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Another Group Shot
May 8, 2016 10:32:38   #
toptrainer Loc: Wellington
 
So I went back to the church and did another first Communion. I opened up the Aperture but then everything went dark. I try to lighten it up but then gets way too much grain. I'm trying not to use a flash because it screwed up my white balance. I'm sure there is a way of me getting it right 'in camera' without a flash, but I'm stumped. 1. can anyone help fix this picture? 2. can anyone explain what I'm doing wrong. Is it also because I'm using a crop sensor? I used a 70D 17-70 2.8 1/30 sec F/10 Iso 3200 @ 25mm. Thank you in advance for anyone that can help.

St. Ann Church
St. Ann Church...
(Download)

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May 8, 2016 10:52:31   #
Szalajj Loc: Salem, NH
 
At 1/30, when shooting a group, your shutter speed would be too slow.

Using a bounce or fill flash at a reduced output, and about a 45 degree angle would add some light, but not overpower the existing light and colors. Flashes work best at shutter speeds between 1/60 & 1/250 with Canon Cameras.

Ask for permission to go into the church at about the time of day you would need to shoot there in the future, and try shooting a live subject at the alter with the ambient lighting, then adding the fill flash at a 45 degree angle try different settings both on the flash, as well as the shutter speed, f-stop, and ISO. It's going to be a matter of experimenting until you get close to what you're looking for.

Each time you shoot in a church, you may need to try some experimental shots before the services begin, to check the available lighting, and what to use for settings to work around the around available lighting.

Be aware of clouds, and their potential for blocking the sunlight, which will severely effect your shots.

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May 8, 2016 10:57:01   #
Jakebrake Loc: Broomfield, Colorado
 
Szalajj wrote:
At 1/30, when shooting a group, your shutter speed would be too slow.

Using a bounce or fill flash at a reduced output, and about a 45 degree angle would add some light, but not overpower the existing light and colors. Flashes work best at shutter speeds between 1/60 & 1/250 with Canon Cameras.

Ask for permission to go into the church at about the time of day you would need to shoot there in the future, and try shooting a live subject at the alter with the ambient lighting, then adding the fill flash at a 45 degree angle try different settings both on the flash, as well as the shutter speed, f-stop, and ISO. It's going to be a matter of experimenting until you get close to what you're looking for.

Each time you shoot in a church, you may need to try some experimental shots before the services begin, to check the available lighting, and what to use for settings to work around the around available lighting.

Be aware of clouds, and their potential for blocking the sunlight, which will severely effect your shots.
At 1/30, when shooting a group, your shutter speed... (show quote)


Good advice.

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May 8, 2016 11:19:29   #
toptrainer Loc: Wellington
 
So I need to learn to live in harmony with my flash? Am I right to try and shoot mainly in Aperture priority?
Szalajj wrote:
At 1/30, when shooting a group, your shutter speed would be too slow.

Using a bounce or fill flash at a reduced output, and about a 45 degree angle would add some light, but not overpower the existing light and colors. Flashes work best at shutter speeds between 1/60 & 1/250 with Canon Cameras.

Ask for permission to go into the church at about the time of day you would need to shoot there in the future, and try shooting a live subject at the alter with the ambient lighting, then adding the fill flash at a 45 degree angle try different settings both on the flash, as well as the shutter speed, f-stop, and ISO. It's going to be a matter of experimenting until you get close to what you're looking for.

Each time you shoot in a church, you may need to try some experimental shots before the services begin, to check the available lighting, and what to use for settings to work around the around available lighting.

Be aware of clouds, and their potential for blocking the sunlight, which will severely effect your shots.
At 1/30, when shooting a group, your shutter speed... (show quote)

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May 8, 2016 12:07:34   #
Szalajj Loc: Salem, NH
 
toptrainer wrote:
So I need to learn to live in harmony with my flash? Am I right to try and shoot mainly in Aperture priority?

Yes, your flash will become your best friend, once you have experimented with it. I'm not talking about the built in flash, but a separate flash unit.

Invest in a good quality flash unit, especially one that has some built in filters.

You can also purchase various attachments for your flash that will give you some special effects, but not your early learning stages of flash photography, just keep them in mind for future research.

Consider if you might be interested in shooting portraits where more than one flash unit might be needed. This will determine the type of flash that you choose for your first purchase, master or slave.

