Psergel Loc: New Mexico

A few tips from someone who struggles with the same issues.

Just to get a handle on what you are dealing with.....
set your camera/lens up on a very sturdy tripod. Put in live view x10. Focus on a subject at a "typical" distance.
Gently touch the lens.
This should give you an idea of what you're dealing with.

Depending on your lens you may need to turn off the image stabilization.
With everything locked down and using the shutter delay or a remote shutter release, take a long exposure shot (a couple of seconds) of something with some detail.
You might be amazed at the difference....I was. Leaving the "VC" on on my Tamron 150-600 under these conditions turned the image to mush vs turning it off.
I have yet to figure out how to determine if this lens works better with VC on or off when tracking moving subjects with camera on tripod/gimbal head.

As others have mentioned, you probably need to use a much higher shutter speed than you would have thought. Even if the subject is stationary.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Steve Perry's (also a HOG member) I-Book has some great tips...Well worth the $12.97
http://www.backcountrygallery.com/
http://www.backcountrygallery.com/secrets-to-stunning-wildlife-photography/

countrycameraman Loc: SW Georgia, USA

These are great comments. Thanks to each of you. After reading them, I'm sure the problem is my own doing; ie: pressing the shutter button too forcefully when in a hurry. Equipment-wise, I use Nikon D-700 with Nikor 500mm f/4. BH1 Kirk ball head atop Manfrotto 055X tri-pod. I think it's rated for 20-25 lbs. Also the original 1000 ISO setting I mentioned was a typo; should have said 1/1000 shutter speed! I shoot using AF and with VR turned on. Thanks again. You folks are the best!

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

What lens are you using?

Leitz Loc: Solms

Unless you are really jabbing the release, you should be able to use much slower shutter speeds, although perhaps VR should be off. Have you checked your focus accuracy?

Leitz Loc: Solms

See his comment above yours.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

First off, you are using the wrong head and tripod. They aren't right for wildlife photography. You should be using a gimbal head and you should use a tripod that is rated for about 40 pounds. The shutter speed of 1/1000th is probably minimum that you should use unless you have perfect technique. When shooting most wildlife, you're better off at the fastest shutter you can get up to 1/4000th. But 1/2000th to 1/2500th is ideal. In super low light you can go as low as 1/800th but you are going to have only about 1/2 of your images or less, that will be acceptable. This is one reason to shoot multiple images in hopes you get a few acceptable in the set.

Shooting wildlife is an art. There are a lot of factors involved in getting a nice sharp detailed image. Camera settings is the one thing that you can practice and form good habits doing, but holding and using the camera is the other. Things that you can't control but are just as important are the lighting, time of day that you choose to shoot, the wind, atmospherics, clouds, distractions, distance from subject, sudden movements, animal behavior etc.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

Add Continuous servo focus to your bag of tricks if subjects are moving.

Capn_Dave

I thought you meant Shutter speed, but was waiting until you said it. Set your shutter speed to the reciprocal to the mm of the lens. 500mm lens 1000 shutter speed, ISO on auto. As mentioned you might be able to get away with a slower shutter speed if using VR. If you are on a tripod turn off VR as it will introduce vibration while on a tripod.

What are you shooting?

Mark7829 Loc: Calfornia

And why not back button focus?

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Without other details, I would say you need much much much more practice. No one should expect to take a long lens out-of-the-box and be an instant expert. Practice, practice, practice then practice some more. In this case, things do get better with age! Best of luck.

wotsmith Loc: Nashville TN

When I first go a 600mm lens, I thought that all I had to do was to point it at something and get great photos - wrong. I had the same difficulty with focus, etc that you are expressing. Reading and attending a couple of workshops along with a great deal of practice in the back yard has changed that to now 90+% of my shots are crisp. What is the difference?

First of all the lens needs to be micro focused to your body. Some of my lenses have been spot on, but most need to be adjusted. After that the camera body remembers the setting. I was amazed to read that Art Morris (one of the very best bird photographers) re-microfocuses his big lenses before every trip. After that, there is a different technique depending on if you are using a tripod. When on a tripod you, of course, need a reasonable shutter speed, but you need to damp out the shutter vibration by NOT USING a remote shutter release and bracing your face against the back of the camera body while one arm is draped the length of the lens with your hand firmly on the lens or lens hood. then you SQUEEZE off the shot with the other hand. This body contact dampens out the shutter shake. You will have to experiment with the image stabilization to see if it is better on or off. I have Canon stuff and the stabilization works fine on or off the tripod.

Off the tripod, which is the majority of my shots, just support the lens from beneath. I brace my elbow in my (ample) guts and hold the lens about half way out, still squeezing off the shots with the other hand while my face is against the body. With practice, you can squeeze off shots rapidly without jerking. As others have recommended you will have to find the lowest shutter speed that works for that lens. I will sacrifice ISO to get enough shutter speed, which for my 600mm will be a minimum of 1/500; preferring 1/2500 for BIF if enough light. This took a lot of practice in my backyard but it paid off. Also when I upgraded to a version II of the 600mm and upgraded to a 1DX my in focus percentage skyrocketed. I suspected that both contributed to the improvement. Certainly the speed of focus dramatically improved.

So a couple of other points: where is your focus point? and which points are you using? For most wildlife photography, I use a single focus point which I try to put on the eye or on a part of the body in the same plane as the eye. Because if the eye of the subject is out of focus the photo will be trash. For BIF is use the Center point plus the adjoining points for a total of 9 points. Learn to move the focus points rapidly around the screen without taking your eye off the viewfinder, so that you can compose well and in focus.

BTW, I have never seen a good wildlife photographer use a remote cable release on willdlife. When they turn to landscape, yes, then mirror lockup, shutter release, and maybe live view come into play. While I have a large tripod and a good Wimberly head, the vast majority of my good photos are shot handheld, as with fast moving birds or wildlife I can't move the gear fast enough. But if I am going to a place like Brook Falls in AK, then the bears are slow enough that I'll be using a tripod much of the time.

If you go to a place like Bosque del Apache for bird photography, you will see the vast majority shooting like I described. Good luck and keep shooting; it will get better,
Cheers,
Bill

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Go BBF!!!....Cameras should be BBF by default, with the option to set Shutter Button for focusing, not the other way round.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

BBF is not for everyone. My D4s comes with two back button focus tabs on the back, one for horizontal and one for vertical shooting. I use these buttons for other options as for me the regular shutter button on top of the camera is ideal. FOR ME. I find that my shots are better cause I have always been able to activate focus with a soft touch on the button and then pushing it the rest of the way for dead on focused shots. On my D4s, D800, D750, and D7100 focus stays on pushing the button down 1/2 way and stays there until I push it all the way down. Again, the regular button works very well for me. I cannot and would not speak for others.

TGanner Loc: Haines, Alaska

Rest your left arm over the lens, and the camera body against your forehead as you look through the viewfinder while your right hand holds the body and operating the shutter. This will give some extra stability to an otherwise long lens on a fulcrum. You might be experiencing some mirror slap. Practice!