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Sep 7, 2016 10:21:26   #
JimKing Loc: Salisbury, Maryland USA
 
OnDSnap wrote:
If I recall there was a big discussion here on this topic a while back ...I just did a search "Studio Color" and there are several posts...I did all my walls 18% Gray. Ceiling white. Floor is Cement gray. (no paint)


Without even getting into color I felt I had to paint my grey concrete floor. Concrete was just dirty, paint is easy to keep clean and I can walk on it with bare feet and not feel that dusty, dirty concrete feel.

I did choose a neutral roughly 18% grey.

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Sep 7, 2016 11:34:42   #
OriginalCyn Loc: Connecticut
 
Thank you all for your comments! I know that I will be using V-Flats (Sue Bryce had an excellent homemade solution on Youtube) as well as some back drops on a wall mount. I thought I would paint my walls white, but, now I think I am going gray. Most of my upstairs is painted various shades of gray, very contemporary. My ceiling in my dining room is gray and the walls are white. So I am very familiar with gray! I didn't really think I'd be breaking out another gray for the studio:)
And, of course, I will use flat paint!

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Sep 7, 2016 12:05:45   #
OriginalCyn Loc: Connecticut
 
PhotoArtsLA wrote:
With Speed Rail, you make a GRID from which you hang lights and light modifiers. Why? In a small space, light stands, c-stands and what not can get VERY trip-worthy, toe stubbing cumbersome.

Basically, you get some bases, which I generally screw to 2x6 lumber pieces (as feet,) sometimes longer pieces so a 45 degree connector can then be used as a gusset to the vertical aluminum riser. At the top, you can put in corner Speed Rail pieces and then string your aluminum pipe between the corners. If the span is longer than 20 feet, then additional vertical supports are wise.

A versatile thing to do is to put additional support up around the center of the grid, and then add another cross member, onto which you install rotating Speed Rail pieces where you then put an aluminum pipe through which rests on the corner cross piece with an overhang. Then, you can MOVE that piece anywhere it's needed. Works wonders.

Speed Rail can rightly be thought of as "adult Tinker Toys." Except THESE tinker toys are structural.

I even made additional short span sections with their own risers and feet to create a lift system to enable me to stack multi-hundred pound speakers atop one another, the first speaker being on a rolling base I also made. Harbor Freight helps out with this stuff.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=hand+winch

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?AttribSel=Wheel+Type%3D%27Casters%27&CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FUserSearch%253DWheels&RequestData=CA_AttributeSelected&q=wheels

http://www.filmandvideolighting.com/clamandhar.html

You generally want 5/8 inch "spud" stuff in stills photography. Rarely, the JUNIOR size is used.
With Speed Rail, you make a GRID from which you ha... (show quote)


Wow, that is a lot of information. I looked at the links, and can't quite see what you have built. Can you take a snap shot of it?

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Sep 7, 2016 12:06:09   #
JimKing Loc: Salisbury, Maryland USA
 
I've never seen it recommended, but I've always been curious about using flat black walls. The only light is what I put there and the only reflections are from my reflectors. Otherwise dark and uncomfortable so maybe not a good idea but I'm wondering if it's been tried. Well, I'm sure it has, but what was the result.

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Sep 7, 2016 12:08:33   #
OriginalCyn Loc: Connecticut
 
jerryc41 wrote:
As always, I would rely on Google. There are 11,400,000 articles on this topic, but I bet you can get all the info you need by reading just half of them.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how%20to%20build%20a%20home%20photo%20studio&oq=how%20to%20build%20a%20home%20photo%20studio&ie=UTF-8&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.11711j0j4&sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.131783435,d.dmo&biw=1680&bih=925&dpr=1&ech=1&psi=XffPV6S-NcKnesyjkbgG.1473247078669.3&ei=XffPV6S-NcKnesyjkbgG&emsg=NCSR&noj=1
As always, I would rely on Google. There are 11,4... (show quote)


HaHa Jerry. I've googled...and found the same 11 million that you did...though UHH might be able to narrow it down just a scotch. Thanks!!

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Sep 7, 2016 12:11:46   #
wj cody Loc: springfield illinois
 
JimKing wrote:
I've never seen it recommended, but I've always been curious about using flat black walls. The only light is what I put there and the only reflections are from my reflectors. Otherwise dark and uncomfortable so maybe not a good idea but I'm wondering if it's been tried. Well, I'm sure it has, but what was the result.


flat black is good and we've used it in past years. however, as you say, it can feel a bit confining. i would recommend flat gray paint matching a reference (gray) card. it will feel a little more open for you. we changed to that some years ago and were pleased with the result. no reflections but a little more "open" feeling,
hope this is of assistance to you.
p.s. you can also use flat white, given your studio set up, that will not hurt at all, either.
good luck with your setup!

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Sep 7, 2016 12:48:42   #
JD750 Loc: SoCal
 
One of the studios I use has both white and black walls, seamless, and floor is the same color as the wall. And also a big silver backdrop that can be pulled down. If your subject is in out in front of a white wall the light falloff will make the wall appear gray in the frame. You need some space to make this work, so if your limited with space it might not work as well. Remember you don't want glossy paint!

