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Auto ISO
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Feb 15, 2017 10:38:24   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
I use it in snapshots in low light conditions with no flash, indoors or out. One of my programmable settings on my D7000 is for Auto-ISO.

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Feb 15, 2017 10:48:44   #
moonhawk Loc: Land of Enchantment
 
Steve Perry wrote:
I use Auto ISO in manual mode as well. It acts as a an alternative auto exposure mode, allowing me to set my shutter speed and F/stop manually while the camera floats the ISO for proper exposure. Lots of info at the page / video below:

http://backcountrygallery.com/manual-mode-with-auto-iso/

I also agree that if the light is constant, why not just go full manual? Once you have the correct exposure, no worry about the camera getting fooled by a dark / light area.


Thanks for the link--It reminds me I can do something with my Nikons I can't do with my Oly--Change exposure comp without menu diving. I've been playing with auto ISO, shooting my dog retrieving his Frisbee, and I have difficulty getting the dark area around his eyes bright enough to avoid excessive noise. No way to manually adjust exposure comp while in auto ISO.

I can bump it up to one stop, but only deep in the menus, which makes it less than practical for shooting moving subjects in changing light.

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Feb 15, 2017 10:52:29   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
will47 wrote:
How many of you use auto iso and what are some circumstances when you would want to? With speedlite? With manual? When wouldn't you want to?


I only use Auto ISO occasionally with Manual. It's really just another form of auto exposure (as are Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Program and TTL-controlled Flash).

I avoid using Auto ISO in conjunction with any of the other auto exposure modes. IMO, that's just asking for trouble.

On my older cameras, Auto ISO was a feature, but it wasn't very well implemented. On those (2009 models) there was no means of limiting the range or applying Exposure Compensation, which is particularly necessary with any form of auto exposure. As a result, I never used Auto ISO on those older cameras. Now with newer cameras that I began using last year there's an improved version of Auto ISO that I've used occasionally and will use again... but still only in conjunction with Manual.

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Feb 15, 2017 10:53:03   #
fetzler Loc: North West PA
 
Never use it.

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Feb 15, 2017 11:03:09   #
James R. Kyle Loc: Saint Louis, Missouri (A Suburb of Ferguson)
 
sb wrote:
Shooting wildlife, especially with a telephoto - I want to be able to manually control the shutter speed to make sure it is fast enough to use the telephoto hand-held, and I set the aperture depending on what kind of depth of field I want. Then with ISO set on auto I don't have to worry about the exposure. This is especially useful in the late afternoon and evening, when the ISO may get up to 10,000 or so - the Canon 6D handles that without major problems.


=============

Yep! Is What I Do as well.

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Feb 15, 2017 11:05:18   #
WessoJPEG Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio
 
fetzler wrote:
Never use it.


In newer cameras crank up the ISO, Check Some of Regis's Eagle photos, some of the best. She shoots ISO 800 or better quite often. I shoot 6000 plus.😅😆😉

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Feb 15, 2017 11:13:06   #
chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
Apaflo wrote:
That is exactly why it doesn't work well! The lighting is constant and hence proper exposure does not change! Set the exposure once, in Manual mode, and leave it alone to get every exposure correct.

When the scene changes, for example when focusing first on two players with white uniforms and then changing to two with black uniforms, what you do not want is a light meter reading that automatically over exposes the faces of the players in the black uniforms and under exposes the faces of those wearing white. If you let the meter adjust for the reflected light that is exactly what it does. That is perhaps a classic example of when an incident meter reading works better.
That is b exactly /b why it doesn't work well! ... (show quote)


...yeah, this is a touchy issue and *may* just depend on how many shots you are taking. I personally do not use it in my gym world. I may shoot 8-10,000 shots in a typical day at a color guard show (read: costumes, changing floor, pageantry, many groups) and in post I don't want to be messing with noise issues past what I plug-in to begin with. What I *will* do is use the ev function quite a bit, but only per group, not universally (this was a bit of a learning curve, doncha know) that's where the dark/light thing comes in...

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Feb 15, 2017 11:31:32   #
MW
 
I use it about 80% of the time. However, it should be noted that I'm using it with a Fuji X-PRO2 which lets you define and select three alternative AutoISO settings (minimum shutter speed and maximum ISO). I can select which one seems most appropriate for the focal length i'm using and whether or not the lens currently mounted has image stabilization.

