question..
Jun 8, 2015 00:44:20 #
Jun 8, 2015 05:44:55 #
Jwshelton
Loc: Denver,CO
Excellent suggestion to use aperture priority. Also, look at your histogram! Use that to adjust yout EV. Take pictures and enjoy while you are learning.
Jun 8, 2015 06:44:14 #
This article might help. They also cover A and S Modes in separate articles.
http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/programmed-auto-a-helpful-overlooked-exposure-mode-on-dslr-cameras/
http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/programmed-auto-a-helpful-overlooked-exposure-mode-on-dslr-cameras/
Jun 8, 2015 07:55:38 #
Search the internet for copies of the old camera settings guide that came with every roll of film. In there you will find recommendations for easy to understand conditions such as sunny bright, overcast, light shade, heavy shade etc. Cut out the chart and carry it with you.
Settings in a narrow range will not be that critical if you do your own PP. For example, both f4 and f5.6, will probably both yield usable results if you adjust brightness later in PP. (If you do not yet do your own PP, learn that first)
I'm betting that once you try (and maybe learn) full manual you will find it not worth the effort. Having learned photography when the only guide you had was the flimsy sheet in the film box, I can mentally "see" suitable setting ranges before I bring the camera to my eye. If the camera recommends settings within that range I concentrate of composition, focus and timing, and let the camera do the mathematical calculations.
Settings in a narrow range will not be that critical if you do your own PP. For example, both f4 and f5.6, will probably both yield usable results if you adjust brightness later in PP. (If you do not yet do your own PP, learn that first)
I'm betting that once you try (and maybe learn) full manual you will find it not worth the effort. Having learned photography when the only guide you had was the flimsy sheet in the film box, I can mentally "see" suitable setting ranges before I bring the camera to my eye. If the camera recommends settings within that range I concentrate of composition, focus and timing, and let the camera do the mathematical calculations.
Jun 8, 2015 08:17:21 #
joe west wrote:
i shoot in [P] mode trying to go too manual,
what would be the general setting to shoot landscape, buildings
on a nice day, not real sunny
what would be the general setting to shoot landscape, buildings
on a nice day, not real sunny
Geese, I've never even used the Program (P) or Full Auto (Green) settings on my DSLRs. I use about 60% Aperture Priority, 20% Shutter Priority, and 20% Manual. I look anyway to see what the camera is doing.
I concur with LarryFB
A good starting point would be:
ISO 100
Shutter speed 1/100
Aperture F/11
But exhale as you squeeze the shutter.
or if you are using a longer lens or you are unsteady.
ISO 100
Shutter Speed 1/400
Aperture F/5.6
But be careful that F/5.6 is giving you enough DoF. If not, try
ISO 100
Shutter Speed 1/200
Aperture F/8
And exhale as you squeeze the shutter.
Using the exhale method I can shoot hand held down to 1/15 second. But I have been doing photography for 36+ years.
Jun 8, 2015 08:22:54 #
Where did people get the idea that if you shoot in Manual you are not or can not use(ing) the camera's meter?
On manual I only have to use a Hand Held Meter with my oldest manual Film lenses. But then again I can function with a film camera with no batteries in it. All in my head and eye. Know the light!
On manual I only have to use a Hand Held Meter with my oldest manual Film lenses. But then again I can function with a film camera with no batteries in it. All in my head and eye. Know the light!
Jun 8, 2015 08:50:46 #
SharpShooter wrote:
Joe, I have two questions! br 1, What's your rush ... (show quote)
Well #2 is not exactly correct. the light meter will read the reflected light from your subject. The meter will then correct it the reading for you. That is if it reads a sandy beach on a bright day it will tend to give you a reading that will darken it down. If it is reading a dark subject on an overcast day, it will read it as too dark and give you a reading that will lighten it up. So when using the light meter, you have to read the scene yourself. For a beginner, I recommend shooting the scene, using the settings the camera says, to get the correct exposure according to the camera. Then based on the subject matter, the sandy beach in bright sunlight, open up 1/2 to 1 stop and take another shot. then compare the two in post processing. You will eventually learn the correct exposure for the scene you are taking. (experience). The only way to get there, is to keep shooting and reviewing.
Jun 8, 2015 10:30:20 #
ole sarg
Loc: south florida
90% of the shots you take can be done in P or any of the other choices. Why manual? Learn how to compose first and then worry about learning how to reprogram the computer you call a camera.
Tell me - do you program your computer to send e mails?
Put the camera in P use it and use your exposure compensation dial and save the trouble of fiddling with the camera.
Or buy an older film camera one without an internal meter and learn manual.
Manual is highly overrated!
Tell me - do you program your computer to send e mails?
Put the camera in P use it and use your exposure compensation dial and save the trouble of fiddling with the camera.
Or buy an older film camera one without an internal meter and learn manual.
Manual is highly overrated!
Jun 8, 2015 10:31:52 #
sueyeisert
Loc: New Jersey
You need to think about what you're shooting. Always start with a low ISO i.e. 100/200. Landscapes, buildings don't move so you can have a slow shutter speed which will allow an f stop with greater depth of field F16 or F22.
joe west wrote:
i shoot in [P] mode trying to go too manual,
what would be the general setting to shoot landscape, buildings
on a nice day, not real sunny
what would be the general setting to shoot landscape, buildings
on a nice day, not real sunny
Jun 8, 2015 11:53:28 #
joe west wrote:
i shoot in [P] mode trying to go too manual,
what would be the general setting to shoot landscape, buildings
on a nice day, not real sunny
what would be the general setting to shoot landscape, buildings
on a nice day, not real sunny
aperture -> (A) mode, F 8, ISO 250 + Auto ISO
Shoot Away, Have Fun
Jun 8, 2015 12:11:09 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
You should buy the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson.
