G_Manos Loc: Bala Cynwyd, PA

In addition to the editing packages identified above, if you're using a popular brand of camera, editing software for it s/b available for free download from the manufacturer. Generally, with that software, you can very easily batch convert from RAW to JPEG at several resolution levels.

don26812 Loc: South Bay of Los Angeles, CA

In most versions of Elements, from the Organizer, select the photos and then use File > Export as New Files. Then fill in the blanks of the dialog box to meet your requirements. By the way, the Organizer will indicate that these photos were exported. The original files are not affected, but you will have to Import the exported files into the Catalog if you want them in it. That is, the Organizer is not managing the exported copies.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

MANY MANY applications do this. Google 'raw image converters for .orf' and you get at least ten pages of responses...

You should have received some sort of software disc with your camera that contains an application that will at least allow raw image processing and conversion. If you bought a used camera, go to the manufacturer's web site and download the latest version for the platform of your choice.

Photoshop Elements, Photoshop, and Lightroom (Adobe apps) do it on Mac and Windows.
Graphic Converter (Mac) does it. Affinity Photo (Mac, Windows version soon...) does it. Heck, even MacOS Preview does it.
I'm sure there are tons of previously mentioned apps that do it, too. Many swear by Capture 1 Pro or Paint Shop Pro.

RichardE Loc: California

FastStone is Windows only...

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

There are at least a couple dozen different RAW conversion programs you can use, ranging from free ones with limited features to very expensive ones with tons of tools.

First, typically manufacturers provide a RAW converter with their cameras. That's free (well, maybe not really... I suppose you paid for it when you bought the camera) and designed specifically to work with that brand of camera, but not others. "ORF" is Olympus' proprietary RAW format, so presumably they provided a disk with the camera they sold you, with their own RAW converter on it. Alternatively, you can probably download the converter from their website (where it might even be a new and improved version).

Then there are freebies like Picassa, GIMP, and others.

Or, there are relatively low cost and easy to use programs such as Photoshop Elements 14 (version 15 coming soon, if not already available.... Adobe updates it just about yearly).

Or there are more expensive, complex and advanced programs such as the Lightroom/Photoshop CC suite (neither of which is truly complete without the other... although some people only use one or the other).



EDIT: No, you don't "save as" from Lightroom.... You "Export" files to convert them into JPEGs (or other formats). With LR you first "Import" your RAW images from the folder where they're stored and create a "Catalog" of your images, next choose the images you want to convert, then "Develop" each image with various adjustments to things such as exposure, color balance, etc. as needed (non-destructively), and then finally Export them. The Export dialog box gives you a whole bunch of choices about where to send the images and how the files should be handled.... sizes, watermarking, format, etc., etc. Alternatively, you can pass images off individually to another, more potent image editing and optimization program such as Photoshop or Elements or whatever you might have available, for more complete finishing than is possible using LR alone.

LR is designed to handle a high volume of images, but with only relatively minor tweaking (compared to programs like Photoshop). I've used it to produce about 500 "proofs" so far today, from a recent shoot, that are being saved as relatively small JPEGs on my hard drive at the same time they are being posted to online galleries. Later when clients select images, I'll go back to the catalog, locate the image, make any minor changes possible in LR (such as different cropping, per the customer's order), then pass each image off to Photoshop for more thorough finishing.

LR and Photoshop are probably overkill for your needs... I'd recommend Elements 14 (or 15) instead. It borrows a lot of the key features of both PS and LR, and is a lot faster and easier to learn to use.

Bultaco Loc: Aiken, SC

v

PSE 14 as said above

Bultaco Loc: Aiken, SC

The OP was asking about PSE 14 everyone seems to be suggesting programs but not answering his question.

RichardE Loc: California

"Morning Star" and "Rob Almeda" answered that PSE will do the conversion.

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Yes, this is the way to do it. You select all of them at once and then do an export.

JohanneT Loc: South Africa

Use your cameras software, Nikon View NX-i works good and canon will also have there software..

bw79st Loc: New York City

I don't really know about PSE 14 but in PS you select File>Scripts>Image Processor.

don26812 Loc: South Bay of Los Angeles, CA

I and a couple of others have indicated Photoshop Elements will do the trick.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

When I posted this, it hadn't been mentioned yet, nor did the OP mention it, his post was what I was responding to....read the whole post before commenting. (like most don't).

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I've been using Faststone since 2006, and I am extremely familiar with it's strengths and weaknesses. Yes, you can do all of the above, but you are working on an 8 bit extracted jpg, not the raw data. Using the Colors menu to adjust highlights and shadows gives you similar control and results to what you'd get using PS CC or PSE if you were adjusting the jpeg. If it were a true raw converter, you'd be making the adjustments on the raw data, displaying the results as a jpeg, then saving the changes or as they state it "converting" to a jpeg or whatever format you choose. Raw converters always work at maximum bit depth captured by the camera, usually 12 or 14 bit, THEN they convert to jpeg. Some cameras, like the Ricoh GR and Samsung NX, use a small jpeg preview for efficient previewing on the back of the camera. If you shoot either of these cameras with the raw+jpg option, the jpg will preview correctly, but the raw file, using the small low quality jpeg, will look pretty bad when previewing. Converting the raw file to jpeg will extract the embedded jpg, and it will be considerably lower in quality and smaller in megapixels, than the jpeg shot by the camera.

So, in a nutshell, as good as Faststone is, the one thing it is not is a raw converter. In this resplect it is closer to Instant Jpeg from Raw, and many other programs that extract the embedded jpeg.

Cttoxdoc

Lightroom Export works well