I started doing this when after some experimentation I concluded that the camera was adjusting ISO almost the same as Iwould under similar circumstances. An additional benefit is that the camera never forgets to change the ISO whereas I can forget that occasionally.

One reason this works well is that Fuji uses an "ISOless" sensor. I don't think that is an accurate name but indicates that the sensor (made by Sony) gives up DR and becomes noisy more slowly as ISO increases than some older sensors. Cameras other than Fuji use these (though in Breyer rather than X-trans configuration) so I suspect Fuji isn't that unique - rather than sensor performance has been improving.

Notwithstanding the above, anytime a tripod is in use or when outdoors in bright light I just set the camera to the lowest ISO.

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Feb 15, 2017 11:32:39   #
JohnKlingel
 
I use it for wildlife and street photography where the lighting conditions change a lot and you have to react quickly.

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Feb 15, 2017 11:34:14   #
Granddad Loc: UK
 
Never use auto ISO, never.
Dave.

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Feb 15, 2017 11:48:44   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
LFingar wrote:
I find that it works quite well in a gym. The lighting may be consistent, but the scene you are shooting is constantly changing and so is the reflected light that the camera sees.


Back in the '60s, I learned a few things from an old pro who worked for local high school yearbook staffs. One of them was how to use an *incident* meter. He'd take one reading of the *light* in the gym, set his Nikons to the optimum speed and f/stop, and expose 8-10 rolls of Tri-X rated at 1250 or 1600 for processing in Acufine.

His contact sheets showed gorgeous tones, and absolute consistency.

He used the same technique everywhere else, re-metering as the light shifted.

In most school classrooms, offices, gyms, and stadiums, the light is very even and consistent. Using a reflected light meter just introduces inconsistencies due to lighter and darker subjects being interpreted as middle gray. The same thing happens with auto white balance.

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Feb 15, 2017 11:49:54   #
Fotoartist Loc: Detroit, Michigan
 
For most shooting it wouldn't hurt to always use Auto ISO, almost always anyway. Go back to page two and check out Steve Perry's video. Great!

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Feb 15, 2017 11:52:04   #
drklrd Loc: Cincinnati Ohio
 
Never. As a pro I do a test shot or several to choose the best ISO for the job. Then if sports I use the highest shutter speed I can (depends on which lens I use)letting the camera pick the f stop as long as the f stop is where I would like it to be(usually around f 8). If not sports I prefer a fixed f stop of f 8 a\nd usually let the camera pick the right shutter speed. This is just a generalization though. I call it my starting point. If flash is needed ISO is still manually pick so as to balance room light with flash. In film days I have been known to show up on an outdoor shoot and use the old math rules concerning ISO 100 with the sun over my left shoulder and forget to use a light meter.
I think letting the ISO on auto is unpredictable. It could send you into the high range of 25600 and then you would be left with what today is considered a grainy picture. It could cause that digital noise that you do not want in that sunset shot. As a pro I pick a high ISO only if I cannot get the shot any other way, like indoor sports that do not permit flash.

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Feb 15, 2017 11:53:40   #
Brucej67 Loc: Cary, NC
 
burkphoto wrote:
Back in the '60s, I learned a few things from an old pro who worked for local high school yearbook staffs. One of them was how to use an *incident* meter. He'd take one reading of the *light* in the gym, set his Nikons to the optimum speed and f/stop, and expose 8-10 rolls of Tri-X rated at 1250 or 1600 for processing in Acufine.

His contact sheets showed gorgeous tones, and absolute consistency.

He used the same technique everywhere else, re-metering as the light shifted.

In most school classrooms, offices, gyms, and stadiums, the light is very even and consistent. Using a reflected light meter just introduces inconsistencies due to lighter and darker subjects being interpreted as middle gray. The same thing happens with auto white balance.
Back in the '60s, I learned a few things from an o... (show quote)


Works great, except for BIF.

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Feb 15, 2017 12:00:47   #
dgam31
 
I am a new member (today) and so far I find your site interesting, Have been a professional photographer for forty years and an amateur before that. I just wanted to express my condolences to you for the loss of your best friend. I had to euthanize my dog six months ago and I still miss her. She was twelve years old.
Doug

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