. I ALWAYS use a lens hood, unless doing so would contribute to vignetting in the corners of a wide angle scene because I'm also using a filter.

UV filters are really only effective *as filters* in outdoor scenes with considerable haze... They allow the camera to see more detail at a distance. They don't stop the effects of UV reflecting off of fluorescent fabrics or flowers and such... For that, you must filter the LIGHT SOURCE.

Perhaps the most common reason camera store salespeople have recommended UV filters in the past was to protect the lens in case of a fall or splatter. While it will, you are better off buying a flat, optically coated clear glass protector for that purpose. A UV filter robs you of 1/3 to 1/2 stop of light.

Filters of any kind CAN add flare. This is particularly true when photographing stars, or other bright light sources in a dark field. Even the best, optically coated filters can add flare under such conditions.

I tend to use a clear glass protector when working around sand, salt spray, welders, car and horse racers, and in any situation where there is a chance something could fly into my lens and scratch the coating. I'd much rather clean or replace a "filter" than a lens.

However, in a SAFE environment, I don't use filters unless they will provide a justifiable optical benefit or a special effect. I tend to use circular polarizers, neutral density filters, clear (coated) glass protectors, graduated neutral density filters... but only when I need them.

I do know this, from years of going to the old Photo Marketing Association shows: The REAL reason many camera stores want to sell you a UV filter with every lens is that they make a lucrative profit on them. A $49 filter is likely to be marked up 100% or more. They may not make much more than that on your camera body. Stores sell accessories (cases, flashes, filters, tripods, memory cards...) in part because they don't make a lot of money on cameras. Remember film? Flash bulbs? Develop and print services? Those were the ADDICTIVE DRUGS of photography. Those have been replaced by memory cards, batteries, printer ink, and Internet service provider fees... But stores can still sell those non-replenishable accessories.

leftj Loc: Texas

That's why you probably need to remove the hood when shooting macros.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

It's also why some macro lenses have built-in hoods.

I have two old Micro Nikkor macro lenses — a 1965 pre-AI f/3.5, and a 1980 f/2.8 AI. Both have built-in hoods, which work great.

leftj Loc: Texas

Yeah my Cannon 50mm has a built in hood so maybe the shadow thing is not really a thing.

JonClayton Loc: Central Florida

I have to agree with Burkphoto on the use of the lens hood vs the use of a filter. As a former photojournalist, I had filters and hoods on every lens for protection (filter) and IQ (hood). I was constantly moving from dirty environment to even dirtier ones and the filters protected the front element. I still remember working at a child care facility and having one of the kids who was eating lunch (PB&J sandwich) come up and stick his finger into the lens hood and touch the filter and say "whats that?" never was so happy to have a filter on it. Whenever I moved into a studio environment the filters came off but the lens hoods stayed on.

katastrofa Loc: London, UK

Hmm, it seems for wildlife photography, filters can be useful?

leftj Loc: Texas

Don't keep us in suspense. Tell us why.

katastrofa Loc: London, UK

Based on what I've been told... mud?

leftj Loc: Texas

Well that pretty well spells it out.

David Kay Loc: Arlington Heights IL

Did your lens' come with the front and rear plastic lens caps?

katastrofa Loc: London, UK

Yes.

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

...Clear lens filters are especially important for close up porn shots. Just be sure to have several (up to 10) filters "stacked" ahead of time... simply screw off the layers as the shoot progresses. They clean up nicely in the dish washer!

jackpi Loc: Southwest Ohio

Testing shows that filters don't protect your lens during a fall. Waste of money.

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

I recommend a lens hood at all times, and a filter under certain circumstances.

You will find many people claim that a UV (or clear) filter will protect your lens from damage. I disagree. A filter will protect your lens from dust and dirt and fingerprints and maybe an occasional scratch from dust and dirt, but if something heavy hits your lens the filter will shatter, leaving bits of broken glass for the object to rub across your lens. Also there's the issue of flare caused by multiple optical surfaces. The lenses are generally coated to reduce flare, so if you use a filter, make sure it has a good coating to reduce flare.

There are valid reasons to use a protective filter in some situations. A filter can protect your lens from blowing sand, salt spray, mud, inquisitive kids and dogs, and things like that. If you are not in an environment that includes any of these things, you're better off without a filter.

On the other hand, a lens hood can protect your lens from some damage. The only time my camera ever hit the ground was when I had it on a tripod out in a field and the wind blew it over. It fell to the ground lens first. The lens hood got covered in mud but nothing hit the lens. Now if a small rock had been in just the right place, it could have gotten past the lens hood and hit the lens, so nothing is perfect.

Think about it a bit. A typical filter is maybe a millimeter thick and flat. A typical lens front element is several millimeters thick and curved. The curved surface has more strength than the flat surface and the thickness advantage goes to the lens.

This video may convince you. It's 18 minutes.