burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Same goes for cleaning LED/LCD monitors. Use the right stuff, and apply it to the cleaning material, not the optical surface. Use fluid sparingly, so it does not wring out, run, or dribble from the cleaning tissue, wipe, or cloth.

With lenses, start in the center and spiral toward the edges. Apply very little pressure. Repeat as needed.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I protect all my LCD screens with Zagg shields. It's a nice, durable, tough plastic that can be easily removed, if necessary. They make them to cover laptop computers, too.

Dan Mc Loc: NM

Wow! I have trouble putting all of those rings together...maybe I'll just use vodka!

dar_clicks Loc: Utah

Besides the good responses in this thread, this subject has been covered in past threads with additional comments on techniques to use.

DaveyDitzer Loc: Western PA

Xylene is another aromatic hydrocarbon solvent. However AND THIS IS IMPORTANT, it is a powerful solvent and could damage some plastics and cements used in lenses. Also, it evaporates slowly so it will not work as well as methanol or VMP Naptha (aka lighter fluid kind of). I've use Xylene to degrease firearm parts but NEVER lenses or delicate equipment. It too is an inhalation hazard.

rjriggins11 Loc: Colorado Springs, CO

Not really, it's kind of expensive and a bottle of 99% alcohol at the local pharmacy is better for cleaning lenses. it's only $1.99 at the supermarket and will last forever, (or at least till next year). The higher the concentration the better but it doesn't work well on sensors, that's what the Eclipse is for.

megharupa8 Loc: Dallas Texas

Thank you

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Eclipse solution should be fine for both lens and sensor cleaning. However, it's just one step in the cleaning process.

You should:

1. First always use a bulb blower and or a very low power vacuum to remove any loose dust.

2a. "Wet clean" using a few drops of solution such as Eclipse, on a proper, lint free swab such as Pecs. In nearly every case, a sensor that's never been cleaned before requires a wet cleaning because there are oils on the surface that "dry" or "adhesive" cleaners would merely smear.

2b. If the sensor is oil-free, alternatives are to use a "dry" method (anti-static brush such as Arctic Butterfly), or "adhesive" method (such as Dust Aid for overall cleaning or Speck Grabber for individual particles). But do not use these on a sensor with oils on it, as those will just smear at remain on the surface to capture more dust, plus the oils likely will contaminate and ruin your cleaning device.

2c. You may need to do two or more wet cleanings, or some combination of wet, dry and adhesive cleanings to get a sensor completely clean.

3. Particularly after a wet cleaning, which nearly always leaves a bit of haze behind once the fluid evaporates, use a Sensor Pen to give the sensor a final polishing. This can also be used after dry or adhesive cleanings, though it's generally less necessary. Sensor Pen should never be used by itself. It's important to first use gentler means (wet, dry or adhesive method) to remove any specks that might scratch the surface, before using the pen for a final polishing. (BTW, the same is true when using a Lens Pen on lenses.) The final polishing with a Sensor Pen also helps reduce ability for new specks to adhere to the surface again, possibly allowing for less frequent need to clean the sensor.

4. A final puff of air from a bulb blower or gentle vacuuming can capture and remove specks still inside the camera, that might settle back onto the sensor eventually.

Always be sure your camera battery is fully charged and don't dawdle during the cleaning. On most cameras it requires steady power to hold the mirror up and the shutter open during the cleaning. You don't want to have the shutter close or the mirror drop back down onto any tools you are using in there. A full battery charge typically gives a half hour or so to work in there (however this may vary a lot depending upon camera, battery capacity and the age and condition of the battery).

Also never use common cotton buds (Q-Tips) anywhere inside a camera. Those shed tough, tiny cotton fibers that can get into and jam fine mechanisms such as shutters... resulting in an expensive repair.

Cheap paper "lens tissues" also aren't recommended, either for sensor or lens cleaning. Paper products made from wood pulp inevitably contain some minerals, some of which may be hard enough to scratch glass or damage coatings. The result is micro scratches that accumulate with each subsequent cleaning until the optics are ruined.

Optical cleaning swabs are generally made with "100% rag-based" paper or even cloth themselves, and are entirely lint free. Cost more, but are much safer to use than either cotton buds or cheap tissues.

Also don't use "canned air" instead of the bulb blower. This is for several reasons. One is that the blast from typical canned air can be too strong and damage delicate mechanisms like shutters. Also, many types of canned air risk some liquid propellant blowing out onto the surface you're trying to clean, leaving spots of its own. And, canned air can act like a refrigerant, can make for a cold blast that cools things off and might promote condensation inside the camera.

I would never use lighter fluid. Too dangerous and oily, besides.

And anything benzene-based is a serious carcinogen and quite dangerous to breathe in.

Spend the money for a good quality optical cleaning fluid, such as Eclipse or similar.

The best alternative I've heard of and used is vodka... The cheaper the better. The alcohol in it does a good job cleaning. And the cheaper types are filtered numerous times, which makes it pretty pure for cleaning purposes, too. A side benefit is that if the vodka doesn't do a good job cleaning, you can always drink enough of it to forget your problems for a while! :roll:

pmackd Loc: Alameda CA

I would think a lower concentration such as 70& isopropyl is better...because there are substances that alcohol will not dissolve that plain water will.

raysass Loc: Brooklin, On, Canada.

:thumbup: :thumbup:

toxdoc42

Xylene is an aromatic hydrocarbon, a close relative to benzene. It is a little more viscous, use sparingly and carefully.

quote=Dan Mc]Years ago, in a class, I recall using "Xylene" to clean then 'scopes. Not sure exactly what it was, but it cleaned quick and easy and no residue. It did have the aroma of lighter fluid though.[/quote]

CO

What about cleaning the focusing screen on DSLR cameras? I have from time to time used a filtered blower to remove dust from the focusing screen. I understand some focusing screens are made of plastic. I contacted Visible Dust company and they say their green series cleaner is safe for focusing screens. One of my cameras has a speck on the focusing screen that the blower won't remove. I can tell that it's not on the sensor because it doesn't show up in the photos - only when looking through the viewfinder.