Black & White film developing
Nov 11, 2016 20:30:29 #
blackest wrote:
http://www.mentalfloss.com/blogs/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/churchkey.jpg
something like this? To be honest I haven't seen one since the 70's There used to be a big beer can called a party 7 and you would use one of these to punch 2 triangular holes either side one to pour the other to let air in i guess.
something like this? To be honest I haven't seen one since the 70's There used to be a big beer can called a party 7 and you would use one of these to punch 2 triangular holes either side one to pour the other to let air in i guess.
Yep, that's it - you can buy one at the local 7-11/mini mart. Perfect for removing the cap from the film cassette (or bottled beer 😎).
Nov 11, 2016 20:38:10 #
TriX wrote:
We've all done that 😂(and now remember to tension the canister spool slightly to make sure it is turning when we wind off the leader). I've successfully fished out mistakenly rewound leaders with a knitting needle grabbing a perforation. I always used a church key to open the canister when unloading.
I didn't need a church key - I got good at opening them with my bare hands. I just stuck a couple fingers in the light trap and peeled the side of the cassette back.
Nov 11, 2016 20:43:25 #
TriX wrote:
We've all done that 😂(and now remember to tension the canister spool slightly to make sure it is turning when we wind off the leader). I've successfully fished out mistakenly rewound leaders with a knitting needle grabbing a perforation. I always used a church key to open the canister when unloading.
"Church key" = lift type bottle opener... if you are over 50, you probably knew. Otherwise... ?????
I used to buy 100' rolls of film and spool my own film, using reusable snap-cap cassettes. No opener needed.
There used to be cheap, frustrating widgets for extracting film leaders from cassettes, but I never liked them.
Nov 11, 2016 20:48:47 #
blackest wrote:
Any recommendations for unloading a film canister.... (show quote)
A couple of ways.
1. Take it in the darkroom and open it wih a can opener, then put it in a reloadable casette.
2. Buy one of THESE film leader extractors. Some find them to be a bit tricky to use. You develop a feel for it eventually. Excellent video HERE. Good luck!
Edit: Dang, Bill! Looks like we were writing at the same time. I'm a bit slower on my iPhone.
Nov 11, 2016 21:59:41 #
GoofyNewfie wrote:
A couple of ways. br 1. Take it in the darkroom an... (show quote)
That's the one! They suck! Or I sucked at using them...
Nov 11, 2016 22:04:14 #
burkphoto wrote:
That's the one! They suck! Or I sucked at using them...
LOL!
As I said, "Some find them to be a bit tricky to use."
(I wonder how many takes the guy in the video took to get his leader fished out?)
Cheers!
Nov 12, 2016 12:36:09 #
blackest wrote:
Any recommendations for unloading a film canister.... (show quote)
There is a special tool for retrieving a lost leader. http://www.freestylephoto.biz/204132-Kaiser-35mm-Film-Retriever >Alan
Feb 7, 2017 08:02:00 #
That was some very good advice....also developed film in 1968...bought bak a lot of nice memories.
burkphoto wrote:
Start with film manufacturers' recommended develop... (show quote)
Feb 7, 2017 08:29:14 #
Feb 7, 2017 11:59:51 #
It used to be considered undesirable to pull the film thru the light trap again and risk longitudinal scratches . The trap may have picked up some abrasive dust or even originally it had some rough spots.
Loading a tank-I always used Paterson tanks, can be a pain and on occasions the film would just not go in. Think of Leica M3 and earlier and where the film was wound in the opposite direction. If the film had been in the camera for some time, this would mean that there was a permanent bias for the film to want to bend in a opposite direction to that in the tank. It was recommended that film such as this should be left in the cassette for a day or so to get the kink out. Do the new Leica cameras still wind against the natural curvature of the film?
On those occasions when I just could not get the film into the tank, and the the cap of the film cassette had been distorted by removal with the can opener, and could not be replaced, I always kept a film can in either the darkroom or in the changing bag and then put the coiled film in there. Be careful not to cinch the film as this can scratch it.
