imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Just so you know, I do not trust any DOF calculation ! -and- I certainly would not even consider focusing at hyperfocal distance if i were doing astro photography !! Yes, I do understand all the theories involved - but in this situation, I would not trust ANY of them !!

Leitz Loc: Solms

Oh, just put that sucker in high speed burst, mash the release button and spin the focusing ring!!

Bob Boner

It seems to me that personal attacks are rapidly increasing on this site.

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

I've been around many photographers in my 55+ years with a camera and don't ever remember hearing that?

davidarcangel Loc: Arroyo Grande, California

So what you're saying is "focus at infinity". Therefore an important object in the foreground that you wanted to be sharp could possibly be out of focus. What you wrote regarding the circle of confusion is entirely correct. That's why if the hyperfocal distance is applied correctly the important objects that are at infinity will be sharp to your satisfaction. As a plus, that baby fawn or flower(s) in the foreground will be sharp as a tack (again, accordingly to your specifications).

There are different times when one should focus at infinity, but to state that one should focus "as far away as you can" is very bad advice. The right answer is "hyperfocal distance" for most of the time. Its a win/win.

All this chatter is assuming that the sharpest print is wanted. If an out of foreground is wanted then set focus at infinity.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Hyperfocal focus will barely get things at a distance in focus. Better to focus on something in good light, earlier in the day that is a really far distance away, and mark the position on your lens with some tape. It's a little harder with zoom lenses because the infinity point changes with the focal length on many lenses. The results will be far, far better than using the hyperfocal.

BTW, the definition of the hyperfocal distance is everything from half the HF distance to infinity will be in focus. So if the HF is 10.1 ft, then everything from 5.05 ft to infinity will be "in focus" sorta.

50 yrs a photographer - never heard of the Milky Way Mark.

davidarcangel Loc: Arroyo Grande, California

I've been using cameras for 70 years and never heard that either. Of course it could be my age.

I'm not quite in agreement with your other statement about barely being in focus. Looking at a prints sharpness is subjective. If one looks at a print and considers it sharp or in focus then it is. Others may not agree (Maybe a smaller circle of confusion would help).

Hyperfocal distance is a law of physics. It is one of many factors that deal with "sharpness". If the print is not sharp don't blame HFD. Maybe the photographer stopped down to much (a whole different conversation).

Tracy B. Loc: Indiana

I also heard in a landscape photograph, focus 1/3 the distance to the focal point. I like the app. myself

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

If you want infinity to have the sharpest focus ( astro-photography ! ) then THAT is what you must focus on !! - As a practical matter, There is miniscule if any DOF considerations in astro- photography ( and yes, theoretically there might be - again miniscule ) ....but lets keep it to practicalities.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

That probably won't work because in most circumstances 45% of the field in front of the lens and 55% in back is in focus. Not sure how that 1/3-2/3 thing got started, but it doesn't usually work that way. It's best to take a look at some DoF charts or calculators, and figure something out from there.

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

(The focusing part is not from my statement David!) The following us.

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A semi-fast way to focus, would be to get a depth of field app on your cellphone and have it calculate what suppose to be in focus. Choose the middle figure. It should work fine that way.

I used to figure about what the focus footage should be and set it manually. All but one lens of mine let's you set the footage on the lens ring.

The more precision the lens has built in, the more you can go directly by the dial marking. Most cheaper lenses can do it but the marking may be off a touch.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Please keep in mind that in every photograph there is only one thin plane that is IN focus - ALL other planes are OUT of focus - but for appearance sake, many planes may SEEM to be in focus - AKA DOF.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Just a comment - Winterrose has quite the reputation for trolling this and other forums - just search for the name and you'll see how he works - just sayin'

Zone-System-Grandpa Loc: Springfield, Ohio

[quote=winterrose]Thanks for all that but I already stated the formula in my thread.

Also, you wrote the formula incorrectly, it is as follows:-

Hyperfocal distance = focal length x focal length divided by circle of confusion PLUS f/stop. NOT multiplied by f/stop as you said.

Cheers, Rob.[/quote

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Yes, I stand corrected by my having typed the incorrect verbiage which were the words "multiplied by" in lieu of my neglecting to type the correct words "divided by", however; I should think that you will give me the benefit of doubt whereby my error had been a mere oversight caused by tired eyes rather than my having a misconception about how the formula should had been represented. After all, when reading all that I had written along with the verbiage that had substantially backed up all that I clearly explained pertaining to the fundamentals of the formula, you should had easily determined that I well knew that which I was attempting to explain. There is no way whatsoever that you can deny me of my understanding of the principles of the formula, that is, unless your goal dealing with the matter is nothing other than an attempt tryinig to make me look to be a foolish charlatan who doesn't know what he is writing about. I will, however, go on record and suggest to you that is not what you have attempted to do and for that, I thank you.

Best Regards,
~ Doug ~

Carl D Loc: Albemarle, NC.

If you have a lense with a hard stop at the end of the focus, then go to it and back off just a hair. If you have an electronic lense then go until you see what what looks to be in focus and use the focus magnifier if your camera has one, most do. In either case use a middle of the range "f" stop and that will cover the focal range. All this jibberish about hyperfocal distance is nice but not practical in the field. Take it from an old guy with 50 years experience using Nikons and Hasselblads in the field. We didn't calculate all that stuff. It is nice to know though, but I wouldn't use it myself.