pithydoug wrote:
One of best books on basics+ on the market!!!! he also has one devoted to flash and another to shutter. Obviously he gets a little deeper into shutter in the last book but i think you'll find your answer in 'exposure ".
I do have the one on flash, also. I may actually read that one first, since I need to read the manual for my SB910 also. When I first moved to Dallas I took a photography class from a guy that drill into us the basics of exposure at the beginning of the class. We also went out on photo shoots and he brought in fashion models for us to shoot. What he taught me 40 years ago has stuck with me.
joer
Loc: Colorado/Illinois
Nisolow wrote:
Greetings all. I have just returned from a great trip to Alaska. For better or worse, I found myself taking lots of photos in good light but either from a moving vehicle (train, boat) or using a handheld nikon 75-300 at the 200-300 range. I shoot in manual mode and would prefer high iso grain to blur. My question is whether a high shutter speed of 1000 to 2500 leads to any image deterioration in and of itself. Is there a sweet spot for shutter speed on a camera body akin to the optimal aperture on a lens? Thanks! I have a nikon d5300 and several nikon lenses.
Greetings all. I have just returned from a grea... (
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From a moving platform high shutter speeds are necessary unless you are looking for a panning effect. The higher the better as long as the light permits.
Just remember to turn off the VR at those speeds to get maximum sharpness.
The lens has a sweet spot which is about 2 stops down from wide open on most lenses, the shutter has none as long as the camera is properly supported or the speed is appropriate for hand holding.
For hand holding I suggest at least 1-1/2 the focal length of the lens. Ex: 200 FL lens; 1/300 shutter.
joer wrote:
From a moving platform high shutter speeds are necessary unless you are looking for a panning effect. The higher the better as long as the light permits.
Just remember to turn off the VR at those speeds to get maximum sharpness.
The lens has a sweet spot which is about 2 stops down from wide open on most lenses, the shutter has none as long as the camera is properly supported or the speed is appropriate for hand holding.
For hand holding I suggest at least 1-1/2 the focal length of the lens. Ex: 200 FL lens; 1/300 shutter.
From a moving platform high shutter speeds are nec... (
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Joer....You mention something new to me....turning off VR at high shutter speeds. Could you explain that? Also, at what point should you turn it off? Basically I just leave it on unless it's on a tripod.
SteveR wrote:
Joer....You mention something new to me....turning off VR at high shutter speeds. Could you explain that? Also, at what point should you turn it off? Basically I just leave it on unless it's on a tripod.
VR works by sampling position about 500 times per second so at high shutter speeds (faster than 1/500 th) you get no improvement and in fact I have heard it claimed that VR actually can make it worse
Quoting Nisolow
"Thanks for the replies. It is pretty much what I have been thinking. As long as the exposure is ok, the shutter speed shouldn't really matter."
Except in Barrow, Alaska. Laws of physics and photography are different in Barrow. It's like a Twilight Zone episode!! (Inside Joke)
DWU2
Loc: Phoenix Arizona area
selmslie wrote:
They don't work well together and could make things worse. It's usually better to turn off IS when panning.
Unless, perhaps, you're shooting at relatively slow shutter speeds and your lens has a panning IS mode.
SteveR wrote:
What do you consider to be high ISO? Sometimes you have to punch up the ISO in order to achieve high shutter speeds. Also, today's cameras CAN achieve significant dynamic range even at higher ISO. Is it as high as if a photo were taken a ISO 100? I'm sure it isn't. Is it acceptable? In most situations....yes.
The following photo of Lake Donner was taken when it was nearly dark. My footing was not good and the camera was handheld. ISO was 2000. Now, admittedly the photo is not as good as if it were shot in better light and lower ISO....but it's decent given the conditions.
What do you consider to be high ISO? Sometimes yo... (
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Steve,
My reference to high ISO was a quote from the OP. I misread/misinterpeted his statement and was curious as to the implication that high ISO was being used as a creative tool to blur the photo by increasing digital noise ....not that he preferred high ISO noise to motion blur in his photos. My bad, sorry.
Back in the day of film I used grain as a creative tool with high ASA but only in B/W.
Myself, I have no problems using higher ISO since my photos are mainly taken in dimly lit churches, el/hi poorly lit sports venues or stage productions. My normal ISO is 3200 on my Canon 7D and 5D MIII and may at times go one or two stops higher. It is all about the light and required shutter speed and/or DOF. I reduce my ISO whenever I have the chance.
I do notice the decrease dynamic range at ISO 6400 and 12800 (compared to say 3200 or 1600). This decrease in dynamic range and increase in digital noise due to high ISO is always acceptable for me to get the shot. When shooting events there are very few do over opportunities.
