MEB540 Loc: New Jersey

I shoot canon and have adapted an older nikor PC lens, which works great. I have both the 35mm and 28mm lenses, which both together cost me less then an on off brand tilt shift lens. These lenses work great for interior. You just set the camera level on a tripod and then use the shift side to side to capture the room. You can use the camera in either portrait or landscape mode. The real plus for these lenses are that you get just what you need for architectural shots, I don't use the tilt for my architectural shots. I find this technique has much less distortion the an ultrawide lens and that I capture just what I need, and you also get a much larger file on my canon 6d, which is a 20 mp camera, I end up with over 40mp image sizes.

Paul Buckhiester Loc: Columbus, GA USA

Do check out LightRoom since it creates an HDR raw file allowing for full raw processing in the HDR version.

T. Walton Loc: Newton, Kansas

I have been doing real estate photography. I like using my 20mm fixed lens for inside the home. I also use a slave flash unit to help provide additional lighting and do accent lighting within the homes. As far as HDR program, I use Photomatrix and it does a good job. There truly is a massive difference between cell phone real estate photography and more experienced photographers with expensive equipment

mallen1330 Loc: Chicago western suburbs

I've been doing RE photography for over 16 years and have learned many great new techniques this past 2 years from: http://photographyforrealestate.net/

I use an EF-S 10-18mm lens exclusively for RE. For interiors, I shoot bracketed on tripod with two off-camera strobes bounced off ceiling or walls at half power. They help getting close to good color balance. I use bracketing to get shadow detail and nice views out the windows. I use Photomatix to batch the bracketed photos using the fusion natural preset. Then, Paint Shop Pro to straighten, correct lens distortion, and perspective distortion, crop, and size. For some problem images, I use Lightzone to pull up the shadows.

The number one priority for RE photos is straight and vertical verticals. With PSP it's easy to correct this -- no need for an expensive tilt-shift lens. I have all lights on, all window shades open, and can work fast using the tripod and hand-held flashes. For the average home, I spend 45 minutes to an hour, then 3 to 4 hours post processing, composing virtual tour sets, and uploading to MLS and my VT site... For more expensive homes in the $1M range, I spend a couple hours shooting and up to 8 hours PP'ing.

Many MLS systems provide a service or function for photographers to upload photos directly to a listing -- a benefit agents like. Our Chicago area MLS charged a one-time fee of about $200 to set this up. I simply post a zip file with the photos on my site and the MLS automatically picks them up withing the hour.

Providing additional services will help you stand above your competition. I provide a "virtual tour" slideshow, and optional printed brochures. My fees are higher than my competition, but I do re-takes for seasonal changes and re-decorating for no additional charge. See: http://www.foxvalleytours.com

dcampbell52 Loc: Clearwater Fl

When we were selling our house in Pennsylvania, 3 years ago, the agent was going to take the photos with a point and shoot. I told him that I would take and process the photos for him to post. His response was that no one uses the internet to search for houses, so good photos are a waste of time. I told him that he had 2 choices, let me do the photography or we would go to a different agent. He posted my images and had never had so many lookers. He then changed the images to other he had taken and the lookers for the next 3 weeks dropped to zero. I sat him down at my computer, with my images and he put them back up. We had 3 offers on the house a week later. He is now convinced that good images on the internet are essential to selling mid to high range houses.

mallen1330 Loc: Chicago western suburbs

Wow! I hope that terrible agent learned his lesson! That's the opposite of the truth. 90% of buyers find their purchase using the Internet. Good photos make the difference. Today's buyers simply pass over homes online with bad or few photos.

Stinson222 Loc: White Bear lake, MN

There are some great suggestions already posted here. I do Real Estate photography for my Wife's listings in The Minneapolis - St. Paul area.
I have recently purchased a full frame Canon 5D Mark III and love the wide views using my Canon 16-35.

I normally shoot 5 to 7 images for HDR starting at either -3 o4 -4 on the exposure, depending on how much light is coming through window etc,, and go up to +3 or +4
one stop at a time.. (three clicks on the exposure wheel each shot.. ,, lol,, -3, -2, -1, 0, +1 etc,, )
I then combine the images with Lightroom CC,, only 3 clicks of the mouse,, Select the series,, and use Photo Merge HDR,, from the menu.. and it works great.. only minor
adjustments normally after merging.. Normally remove all or most of the glare from outside windows.

I will try to attached a couple taken recently. I hope this is helpful..

Stinson222 Loc: White Bear lake, MN

here are the photos I promised,,
7 shots combined in Lightroom photo merge.

(Download)


(Download)

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I think Photoshop can't be beat (that is for whatever you do, because it can do anything and probably better than any other specific software). As for the wide angle, that depends on which camera you shoot and what's available for that and also on your style!

kymarto Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy

I'm not a real estate guy, but I do think that instead of wide angles with their inherent distortion, you might check out the use of stitched photos.

scsdesphotography Loc: Southeastern Michigan

When I'm doing interiors I use my Tokina 11-16 and my Nikor 35. For exteriors I use the Sigma 18-200.

Hendrickus

always enjoy browsing the msl its a good laugh looking at all the dirty HDR'S O AND YOU CAN USE a efs 10-22 on a ff just pull the rubber grommet off the back and don't go past 11mm

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

There is apparently a trick you can do with a strip of wire that will prevent the lens from going below 11 or 12mm and risking a mirror clash on a FF body....

Hendrickus

yeah you can use wire butt then you have to use a filter

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

You only need the filter ring, you could remove the glass...