forjava Loc: Half Moon Bay, CA

OUCH!!! Dispersion is about the behaviours of waves at particular wavelengths, as in fluids, light, prisms, lenses, and chromatic aberration -- not as in photographic lighting. One commenter (CaptainC, echoed by dandi)is correct in clearly saying that "Dispersed light is NOT diffused light."

Moving from dispersion to diffusion:
1) A large source softens, but a small source (flash) can serve as a large source if it is an apparent large source, like a softbox, cloud, or flash bounce from a wall or a ceiling. Diffusion is the principle taking you from a small to a large (soft) source. Clouds are an apparent large source, due to diffusion of a small source (the Sun)
2) Maybe we should agree that bounced flash is diffused (softened). After all, bounced light must come to the subject, say, via the ceiling, from many angles)
3) The hard or soft edge of the subject's shadow will show that bounced light softens -- makes an apparent large source -- compared to less-diffused direct light. This is what you get from diffusion, bounced or not

To summarize, we can discuss the whole question without invoking dispersion ;>)
-We aim light by pointing a source, say at a subject or at a background -- and by use of coatings
-We direct light (1) by reflecting it, say, from on-camera flash, toward a wall; (1) with gobos; and (3) with (coated) lens elements
-We diffuse light by bouncing it and by sending it through the likes of toilet paper
-But we disperse light with optical devices, not with lighting appliances

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

How did this request for help with RE lighting end up with a discussion about portrait lighting?

Anyway, this guy does RE lighting correctly:

http://ronnachtwey.com/skills/luxury-homes-overview/

And these guys get it right with portraits:

http://neilvn.com/tangents/
http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/

http://www.duenkel.com/couples/index.html
http://duenkel.typepad.com/
http://www.duenkel.com/glamour/index.html

These two photographers understand light and how it works for their subjects - and they get it right!
They do not use those awful fong things, nor do they rely on tiny bounce cards, tiny softboxes, camera mounted speedlights, or bouncing off the ceiling. They do use a wide variety of lights and modifiers - mostly bounce or large softbox or equivalent. Flashbenders and Better Bounce Card Studio size are ok as long as your subject to light distances are short - generally not more than 4-5 ft.

Illuminating a subject, as Bill has shown with his senior citizens photo, is not nearly the same as skillfully and masterfully lighting a subject. Study the examples in the links above and try to see what the difference is and why.

dcampbell52 Loc: Clearwater Fl

And here is another:
http://www.photosofmylisting.com/

He and I don't work together but we have communicated on projects and he has given me a lot of good advice.
He doesn't use anything but umbrellas, natural lighting, reflectors, and either off camera strobes or general photography strobes. AND, he travels all over the world doing his R/E photography even though he is primarily in Southern California. He's even done some multi-million dollar houses.

I use umbrellas, strobes etc. for R/E photography in Florida and would ONLY consider using an SB910 or any of the other strobes off camera and either on umbrellas or bouncing off of reflectors to give even / wide distribution of light or to fill in shadows. If I use a popup flash on the camera it is basically to trip the off camera strobes and to use as fill. When I go to a shoot, it is usually my second or third trip to the property. I first go to look when I evaluate the project prior to submitting a plan and bid (I may take some test shots using my on camera strobe to get a feel of the rooms prior to writing a proposal. My second trip is to make a list of things that need to be cleaned up, moved, removed or hidden prior to shooting the property. My third visit is when I carry in camera and lighting equipment, verify that the rooms have been properly staged, make minor adjustments, and test shots. Then I shoot the property. I may return at night if the property has good night time lighting to get some after dark (timed) shots for the portfolio. Typically, I will spend anywhere from 5-30 hours depending on the size of the property and the complexity of the shoot. I have NOT gotten a drone yet to use for aerial shots but probably will at some point in the near future. Once I shoot the property, I provide copies of the shots (with a written agreement with the realtor that he/she will NOT make any adjustments to my images (all of the images that I provide have already been adjusted (in Lightroom) for the best possible presentation in the online real estate programs and the realtor's website. In addition, I will usually provide a slide show (with background music) of the property to be loaded on a viewer or laptop for display during open houses. My work isn't cheap but the 5 or 6 realtors that I work with seem to feel that it is worth what I demand and I don't negotiate. My price is based on the length of time I feel that I need to spend prepping the property, taking the photos, processing them and putting together the entire package.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Yes. I did that deliberately, just for fun. And I hope you prefer the E.H. Shepard illustrations to the Disney versions.

