melismus Loc: Chesapeake Bay Country

The Nikon to Sony E Mount adaptors were intended for use on the cameras with APS-C sensors. You cannot expect a full frame lens to do tilt-shift on a full frame sensor.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

I do not own one but when needed rent the Canon lenses. It is better than pp as you do not lose half your image unless you have a lot around the image which is impossible in tight quarters. They are expensive but wonderful lenses. If you cannot justify the use vs cost rent one as needed and then you can use different focal lengths as needed for a minimal cost.
For a dslr I would purchase the 14mm one for tight quarters as likely that would be common with trees in a forest or other situations where backing up is impractical.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

I have two TS lenses.... 24mm and 45mm.

I do not use them a great deal, but when I want certain effects they are the only lenses capable of it.

I use the 24mm mostly for landscape and architectural work. Primary use for architecture is to correct for "keystoning" effect. That's not all that critical with most landscapes (and the amount of correction is rather limited with TS lenses... not nearly as much as could be done with the movements of a large format film camera, for example). My primary use of it with landscapes is controlling the plane of focus... either using the movements to increase depth of field... or doing the opposite and using a shallow plane of focus to isolate subjects in an image.

I use the 45mm mostly on crop cameras as a small product/tabletop studio lens. It's particularly useful working around reflections and controlling perspective when working close. Of course, it also can be used for landscapes and architecture, same as the 24mm.

I have used and will likely buy or rent and again use 90mm TS, also. It's a very good close-up/small product lens, too, especially when using full frame camera.

If I ever do a lot of architectural interior work I might buy or rent 17mm TS. It's expensive, though, so I'd have to be getting paid a lot before I'd consider purchasing it! It's also got a strongly convex front element that prevents standard filters from being used on it, making it a little bit less useful for me outdoors for landscape or architectural shots. There are adapters that make possible to use oversize filters on the lens, but they are rather bulky and add a lot of cost.

All are manual focus only lenses. And they are "bricks".... rather bulky and heavy. But TS lenses can do things no other lens can do!

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

My main focus when shooting for work is architectural for contractors and interior designers. I would say that most of my shooting interiors is with a 24mm TSe lens and only use the 17mm TSe for the very small rooms I need to capture. When doing exteriors, I go the other way with mostly the 24mm and sometimes the 45mm TSe.

I originally shot using a 16-35mmLII but have relegated that to more personal use as the distortion was taking too much time in PP to correct, and even then not satisfactorily. For me, the TSe lenses and a geared head are essential for the results I need for work. Even so, there is still processing you have to do and TSe lenses at 17mm still distort to a lesser degree that needs my attention.

For landscapes and trees, it will work just as well as any lens but requires more thoughtful and deliberate setup. The plus is you can shift vertically or horizontally to capture more with less distortion. An expensive toy if someone isn't paying you to use it.

I totally agree with Alan's assessments and usage for product photography. The 45mm is great for controlled table top work. I haven't used the 90, but now am intrigued.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Probably just my security software. Happens once in a while on UHH, I just close the browser and restart it again. I've never owned a view camera, but am well aware of the Scheimpflug rule so using my new PC-TS is pretty intuitive.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

You got that right! The 50 f/2.8 Schneider Super-Angulon PC-TS weighs 1400g and takes 95mm filters. Fortunately, it has a sturdy 360° rotating tripod collar.

rlscholl Loc: California

I have a 24mm tilt-shift lens for my DSLR, and have had a 35mm shift (only) lens for a film SLR for decades. The film shift lens became my "walking around" lens for a number of reasons.
The tilt-shift lens I use primarily for its shift feature. I use it much less than I used the shift-only lens for my film camera, largely because of its significantly greater bulk, and the less useful (for me) 24mm vs 35mm focal length.

ebercovici

That is not correcct. The non-tilting adaptors work just fine for use of my Nikon F mount lenses on my full format Sony mirrorless camera (E mount). The tilt adaptor also works well, but if the lens is tilted to a significant degree, unacceptable vignetting occurs.

melismus Loc: Chesapeake Bay Country

But that is because the circle of coverage of the lens is barely big enough to cover the frame. When you tilt the circle moves and can no longer cover.

ebercovici

That is obviously true. Another thing that I could try is to use the tilting adaptor and reduce the resolution. I think that at lower resolutions the periphery of the sensor is not used.

melismus Loc: Chesapeake Bay Country

Yes. Some FF cameras have a crop mode, which does exactly that.

jim quist Loc: Missouri

I think this is what we used with an adapter to fit a digital cameral on the back.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/385432-REG/Arca_Swiss_014145_M_Monolith_4x5_View_Camera.html

Need a lens and adapter for this one
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/833323-REG/Horseman_TS_PR0_27001_TS_Pro_Complete_Without_Lens.html

forjava Loc: Half Moon Bay, CA

It may be that post processing is better at substituting for shifts than for tilts.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Not really. In post processing, you can't create long depth of field (tilt), but you can simulate very short depth of field. You can also correct for keystoning (shift), but it takes a substantial toll on image quality. So while you "can" use post to help, it is a poor substitute at best. If images will not be printed, or printed small, it is not an issue - post may be good enough.

forjava Loc: Half Moon Bay, CA

I have an 85mm f/2 PC Nikkor -- my first 85mm, with a few extras like a hood and a CPL. For small-product shots.
Decided the PC-E improvements might be not worth the extra money, but today I would get the PC-E if I could have a do-over. That way, I would not have to wonder.

Now, I am having trouble finding a compelling reason to buy any other 85mm lenses.
One possible reason to get another 85mm lens might be to better understand micro contrast by using a Zeiss 85mm 1.4 Distagon.
Anyway, I've so far bought fewer 85mm lenses because the 85mm PC lens serves well in various non-PC situations.