Your Lake Donner photo is nice, especially under difficult conditions, although my personal preference would be to do a levels or curves adjustment in order to reduce the haze and increase the contrast.
robert-photos wrote:
Steve,
My reference to high ISO was a quote from the OP. I misread/misinterpeted his statement and was curious as to the implication that high ISO was being used as a creative tool to blur the photo by increasing digital noise ....not that he preferred high ISO noise to motion blur in his photos. My bad, sorry.
Back in the day of film I used grain as a creative tool with high ASA but only in B/W.
Myself, I have no problems using higher ISO since my photos are mainly taken in dimly lit churches, el/hi poorly lit sports venues or stage productions. My normal ISO is 3200 on my Canon 7D and 5D MIII and may at times go one or two stops higher. It is all about the light and required shutter speed and/or DOF. I reduce my ISO whenever I have the chance.
I do notice the decrease dynamic range at ISO 6400 and 12800 (compared to say 3200 or 1600). This decrease in dynamic range and increase in digital noise due to high ISO is always acceptable for me to get the shot. When shooting events there are very few do over opportunities.
Your Lake Donner photo is nice, especially under difficult conditions, although my personal preference would be to do a levels or curves adjustment in order to reduce the haze and increase the contrast.
Steve, br br My reference to high ISO was a quote... (
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I'll have to get out my photoshop book and look those up. Thanks.
I have taken many train and bus rides and never worried about shutter. My ISO was 100 at f/8. Never worried about shutter. I don't have IS to worry about. Just practiced good hand holding and shooting techniques. I have taken many acceptable photos at 1 sec with 50mm lens. Some people feel the new DX....Mark.... is going to solve their photo problems. On a train a tripod isn't going to help you. you need some device to help cushion against vibration. Using your body as a shock absorber and these shoulder mounted camera rigs probably help a lot. Keep away from seats and anything solid.
transponder wrote:
I have taken many train and bus rides and never worried about shutter. My ISO was 100 at f/8. Never worried about shutter. I don't have IS to worry about. Just practiced good hand holding and shooting techniques. I have taken many acceptable photos at 1 sec with 50mm lens. Some people feel the new DX....Mark.... is going to solve their photo problems. On a train a tripod isn't going to help you. you need some device to help cushion against vibration. Using your body as a shock absorber and these shoulder mounted camera rigs probably help a lot. Keep away from seats and anything solid.
I have taken many train and bus rides and never wo... (
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I would imagine your focus point was at quite a distance, however. Am I correct?
transponder wrote:
I have taken many train and bus rides and never worried about shutter. My ISO was 100 at f/8. Never worried about shutter. I don't have IS to worry about. Just practiced good hand holding and shooting techniques. I have taken many acceptable photos at 1 sec with 50mm lens. Some people feel the new DX....Mark.... is going to solve their photo problems. On a train a tripod isn't going to help you. you need some device to help cushion against vibration. Using your body as a shock absorber and these shoulder mounted camera rigs probably help a lot. Keep away from seats and anything solid.
I have taken many train and bus rides and never wo... (
show quote)
You are STEADY! I'll hand hold to 1/15 s, but 1 s?
Bram boy
Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Nisolow wrote:
Greetings all. I have just returned from a great trip to Alaska. For better or worse, I found myself taking lots of photos in good light but either from a moving vehicle (train, boat) or using a handheld nikon 75-300 at the 200-300 range. I shoot in manual mode and would prefer high iso grain to blur. My question is whether a high shutter speed of 1000 to 2500 leads to any image deterioration in and of itself. Is there a sweet spot for shutter speed on a camera body akin to the optimal aperture on a lens? Thanks! I have a nikon d5300 and several nikon lenses.
Greetings all. I have just returned from a grea... (
show quote)
I have the same lens with vr and on a sunny day I can shoot BIF at 1/2000sec or even 1/1700 at iso 350. And they look ok . Even on a day where you don't see the sun , I lower shutter and or boost iso . What ever works for you .
joer
Loc: Colorado/Illinois
SteveR wrote:
Joer....You mention something new to me....turning off VR at high shutter speeds. Could you explain that? Also, at what point should you turn it off? Basically I just leave it on unless it's on a tripod.
VR slows things down when its being activated. Its designed to correct for a small amount of camera movement. A fast enough shutter speed will stop action regardless of how its generated. It will be sharper than if the VR is on.
With the right shutter speed you could intentionally move the camera and still get a sharp picture.
I recommend the reciprocal of 1-1/2 times or faster of the focal length of the lens you are using including any TC attached. This can vary slightly depending on your steadiness.
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