A couple of years ago my wife was in New York and was lucky to find an exhibition on children's literature (Kiddie Lit) and associated illustrations at the New York Public library which included Christopher Robin's original stuffed animals that inspired Milne's writing. My wife turned a corner saw the animals and almost burst into tears...

MtnMan Loc: ID

Bounce might help.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Four pictures - all experiments:
- two (now first and third), taken in a friend's house were some of my first experiments with HDR - Tripod, Canon T3i EF-S 10-22mm lens, all natural light.
- another two (second and fourth) at a different time, but in the same room as the third from a fairly eclectic party. My first time experimenting with three remote 580 EX flashes, bounced off the ceiling with the Sto-Fen 'tupperware dispersers' and a remote controller on the camera.

I'm not claiming that these are good examples by any means, but they give an example of things in the same room with very different approaches to lighting. These were learning exercises for me. As you can see, the front room (third image) has very strong back lighting from the main window. The host seemed to think the lighting seemed very natural, so I trust her judgment on that. By all means comment, but I'm offering these purely as examples and first steps, not as good examples.

For the second pair of pictures, other than the flash guns any other lighting equipment would not have been appropriate.

Edit: Also, I don't know what happened, but when I modified the text here, the order of the images changed from my original sequence. Hopefully you can work it out!

3 bracket HDR - tripod - Canon T3i, EF-S 10-22mm


3 remote bounced 580 EX - showing off Apple watch

(Download)

3 bracket HDR - tripod - Canon T3i, EF-S 10-22mm


3 remote bounced 580 EX - real platinum & diamond tiara - not his!

(Download)

rbfanman

As a last resort, put a white hanky over the flash head, and hold it in place with a rubber band. It works. Experiment with the hanky unfolded-so one layer of cloth over the flash head-or folded for two layers. See which effect you like most.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

That would be Fuji, not Kodak I believe!

bennydnut Loc: Phila, Pa.

Have any of you try to use the "Smith-Victor D-Pack, Diffusion Filter ", you can wrape it on the Flash head, I cut in to size and glue it on with super glue, it works pretty good for me and you only lost 1/2 stop. you can find it in Adorama for $21, and $26 in B&H.. good luck guys and let me know how you made...

kenArchi Loc: Seal Beach, CA

Any small diffuser still makes your flash a point light. It only reduces your light by as much as 3 stops. My main units are umbrellas.
10 percent is lighting and 99 percent PP.

DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX

If you are using a speed light try bouncing off a wall and ceiling corner up high. Don't point your flash at your view point. Set your ISO to 400, f/7.1–f/11 and expose for the brightest point (usually a window or light fixture). Try to compose your shot to only include two walls at about 24mm. You can shoot square into a room. Be sure to correct for verticals in LR. Many newbies make a mistake of trying to shoot too wide. Shoot through umbrellas are good and provide a large soft light. I mostly use a NiceFoto 680W – hand held. I don't recommend shooting with a flash on camera. Sometimes, a Gary Fong defuser will work well but don't get the rubberized floppy one as it falls apart quickly.

(Download)

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

I use this diffuser.... http://www.dembflashproducts.com/products/flash-diffuser/

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

So, barefoot - sorry, I mean nosocks - what do you think so far?

You have had some excellent responses ranging from people like myself that are just beginning to play with lighting to some extremely well versed professionals.

How have the responses measured up to your inquiry, and how do they fit with your needs?

I for one would be interested to hear your reactions.

Take care!

kenArchi Loc: Seal Beach, CA

I only use two off camera Sunpak 383 manual flashes in umbrellas.

Here are two sample photos. First one is for low paying realtors, second photo is for higher paying clients.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

So are you going to post both images with download so that we can at least see the EXIF details, of explain the difference between how each image was created?

Some might find that an educational experience!