"Going manual" just for the sake of going manual is sort of silly.
There are times and places where manual is the best exposure mode to use. But there also situations where it won't work and either aperture priority, shutter priority, manual with auto ISO or even program would be a better choice.
The best photographers don't use just one mode. They use the mode that's most appropriate for the particular situation they're trying to shoot. You should experiment with each and learn how they work, when each mode has advantages or disadvantages.
When using the auto exposure modes, it's also important to know when and how to use exposure compensation to override the auto settings. What it comes down to is that the built-in reflective metering system of any camera can only do so much. It's got limitations that can cause poor exposures. Exposure compensation is necessary to "correct" some of the "errors" inherent to reflective metering.
There are several ways to do this... which is one of the main topics covered in the Peterson's book. It's far more info than we can ever provide here. (After all, it fills a book!).
Something Peterson doesn't cover is incident light meters. These operate differently than the reflective meter in your camera. An incident meter measures the light falling onto a subject, rather than what's being reflected off of is. This makes incident meters far more accurate, when used correctly. So one of the methods of arriving at accurate exposures is a separate, handheld incident meter.
With experience you also can learn to eyeball exposures. And the image playback an histogram available on most DSLRs is great feedback to confirm your settings.
Abso-frickin'-lutely NOT!
Manual + auto ISO is not manual. It's just another auto exposure mode.
Any AE mode, such as aperture priority (A or Av) + Auto ISO is piling one form of auto exposure on top of another form of auto exposure. Who knows what you'll get or whether or not it will be possible to accurately tweak it, as is necessary with any AE mode.
My recommendations...
1. If you use Auto ISO at all, use it with M. Just understand that when you do so, M is no longer manual.
2. Never use Auto ISO in conjunction with any AE mode... I cannot imagine any situation where that would serve any purpose.
3. Auto ISO implementation varies a lot depending upon the specific camera. Older models didn't have it at all, of course. Some cameras provide Auto ISO with only a very limited range. Worse, some do not allow you to adjust Exposure Compensation in Auto ISO. To be truly useful, Auto ISO must have upper and lower limit caps that can be set by the user and you absolutely must be able to use Exposure Compensation with it. Any camera lacking E.C., in particular, on Auto ISO, I simply wouldn't use it very much, if at all. There is plenty of adjustability in exposures using the other parameters: aperture and shutter speed.
"Going manual" just for the sake of going manual is sort of silly.
There are times and places where manual is the best exposure mode to use. But there also situations where it won't work and either aperture priority, shutter priority, manual with auto ISO or even program would be a better choice.
The best photographers don't use just one mode. They use the mode that's most appropriate for the particular situation they're trying to shoot. You should experiment with each and learn how they work, when each mode has advantages or disadvantages.
When using the auto exposure modes, it's also important to know when and how to use exposure compensation to override the auto settings. What it comes down to is that the built-in reflective metering system of any camera can only do so much. It's got limitations that can cause poor exposures. Exposure compensation is necessary to "correct" some of the "errors" inherent to reflective metering.
There are several ways to do this... which is one of the main topics covered in the Peterson's book. It's far more info than we can ever provide here. (After all, it fills a book!).
Something Peterson doesn't cover is incident light meters. These operate differently than the reflective meter in your camera. An incident meter measures the light falling onto a subject, rather than what's being reflected off of is. This makes incident meters far more accurate, when used correctly. So one of the methods of arriving at accurate exposures is a separate, handheld incident meter.
With experience you also can learn to eyeball exposures. And the image playback an histogram available on most DSLRs is great feedback to confirm your settings.
Quote:
aperture -> (A) mode, F 8, ISO 250 + Auto ISO
Abso-frickin'-lutely NOT!
Manual + auto ISO is not manual. It's just another auto exposure mode.
Any AE mode, such as aperture priority (A or Av) + Auto ISO is piling one form of auto exposure on top of another form of auto exposure. Who knows what you'll get or whether or not it will be possible to accurately tweak it, as is necessary with any AE mode.
My recommendations...
1. If you use Auto ISO at all, use it with M. Just understand that when you do so, M is no longer manual.
2. Never use Auto ISO in conjunction with any AE mode... I cannot imagine any situation where that would serve any purpose.
3. Auto ISO implementation varies a lot depending upon the specific camera. Older models didn't have it at all, of course. Some cameras provide Auto ISO with only a very limited range. Worse, some do not allow you to adjust Exposure Compensation in Auto ISO. To be truly useful, Auto ISO must have upper and lower limit caps that can be set by the user and you absolutely must be able to use Exposure Compensation with it. Any camera lacking E.C., in particular, on Auto ISO, I simply wouldn't use it very much, if at all. There is plenty of adjustability in exposures using the other parameters: aperture and shutter speed.
Jun 8, 2015 12:23:20 #
Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson, great book, all you need to understand how to shoot manual!!
Jun 8, 2015 13:51:39 #
Jun 8, 2015 14:10:35 #
amfoto1 wrote:
You should buy the book "Understanding Exposu... (show quote)
Amphoto1 gives an excellent reply (and has a cool name). To actually learn photography, Manual everything! I shot for years with many types of cameras, 35mm Range Finder, 35mm SLR, 2-1/4 TLR, 4x5", 8x10" View Camera, Medium Format SLR, and then DSLR. I knew what I was doing long before I got lazy or could trust any Auto-Exposure setting. Now I understand what it is doing and when to use what mode or manual.
Jun 8, 2015 15:59:04 #
Marvin 80
Loc: San Diego
I'm off to France in a month. The camera D600 + lens is heavy. Does anyone know of where I can find the best variety of Camera straps and which would be the most comfortable.
Thanks
Thanks
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