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High ISO Speeds - When to use?
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Aug 1, 2016 03:07:51   #
GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan
 
Apaflo wrote:
On cameras that have a relatively high dynamic range it is extremely useful to use Manual exposure and AutoISO.

The aperture and shutter speed are set manually for artistic/aesthetic effect, and AutoISO makes sure the image is bright enough.


Guess I'm old fashion. In film days I rarely went over ASA 100, normally 50 or less.

Now days I rarely go over ISO 2500, normally 800 or less.

Yes I know I can setup my camera to automatically cover any ISO range but I just don't care for that ability.

One of my auto user settings is now set for 100 to 800 auto ISO, but I don't like using it and actually wonder why I haven't changed it yet?

It's probably just a personal thing sort of like my not caring to use back button focusing. While covering sports games, I thought it would help but it really didn't. My method of photography often changes from action on the field to close up on players and fans and back, very quickly.

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Aug 1, 2016 09:01:23   #
wmurnahan Loc: Bloomington IN
 
RWR wrote:
35mm ASA 400 film was great for sandstorm pictures - didn't need a sandstorm.

True enough, LOL.

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Aug 1, 2016 09:07:22   #
wmurnahan Loc: Bloomington IN
 
GENorkus wrote:
Guess I'm old fashion. In film days I rarely went over ASA 100, normally 50 or less.

Now days I rarely go over ISO 2500, normally 800 or less.

Yes I know I can setup my camera to automatically cover any ISO range but I just don't care for that ability.

One of my auto user settings is now set for 100 to 800 auto ISO, but I don't like using it and actually wonder why I haven't changed it yet?

It's probably just a personal thing sort of like my not caring to use back button focusing. While covering sports games, I thought it would help but it really didn't. My method of photography often changes from action on the field to close up on players and fans and back, very quickly.
Guess I'm old fashion. In film days I rarely went ... (show quote)


I was a Kodachrome 64 lover, that is why I bought the more expensive big aperture lens like my Canon 200 2.8, in 1976 it was $500.

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Aug 1, 2016 09:22:58   #
pdsdville Loc: Midlothian, Tx
 
boberic wrote:
Sounds like an interesting idea, worth a try. Just one question. Spot focus or all focus points. Which will give sharper images? Is a reflective or incident light meter best? Sorry 2 questions. LOL


Remember the lens cap will be on your camera so there will be no image. I usually have mine set on spot metering though. No metering at all. You have to be in manual so you can easily step up the ISO.

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Aug 1, 2016 10:26:37   #
GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan
 
wmurnahan wrote:
I was a Kodachrome 64 lover, that is why I bought the more expensive big aperture lens like my Canon 200 2.8, in 1976 it was $500.


Back then I think my Nikor 50mm f1 2 and Pentax 50mm f1.2 were around $250 (usd) or so but inflation changed that.

If auto focus was around back then I can guess they would have cost another $50 or so.

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Aug 1, 2016 15:30:28   #
bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
 
You might like:

http://newatlas.com/photography-iso-range-setting-guide/44599/

bwa

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Aug 1, 2016 18:52:26   #
dragonswing Loc: Pa
 
amfoto1 wrote:
Today, with digital, far higher ISO are usable than were ever possible with film.

I shot a lot of ISO 50 and 100 slide film.... 200 tops. If I needed 400 in color, I switched to color neg film. With B&W I shot a lot of fine grain ISO 100 and below, but also more than a little ISO 400 (Tri-X, etc.) and sometimes pushed that to 800 or 1600.

With digital, it's another story....

Even as early as 2004, a 6MP Canon 10D was great at ISO 800 in color;



5 or 6 years ago, the image below was shot with a 21MP Canon 5DII at ISO 6400, with no special processing at all... just a RAW conversion using Lightroom at default settings.



Two months ago I shot an event with a pair of 20MP 7D Mark II, new to me, at ISO 8000 and 16000, after doing some test shots, including the image below at 16000...



Yes, there is some noise in the above image, which is a RAW conversion done in Lightroom at default settings. I've made some 11x14 prints from images shot at ISO 16000 at the event... with some extra post-processing.

One thing with really high ISOs is to avoid underexposure. You don't want to have to boost exposure in post-processing, as that will also greatly increase the appearance of image noise. Nikon/Sony sensors are a little bit more tolerant of underexposure at ISOs up to 800, but at 1600 and higher Canon is about the same.

Image "noise" occurs due to heat and crosstalk between individual pixel sites. It's essentially the camera recording an incorrect color at a particular pixel site. In color it can look pretty ugly.

There is noise reduction built into the cameras and in post-processing software. In addition to the NR built into Lightroom and Photoshop, with really high ISO shots I use a more advanced Noiseware plug-in. I've recently been experimenting with Nik NR plug-in, too. There are several others.

In-camera NR is two types.... high ISO and long exposure.... that are handled a bit differently. High ISO NR simply tries to deal with and correct odd colors at a fine pixel level in images. Long exposure NR (1 second or longer) in a lot of cameras is actually done by taking two shots.... the second one being a "blank" shot with the shutter closed, which the camera uses to identify where noise is occurring and then delete it from the first image. (I don't know about other brands of cameras, but in Canon if you have LENR enabled and forget how it works, think something is wrong and cancel the second exposure, the first one is automatically deleted too!)

Another thing you can do to deal with image noise is convert to black & white. In monotone, the noise looks more like film grain, which is a lot less objectionable.

Keeping the cat theme going, even in 2007 an 8MP Canon 30D ISO 800 image is easily handled, the "grain" doesn't even show up at Internet sizes and resolutions...



I've run out of cat-theme high ISO images, but you might even want to use higher ISOs deliberately, for a more film-like look....



Above was shot with 5DII at ISO 800, which it handles easily.

I use ISO 400 as my default with 7D-series cameras. (Original 7D actually got noisier are lower ISOs... maybe they're programmed to turn off in-camera NR below 400.)
Today, with digital, far higher ISO are usable tha... (show quote)


I absolutely LOVE all your cat photos!!!!

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Aug 1, 2016 19:12:23   #
Jim Bob
 
AsiaPaul wrote:
I still think of high ISO speeds as they were used in film days. 100 for sunny days, 400 for sports or night photography. With the new dSLRs having ISO ranges into the stratosphere, I was wondering if any members have suggestions on what ISO speeds should be used when shooting. Do the high ISO speeds still cause grainy pictures?
Thanks
AP

Simple. Always use the lowest ISO that will accomplish your shoot. The higher the ISO the greater the loss of detail and depth. However, there are great cameras out there that produce solid images at higher ISOs.

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Aug 2, 2016 02:33:09   #
dickwilber Loc: Indiana (currently)
 
Jules Karney wrote:
Hi Skiman: In the fall I will start to shoot night football games here in Las Vegas.
I have a Nikon d-7100 and plan on using my 70-200 2.8 lens. ...


Pardon me, Skiman, for butting in, but I have done this. When I first started shooting high school and college sports it was with Tri-X (ASA/ISO 400). Indoor sports were shot with flash! (Some like Gymnastics, Diving & Volleyball where flash would be too much of a distraction during competition, were shot with flash during warm up.) Night football was the one sport not shot with flash where ISO 400 was sometimes not enough because of inadequate field lights. There we sometimes had to push the Tri-X to ISO 800 or 1600. When I went digital I held to the same standard; those early DSLR's were not any better than Tri-X at higher ISO's.

To answer your question, shoot with your 70 - 200 wide open at the lowest ISO rating that works consistently. That should be 400, or 800 or possibly 1600, or if the field is really poorly lit 3200, but I only went that high once in hundreds of assignments.

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