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Help, help! Equipment durability question.
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Oct 29, 2015 18:18:39   #
PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago
 
I use Norman equipment. They handle a recycle time of 2 seconds for rapid firing. I use them for event photography. The unit at B&H is around 1K.

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Oct 29, 2015 19:17:24   #
mwalsh Loc: Houston
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I was never worried bout battery power, I hae six oem back up batteries.

it was bout the flashes delivering at that rapid pace, and without being damaged..(they ain't cheap) I've never needed to push them that hard. For me its typically an hour to 1.5 hours and maybe 60 shutter clicks, never been an issue.

I want this job, it pays very well, but no way am I going to risk letting down the EVP handing me the work.

It has to be a flawless experience for them. Equipment shortfall is not an option.

I'm just worried about the equipment not being up for the job. I am up for it, I know how to chat people up in short time, and get expressiveness/emotion in the shot.

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Oct 29, 2015 19:41:24   #
Wendy2 Loc: California
 
mwalsh wrote:
Thanks for all the feedback. I was never worried bout battery power, I hae six oem back up batteries.

it was bout the flashes delivering at that rapid pace, and without being damaged..(they ain't cheap) I've never needed to push them that hard. For me its typically an hour to 1.5 hours and maybe 60 shutter clicks, never been an issue.

I want this job, it pays very well, but no way am I going to risk letting down the EVP handing me the work.

It has to be a flawless experience for them. Equipment shortfall is not an option.

I'm just worried about the equipment not being up for the job. I am up for it, I know how to chat people up in short time, and get expressiveness/emotion in the shot.
Thanks for all the feedback. I was never worried ... (show quote)


If you push them hard, at full power especially, you can blow them. The mono lights I use are not anywhere near $1000!!!!

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Oct 29, 2015 20:55:47   #
Rich1808
 
Totally agree with sharpshooter. Take extra batteries! Also, If rechargeables top them off the night before. And finally, go outside and shoot stuff at the pace you describe and see what happens. I bet you'll be surprised.

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Oct 29, 2015 23:03:44   #
BebuLamar
 
I don't have your type of flash so I can't say anything but if a flash of that price range can't do such a job I don't it's worth the money.

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Oct 29, 2015 23:06:47   #
PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago
 
My Norman unit recycled at 2/10th of a second at 50 power. It has three power settings.

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Oct 29, 2015 23:13:47   #
mwalsh Loc: Houston
 
Thanks everyone. I took the job. Gonna try to wear out the the lites this weekend.

But I already committed to going for it!!

New kind of gig for me, will hopefully lead to other cool stuff in the future!!

and, I get to see the movie before you can!!!

Unless you got a real cool gig!

Bwaaahaha!

If my flashes wear out half way thru the job, I'm coming to kick all your butts!

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Oct 29, 2015 23:23:54   #
CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver
 
Remember, if you double your ISO, (100 to 200?) the flash will only need to output half as much. If you go to 400, one quarter as much power, to 800 only an eighth as much and with today's cameras shooting at 400 or 800 should be virtually noise-free.


This will extend battery life, reduce recycle time, and reduce the chance of overheating to "slim."

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Oct 29, 2015 23:41:45   #
BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
 
Wendy2 wrote:
Maybe monolights instead. They are certainly more expensive and I would not advise getting them if this is the only event you would use them. But there is no recovery time and you would be able to adjust the intensity of the light.

A pair of inexpensive moonlights can be had for less than $200, and a pair of even better professional quality lights for $300. You can even use cheap CFL's in reflectors with a foot pedal; you can make the pair for less than $100 if you can find a pedal (assuming you already have the stands). Make sure the bulbs are at least 5000 degrees Kelvin.

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Oct 30, 2015 07:40:09   #
Paul Buckhiester Loc: Columbus, GA USA
 
SharpShooter wrote:
It seems to me that you are way overthinking this thing. I use my 600 and shoot it WAY faster than that for hours and it's never melted down or quit. What are you afraid the 580 won't do?
Just carry a fresh set of batteries for each light. As soon as it doesn't cycle as fast as you'd like, throw the batts in. You should get at least 200-300 fast cycles on a set of fresh eneloops or similar. I wouldn't even waste my time on a battery pack. Invest instead in multiple sets of rechargeables. Unless you're going to fire at full power from 50 feet all night.
Anyway, it sounds simple enough to me!!! Good luck. ;-)
SS
It seems to me that you are way overthinking this ... (show quote)


Agree

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Oct 30, 2015 07:41:37   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
Spares and an assistant would be nice.

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Oct 30, 2015 07:43:23   #
Paul Buckhiester Loc: Columbus, GA USA
 
mwalsh wrote:
I am a portrait/lifestyle guy.

I have an opportunity to shoot a corporate event, a movie premiere of the upcoming 007 movie before it releases.

Its a step and repeat scenrio, shooting guests outside the theatre as they arrive. I would be using two softboxes on stands for lighting.

My lights are two Canon 580 EX II speedlights, and I am afraid they will not be up to the pace of the shooting.

I would imagine that during the peak I would be firing every 20 or 40 seconds, for maybe 20-30-40 minutes. The shoot would last 1.5 hours or less, and I am confident the speedlites can handle shooting every 60-90 seconds during the off peak.

Please, I don't need opinions, my opinion is already that my gear is not suited for this work, but I don't want to turn it down.

Does anyone have experience/knowledge on this?
I am a portrait/lifestyle guy. br br I have an op... (show quote)


I'd be more concerned about the soft boxes and stands. Might consider an assistant holding a softbox on a pole.

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Oct 30, 2015 08:31:41   #
chaprick
 
DON'T shoot in ETTL mode (if the light to subject distance remains close to constant). You will get a much different exposure when people dressed in white come up compared to people dressed in black in ETTL mode. Your exposures will not be consistent. Shoot manual mode and set your light output to about f4 (depending on how much ambient light there will be at the time of the shoot - if in daylight your f-stop may have to be higher or your ISO lower) measured with a flash meter at the subject's position. I would shoot ISO 400. If you can keep the speedlites at 1/2 power or less you probably won't even need to change the batteries. Also, don't get too trigger happy. If the shot looks good and they did not blink don't shoot 3 more shots. Make sure you get a good focus point. Also, I would consider using silver umbrellas versus soft boxes. You will get much more light out of them allowing you to lower your speedlite power to achieve the desired f-stop. This kind of event calls for sparkle. Silver umbrellas accentuate sparkle and have great coverage. Just my opinions....

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Oct 30, 2015 11:18:26   #
donnahde Loc: Newark, DE
 
CaptainC wrote:
Remember, if you double your ISO, (100 to 200?) the flash will only need to output half as much. If you go to 400, one quarter as much power, to 800 only an eighth as much and with today's cameras shooting at 400 or 800 should be virtually noise-free.


This will extend battery life, reduce recycle time, and reduce the chance of overheating to "slim."




:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Oct 30, 2015 12:35:04   #
cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA
 
Shouldn't be a problem if you pay attention to the details as mentioned here. My personal preference is a set of Profoto B2s, but they just ain't cheap. Best of luck!

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