Temporary Tattoo Paper
Jul 23, 2016 17:40:21 #
Silhouette Temporary Tattoo Paper, has anyone used this? I saw a craft project where this sticks to wood, the sliced looking wood pieces. Looks easy for a gift.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Jul 23, 2016 17:42:37 #
Jul 23, 2016 17:44:16 #
Jul 24, 2016 06:20:49 #
PW4GDF wrote:
Silhouette Temporary Tattoo Paper, has anyone used this? I saw a craft project where this sticks to wood, the sliced looking wood pieces. Looks easy for a gift.
Temporary Tattoo Inkjet Printable Sheet, White 8.5" x 11" 1/Pkg $10 walmart 1 sheet.... Ebay 5 sheets for $14
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Make-Personalized-tattoos-5-Sheets-Inkjet-Tattoo-Paper-/221246199953?hash=item33834d1891:g:5UYAAOSwcwhVM-vF
PW4GDF with this paper you will be able to personalize photos of Nude behinds! I look forward to seeing you smiling face in that section.
Rongnongno? Have you no imagination??? Modern Photography is an "Art and craft" Alas there is still hope for you drink a second cup of coffee.
Jul 24, 2016 08:32:07 #
Jul 24, 2016 08:45:11 #
Rongnongno? Have you no imagination??? Modern Photography is an "Art and craft" Alas there is still hope for you drink a second cup of coffee. [/quote]
[/quote] Jul 24, 2016 11:01:53 #
phlash46 wrote:
Rongnongno? Have you no imagination??? Modern Photography is an "Art and craft" Alas there is still hope for you drink a second cup of coffee.
[/quote]Based upon this past week, he's already "wound up"! Maybe, considering the heat, he should switch to Mint Juleps, by the jug.
Jul 24, 2016 15:14:20 #
kamrakid
Loc: Reinbeck, IA
Great timing for your question about decals. I've worked for weeks trying to find the right decal material and wood finish combination so I can put my studio's logo on custom-crafted wood pieces we also sell. Long story short: I've found a material called "waterslide decal paper" (like the temporary tattoos the kids get at the fair -- soak the paper in water and slide the image off the paper). It's a two-layer inkjet product that works very well, but it's really picky about the type of wood finish it likes.
What I've discovered: Print the decal paper normally on your inkjet printer (special papers are also available for laser printers). The paper comes with choice of clear or white background. I like the clear. After printing, allow the ink to dry for an hour or so, then spray 3 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Satin finish to the paper's image side. Wait a couple of hours for the spray finish to dry. The clear acrylic spray keeps the ink from smearing.
The ONLY product that I've had luck getting the decal to adhere to is Minwax's PolyCrylic -- a totally water-based polyurethane. (Somewhere I learned that oil and water don't mix . . . duhhh!) I've only used the satin finish. If you want to stain the wood, do it before the Minwax PolyCrylic top coats, and be very certain that your wood stain is totally water-based. After I've allowed the PolyCrylic to dry a couple of hours, I dampen the wood surface with water, soak the decal paper for 20 seconds, and slide the image off the paper onto the wood. It'll be repositionable, but very fragile. Blot off excess water with a paper towel, and use that to remove air bubbles that may form under the decal. Then let the decal dry on the wood for a couple of hours.
Finally, top coat the wood with the same PolyCrylic finish used under the decal. On our products, we usually apply three additional top coats, and it makes the edges of the decals nearly invisible.
Using a water-based polyurethane has been the key to my success. The decals won't bond with ANY oil-based finishes or stains. They also refuse to bond with raw, unfinished wood! You won't know if the bond was successful until the decal has had an hour or so to dry. If it curls up and blows off the wood, it's back to the drawing board.
Sorry to use specific brand names, but this is the only wood finish I've tried that achieves a really good bond and looks good afterwards. I'm sure there are more products that work, but so far I've gone through over $100 to find one combo that actually works. (BTW, we're using oak to make the pieces, but I've tested everything on pine as well, with the same results.
Good luck!
Jim
What I've discovered: Print the decal paper normally on your inkjet printer (special papers are also available for laser printers). The paper comes with choice of clear or white background. I like the clear. After printing, allow the ink to dry for an hour or so, then spray 3 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Satin finish to the paper's image side. Wait a couple of hours for the spray finish to dry. The clear acrylic spray keeps the ink from smearing.
The ONLY product that I've had luck getting the decal to adhere to is Minwax's PolyCrylic -- a totally water-based polyurethane. (Somewhere I learned that oil and water don't mix . . . duhhh!) I've only used the satin finish. If you want to stain the wood, do it before the Minwax PolyCrylic top coats, and be very certain that your wood stain is totally water-based. After I've allowed the PolyCrylic to dry a couple of hours, I dampen the wood surface with water, soak the decal paper for 20 seconds, and slide the image off the paper onto the wood. It'll be repositionable, but very fragile. Blot off excess water with a paper towel, and use that to remove air bubbles that may form under the decal. Then let the decal dry on the wood for a couple of hours.
Finally, top coat the wood with the same PolyCrylic finish used under the decal. On our products, we usually apply three additional top coats, and it makes the edges of the decals nearly invisible.
Using a water-based polyurethane has been the key to my success. The decals won't bond with ANY oil-based finishes or stains. They also refuse to bond with raw, unfinished wood! You won't know if the bond was successful until the decal has had an hour or so to dry. If it curls up and blows off the wood, it's back to the drawing board.
Sorry to use specific brand names, but this is the only wood finish I've tried that achieves a really good bond and looks good afterwards. I'm sure there are more products that work, but so far I've gone through over $100 to find one combo that actually works. (BTW, we're using oak to make the pieces, but I've tested everything on pine as well, with the same results.
Good luck!
Jim
Jul 24, 2016 16:19:52 #
Wow thank you for that detailed reply, I am thinking ahead to Christmas so I have time to figure all of this out. Did you ever slide off old Polaroid pictures, great interesting images, but in days gone by!
Thanks.
Thanks.
Jul 24, 2016 16:44:10 #
Take spray on suntan lotion, spray it on yourself, rub it in to smooth it out. Print a pic on your ink jet printer, using regular paper.
then put the paper on your area that you sprayed, rub the paper and wait for about a minute applying pressure to the paper. it will almost always transfer to your skin.
You usually need baby oil to remove the pic.
then put the paper on your area that you sprayed, rub the paper and wait for about a minute applying pressure to the paper. it will almost always transfer to your skin.
You usually need baby oil to remove the pic.
Jul 24, 2016 19:28:09 #
dpullum wrote:
Temporary Tattoo Inkjet Printable Sheet, White 8.5... (show quote)
Thanks dpullum, this is the kind of response I like, with links.
Jul 24, 2016 19:32:38 #
mtbear wrote:
Thanks dpullum, this is the kind of response I like, with links.
But here is a link I Like better World-Paper http://www.world-paper.com
Jul 24, 2016 22:36:08 #
dpullum wrote:
Temporary Tattoo Inkjet Printable Sheet, White 8.5... (show quote)
He is the one that has the imagination to think of "Art and Craft".
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