At first I thought that I might never have the need for more than a single flash unit, but for me that was a mistake. With more shooting experience, I now see where more than one flash could have been used.

So, lesson learned, if a sales person asks if you would need a slave or master flash unit, ask how many units the master will support. Purchase a master as your first unit, and you can add more to it if you need to in the future.

Learn how to shoot in Manual mode for the most flexibility.

But know that for group shots you want a mid to high f-stop number, or a smaller aperture opening to have more of your shot in focus.

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May 8, 2016 14:49:35   #
tramsey Loc: Texas
 
One more little tip bring down the ISO and then the shot won't be so grainy

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May 8, 2016 15:30:32   #
Szalajj Loc: Salem, NH
 
tramsey wrote:
One more little tip bring down the ISO and then the shot won't be so grainy

That's a good point that I forgot to mention.

When shooting with ambient light, it is often necessary to boost your ISO, but to keep the graining or noise out of your shot, you really do want to shoot at as low an ISO as you possibly can. So by reducing the ISO, you will need to add light from another source, which is your flash.

Again, you need to experiment with your settings under a number of lighting situations.

And remember that time of day, angle of the sun, time of year, and clouds will all effect your indoor shots with ambient light, and the amount of fill flash you'll need.

Even shooting outdoors, often a fill flash comes in handy to bring out the highlights of a shot. I once shot a GBH (Great Blue Heron) where I used my fill flash at a very high angle, just to bounce some light off of the greenery behind the bird, and it absolutely made the bird pop out of the picture with details.

As I said earlier, your fill flash will quickly become your best friend in many situations. Often, I'll keep it on my camera, ready to use if I need it, but I don't turn it on unless I really do need it. Yes, it's added weight, but there are times when you just don't have time to dig it out and attach it before you lose your subject.

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May 8, 2016 21:16:46   #
toptrainer Loc: Wellington
 
Thank you all for your advice. I have a 430ex2, and 2 Alienbee 800 and 1 Alienbee 1600. I just need a bit more practice.
Szalajj wrote:
That's a good point that I forgot to mention.

When shooting with ambient light, it is often necessary to boost your ISO, but to keep the graining or noise out of your shot, you really do want to shoot at as low an ISO as you possibly can. So by reducing the ISO, you will need to add light from another source, which is your flash.

Again, you need to experiment with your settings under a number of lighting situations.

And remember that time of day, angle of the sun, time of year, and clouds will all effect your indoor shots with ambient light, and the amount of fill flash you'll need.

Even shooting outdoors, often a fill flash comes in handy to bring out the highlights of a shot. I once shot a GBH (Great Blue Heron) where I used my fill flash at a very high angle, just to bounce some light off of the greenery behind the bird, and it absolutely made the bird pop out of the picture with details.

As I said earlier, your fill flash will quickly become your best friend in many situations. Often, I'll keep it on my camera, ready to use if I need it, but I don't turn it on unless I really do need it. Yes, it's added weight, but there are times when you just don't have time to dig it out and attach it before you lose your subject.
That's a good point that I forgot to mention. br ... (show quote)

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May 8, 2016 21:24:43   #
Jim Bob
 
toptrainer wrote:
So I went back to the church and did another first Communion. I opened up the Aperture but then everything went dark. I try to lighten it up but then gets way too much grain. I'm trying not to use a flash because it screwed up my white balance. I'm sure there is a way of me getting it right 'in camera' without a flash, but I'm stumped. 1. can anyone help fix this picture? 2. can anyone explain what I'm doing wrong. Is it also because I'm using a crop sensor? I used a 70D 17-70 2.8 1/30 sec F/10 Iso 3200 @ 25mm. Thank you in advance for anyone that can help.
So I went back to the church and did another first... (show quote)


A little fill flash or lighting in post processing would really help this photo.

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May 9, 2016 12:56:02   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
James, you might want to check this out.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/

Quite a few folks on UHH have read through the tutorials and tried the exercises with good results. It worked for me.
--Bob


toptrainer wrote:
Thank you all for your advice. I have a 430ex2, and 2 Alienbee 800 and 1 Alienbee 1600. I just need a bit more practice.

Reply
May 9, 2016 19:47:22   #
toptrainer Loc: Wellington
 
Thank you.
rmalarz wrote:
James, you might want to check this out.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/

Quite a few folks on UHH have read through the tutorials and tried the exercises with good results. It worked for me.
--Bob

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