Family Portrait
Aug 26, 2015 21:10:14 #
rpavich wrote:
Yep...that much I understood.
Do you know what harsh light or hard light is vs soft light?
Do you know why you'd use either or?
Do you know how to produce soft light during harsh lighting times like dusk?
Do you know what harsh light or hard light is vs soft light?
Do you know why you'd use either or?
Do you know how to produce soft light during harsh lighting times like dusk?
I always thought dawn and dusk was the best times for natural light photography. Both being "soft" light. But, I am fairly new to portraits, so I appreciate any advice.
Aug 26, 2015 21:14:23 #
devolution wrote:
I always thought dawn and dusk was the best times for natural light photography. Both being "soft" light. But, I am fairly new to portraits, so I appreciate any advice.
Sunlight is harsh light.
Harsh light is light that has well defined shadow transitions...and sunlight (because the sun is such a small light source relatively speaking) is harsh.
Soft (pleasing) light has very gradual shadow transitions; think "overcast" where the sky is one giant softbox.
In my opinion (and I'm just a hobbyist) light and light control is just about the most important part of photography.
If you have crappy light...you don't have a photograph.
I'd suggest (before you do this shoot) investing in a book called "shooting in Sh&TTY light" by Lindsay Adler.
In it she covers all the really bad lighting situations you will find yourself in and how to solve them.
Hope that helps.
bob
Aug 26, 2015 21:18:21 #
The lens to use is the one that puts you far enough away to keep head sizes the same if you have two rows (not saying that is the arrangement you need). For 5 , you do NOT need a wide angle, so I would ditch the 28-300 as you do not need either extreme of that lens.
You want to use an aperture that ensures good focus (f8?) so any lens will do that. How much room to you have? If you have enough room from camera to subject, I would use the 80-200. Good, sharp lens and will allow you to stand far enough away to provide good perspective.
The 50 could work, but the the 80-200 at the short end will be slightly better.
Just my opinion.
You want to use an aperture that ensures good focus (f8?) so any lens will do that. How much room to you have? If you have enough room from camera to subject, I would use the 80-200. Good, sharp lens and will allow you to stand far enough away to provide good perspective.
The 50 could work, but the the 80-200 at the short end will be slightly better.
Just my opinion.
Aug 26, 2015 21:23:45 #
rpavich wrote:
Sunlight is harsh light. br br Harsh light is lig... (show quote)
Thanks,Bob. For your time and advice.
Aug 26, 2015 21:25:37 #
Aug 26, 2015 21:30:57 #
devolution wrote:
Thanks,Bob. For your time and advice.
No problem. If you have some specific questions, just PM me.
Aug 26, 2015 21:31:51 #
rpavich wrote:
No problem. If you have some specific questions, just PM me.
Thank you
Aug 27, 2015 06:02:01 #
Bill Houghton wrote:
And remember to look at what is behind your target. Those branches will kill a shoot. Even though her smile is a winner.
You can remove those branches real easy.
Aug 27, 2015 06:09:59 #
devolution wrote:
That lens is on my list, but the budget is thin right now.
Look to see if there is a place to rent. I just rented a D800 for three days and it cost $92. I did not think that was bad. the Lens could be cheaper. I got mine from Lens Depot. good place. Don't know how far their influence goes in other states.
Aug 27, 2015 06:22:54 #
devolution wrote:
Hey, Hoggers. Need some help. Doing a family portrait for a friend. Family of 5. Nikon D700. Should I use my 80-200 f/2.8, the 50 f/1.8 , or my 28-300 f/3.5-f/5.6? This will be an outdoor shoot. I've done a couple of single portraits using the 2 zooms. They were outdoor shoots as well as this will be. For a group, which is better? I plan on using the magical light just before dusk.
Dennis,
Number one is great, except as already mentioned - the background twigs. I would definitely go with the 80-200 mm if you have enough room and there are not a million people in your picture. I love that lens. I also have an 85mm and the 24-70 mm, but the 80-200 mm does give great results, super sharp, and very nice bokeh. Cliff's advice is very good, which is usually the case.
Best Regards,
Tom
Aug 27, 2015 06:33:44 #
PhotoshooterNJ
Loc: NJ
devolution wrote:
Good point,Bill. That shoot was a learning experience!
She still a cutie with those antlers. :thumbup:
Aug 27, 2015 07:50:05 #
I would use the flash at low power or a reflector to put a catch light in the eyes. The 2 images here need catch lights because the eyes look dead. That little pinpoint of light known as a catchlight will do wonders for adding brilliance to the eyes and enhancing a smile. Also use the 50 mm lens but shoot at an aperture around f/8 to keep a good depth of field so that everyone's eyes are in focus. Do not use a wide angle lens--there will be too much distortion and the image will not look good. People's faces will be elongated at the nose and cheeks. Also watch for the directional lighting so you have the light coming in at an angle and not straight on into the faces when you search for a spot against the buildings. Better yet, go check out the buildings ahead of time and walk around the site.
Aug 27, 2015 08:20:26 #
Kenneth Pierce
Loc: Campbellsville, Kentucky
Other than the branches in the upper left corner, If you will turn the subjects with a lazy eye the other way that places the lazy eye closest to the camera, will help some.
Aug 27, 2015 08:22:18 #
Bill Houghton wrote:
And remember to look at what is behind your target. Those branches will kill a shoot. Even though her smile is a winner.
Edit in Photoshop to get rid of that branch and you have a winner.
Aug 27, 2015 08:24:48 #
zigipha
Loc: north nj
if you want the background blurry, then a wide open lens and long fl combination. if you can run 2.8 at 200mm, use that.
opposite if you want the background in focus
opposite if you want the background in focus
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