gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

I like to do close-in shots of flowers, not macro, just close-ups with my D7000 and 18-200. Usually near the 200mm range at f16 for greater depth of field. I was experimenting and found that using the AF-C mode gave me consistently better sharpness because I must be doing some back and forth body motion while taking the shot. The AF-C mode allows the autofocus to adjust to that. Always trying to refine my handholding technique and avoid using a monopod or tripod. Never seem to have one handy when I need it or else its limitations don't fit with the composition at that particular moment.

A question I have is about f stop. What is the DOF of the 200mm, at its closest focus which I think is 11", at f16 and at f32? I'm using Manual mode with a high shutter speed to darken ambient daylight outside and my SB600 with a soft box. I can set my aperture to any f stop that I want to and let the flash expose the subject. Been using mostly f16 but could stop down more if that's advisable. All your thoughts on this would be appreciated.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Didereaux Loc: Swamps of E TX

First off depth of field DECREASES with increased focal length. 50mm ~8', while 200mm is about 6" at 10'.

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

You can also photograph subject on the same focal plane/get flat to subject. This will increase the illusion of a greater DoF as more of the subject will be in focus. As for stopping down I use to use F/22 all of the time but have settled in the F/16 range as I'm able to keep shutter speed up and ISO down at this aperture and still hand hold with comfort. That said, it is Always best to give it a try yourself, see where your comfort zone lies. A little bit of noise/high ISO, may be ok if you acquire the perfect DoF that your looking for. A little give and take. Remember your the Artist with the camera, play around and choose your color....

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

You might also try "focus lock". It will only allow the shutter to release when you have attained focus. Initially, it might frustrate you when it won't fire…. But do you really want OOF shots?

As you increase focal length and working distance, you will find that stopping all the way down becomes less necessary. But try it both ways and see which results please you.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

Using TTL flash with the SB600 solves the shutter speed and ISO issues. I set ISO at 200 and shutter at whatever speed will make the background go dark. On a bright day that can be as high as my camera can go, 1/8000. But the flash is what exposes the subject in daylight and stops any motion blur. I could stop down to f36 for DOF but I'm sure if that would result in other quality issues.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

Never thought of using focus lock. I'll give that a try too. Thanks.

Leitz Loc: Solms

Certainly smaller apertures will produce diffraction, and the greater the enlargement the greater the effect. You might want to photograph a subject with a lot of detail at various apertures and see for yourself just how much deterioration you can live with. Many, if not most, photographs do not NEED to be tack sharp across the board and often a little softening from diffraction may be preferable to having an important area out of focus. Diffraction can be measured, but its effect on an image is very subjective. May your endeavours be successful! :)