If loading the film in a changing bag was attempted in a room without air conditioning, the humidity in the changing bag could build out and would also impede the passage of the film into the film reel.
It is essential to trim the leader between sprocket holes and leave enough on the sides so it is possible to round the corners by snipping off a little bit on the corner without going through the sprocket hole. Then the film should be able to be pushed into the slot on the reel
Loading a tank-I always used Paterson tanks, can be a pain and on occasions the film would just not go in. Think of Leica M3 and earlier and where the film was wound in the opposite direction. If the film had been in the camera for some time, this would mean that there was a permanent bias for the film to want to bend in a opposite direction to that in the tank. It was recommended that film such as this should be left in the cassette for a day or so to get the kink out. Do the new Leica cameras still wind against the natural curvature of the film?
On those occasions when I just could not get the film into the tank, and the the cap of the film cassette had been distorted by removal with the can opener, and could not be replaced, I always kept a film can in either the darkroom or in the changing bag and then put the coiled film in there. Be careful not to cinch the film as this can scratch it.
If loading the film in a changing bag was attempted in a room without air conditioning, the humidity in the changing bag could build out and would also impede the passage of the film into the film reel.
It is essential to trim the leader between sprocket holes and leave enough on the sides so it is possible to round the corners by snipping off a little bit on the corner without going through the sprocket hole. Then the film should be able to be pushed into the slot on the reel
Feb 7, 2017 12:38:28 #
Although I have Nikor SS professional reels and tanks, there is a learned art to loading so that adjacent layers don't touch (ruining both). After ruining a few rolls (perhaps not enough practice - I know many who can do it perfectly every time), I just bought an assortment of Jobo tanks (1,2 and 4 reels), and used their self-threading reels, which are a piece of cake to load - just insert the leader and twist. I know it's not "professional", but I've never trashed a roll using one.
Feb 7, 2017 20:45:04 #
I haven't read through all of the posts, but IF you are using XTOL developer, mix it with distilled water. From experience, any iron (municipal water, galvanized plumbing, well water pumps, etc.) will shorten it's life severely.
Also, when I make up my 5 liter batch of XTOL, I store it in recycled wine bladders, (read wine in a box). No exposure to air. Also, check out the Kodak Alaris site for info on replenishing XTOL.
Also, when I make up my 5 liter batch of XTOL, I store it in recycled wine bladders, (read wine in a box). No exposure to air. Also, check out the Kodak Alaris site for info on replenishing XTOL.
Feb 8, 2017 07:45:14 #
burkphoto wrote:
That's the one! They suck! Or I sucked at using them...
I had one--but never needed it. You can hear the leader pop when rewinding. I left it out. And no I never double exposed one....
May 24, 2017 22:19:32 #
blackest wrote:
Any recommendations for unloading a film canister.... (show quote)
If you're wanting to just open the film canister to develop the film - get an 'old fashioned' can/bottle opener and pry open the 'flat' end of the canister. Be CAREFUL to keep the film wound on the spool, you DO NOT want 5' of film getting away from you in the dark! Of course you must be in TOTAL darkness, or a nicely sized changing bag, for all of this, until you get your exposed film onto the reel & into the developing tank and the lid on!
May 24, 2017 23:04:51 #
twowindsbear wrote:
If you're wanting to just open the film canister to develop the film - get an 'old fashioned' can/bottle opener and pry open the 'flat' end of the canister. Be CAREFUL to keep the film wound on the spool, you DO NOT want 5' of film getting away from you in the dark! Of course you must be in TOTAL darkness, or a nicely sized changing bag, for all of this, until you get your exposed film onto the reel & into the developing tank and the lid on!
Back in the day I got quite adept at putting my fingertips in the light trap, prying it open and just peeling it back. no can opener required and I never hurt any film.
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