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Sep 7, 2016 13:18:22   #
speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho
 
OriginalCyn wrote:
I am in the middle of planning stage (soon to be building) a home studio in my basement. I thought I was going to go all white...but now I am reconsidering. I need to have a drop ceiling which I think will be white. Walls could be gray or white. Flooring could be light ash laminate or dark....any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!

White is always a good starting point. You'll be amazed how much light a dark wall will "swallow"!

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Sep 7, 2016 13:38:07   #
OriginalCyn Loc: Connecticut
 
speters wrote:
White is always a good starting point. You'll be amazed how much light a dark wall will "swallow"!


Is there any danger in not going with 18% gray? For example, if I found a very pale gray, just so that the wall aren't white white?

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Sep 7, 2016 15:46:57   #
forjava Loc: Half Moon Bay, CA
 
Building the ideal room
There is a lot of value in the earlier posts and I am about to re-read them after commenting here. I did not see much about my theme, which is bringing on-demand changes to the studio – dynamism.

Russ Halford, “Bounce Lighting,” 1958 defines the ideal room, p. 19. A couple of his points: (a) prefer smooth white walls to reflect a lot of light; (b) 12’x15’ – not too big due to light-intensity falloff; (c) start with basic (default) and try deviations.

Building on Halford, here are my three low-cost home-studio recipes that do not permanently change the room itself. These recipes allow for a dynamic color scheme while avoiding paint. Color seems to be top-of-mind for numerous respondents.

Flooring that protects equipment:
I laid down black rubber-like squares (2 square feet each) that interlock. A ten-minute task.
This is in case I drop equipment. In principle, I would not choose black, but I can dynamically cover it with a 6’ roll of paper, as needed. Have used it happily for a couple of months. No issues with my heavily-laden tripod. Try Costco for the stuff I use.

Swappable walls that address color casts:
There are 4x8' foam-insulation panels (R-Tech Insulfoam) at Home Depot. Each panel weighs a few ounces. With these panels, you can erect walls and a ceiling. Though the (horizontal) ceiling panels hold the (vertical) wall panels in place, I suppress light leaks by pinning the panels together with straight pins pushed in at an angle or I push in small nails. This arrangement has left room has a separate workshop, for my wife and a four-foot high chamber (Thanks, R-Tech) on a table top for seated post processing under defined lighting.
Back to the shooting studio, you can cover each panel with white or gray or black or other-toned paper on wide rolls or just go with the silver. I have Savage (Chandler, AZ, via Samy’s) 57-1253 gray tint and 9-1253 Stone Gray).
Now, for an example of the critical need for swapping out the color scheme. I'm photographing 19-th C Boston coin silver today and I know that white-wall reflections are far more obtrusive than reflections from silver walls. You can have extra panels and swap colors, according to your subject. When I shoot diamond jewelry, I don’t want the stones to pick up blacks, so if I’ve painted my walls black, I’m hosed. So just swap out your walls and ceiling, a one-minute task.
There are 2x4’ panels, as well, suitable for use as reflectors with gold foil and other tones. Taking it a little further, you might lower the ceiling dynamically with a 2x4’ panel from 8’ to get a stronger bounce.

Working lights that support focusing:
So you have a safe, enclosed space for controlled lighting. However, there is need for ambient lighting between shots and while focusing. The modeling light on strobe lights helps construct shadows, mid-tones, and highlights when posing a subject and when dialing in an exposure. Modeling lights go off automatically just before the strobes light up. It may help focusing to have strong dedicated light over a subject if you are on a tripod. When ready to shoot, these work lights for focusing need to be turned off. I do this with a remote switch at the tripod. The simplest switch is the Defiant 3-Pack Indoor Wireless Remote Control. You did not ask about this but it is huge. I have a smart-phone Wi-Fi switch as well but simple trumps complex dependencies, big time, at far less cost.

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Sep 7, 2016 18:34:50   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
The studio I planned and have used for years was pretty simple. The walls were painted Zone V gray. I used PVC pipe to make frames from which to hang various colored material. The frame was close to floor to ceiling height and shower curtain hooks held the material in place. I could change the color of the cloth drops to tailor lighting to my desire. Also the backdrops were handled the same manner.

All in all it was pretty inexpensive to purchase yards of cloth as needed. The PVC pipe and fittings were also inexpensive and easily modified to fit any needs I had. The flooring was interlocking rubber padding. I could lay paper or cloth over areas for shooting.
--Bob


OriginalCyn wrote:
I am in the middle of planning stage (soon to be building) a home studio in my basement. I thought I was going to go all white...but now I am reconsidering. I need to have a drop ceiling which I think will be white. Walls could be gray or white. Flooring could be light ash laminate or dark....any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!

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Sep 8, 2016 02:34:59   #
Abo
 
flat white and flat black.



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Sep 8, 2016 09:11:32   #
wj cody Loc: springfield illinois
 
OriginalCyn wrote:
Is there any danger in not going with 18% gray? For example, if I found a very pale gray, just so that the wall aren't white white?


that should be fine - as long as you re using backdrops and some reflectors. also, be sure to paint the floor the same colour.

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