chemical amounts for b&w processing (Page 3): Hahaha, actually, SS reels are much easier than self loading plastic once you get the hang of it.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

GoofyNewfie wrote:

Nex question- stainless steel reels or the self- loading plastic?
Real men only use stainless.

Hahaha, actually, SS reels are much easier than self loading plastic once you get the hang of it.

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

GoofyNewfie wrote:

Nex question- stainless steel reels or the self- loading plastic?
Real men only use stainless.

Well I'm a girl soooo I have plastic. But that's for 35m or120. Then I got a 110 Baby Diana. Now I need to find a spool for 110 film. Before I shoot 110 I wanted to be able to develop it. I've only seen a few OLD stainless/metal spools for 110 film. Any ideas about finding something?

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

mcveed wrote:

If you have to ask this question I suggest you put off processing until you know what you are doing. If the chemicals are too warm or cold your processing will be affected. The timing is critical as is the application of stop and fixer. Get a book.

I know what I'm doing. I've done it a hundred times ...But it's been a year and a half. I'm in a different place so I have to set it up from scratch again instead of the auto flow I was use it. A minor glitch.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

MelodyeH wrote:

Well I'm a girl soooo I have plastic. But that's for 35m or120. Then I got a 110 Baby Diana. Now I need to find a spool for 110 film. Before I shoot 110 I wanted to be able to develop it. I've only seen a few OLD stainless/metal spools for 110 film. Any ideas about finding something?

Try Spiratone. Call them if needed.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

MelodyeH wrote:

Well I'm a girl soooo I have plastic. But that's for 35m or120. Then I got a 110 Baby Diana. Now I need to find a spool for 110 film. Before I shoot 110 I wanted to be able to develop it. I've only seen a few OLD stainless/metal spools for 110 film. Any ideas about finding something?

There's nothing wrong with the old SS ones. They haven't changed and they don't wear out.

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

TucsonCoyote wrote:

Oh Bull.....just B&W for God's sake ! :roll: 8-)

Thanks TucsonCoyote :) been there, done this before.

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

mcveed wrote:

Oh, did the OP specify that? I missed that part. If I recall that far back the temperature, stop bath, and fixer also apply to black and white film.

Seems like you missed a few parts. You were quick to respond without knowing the full scope. But thanks for ..... well, reminding me that not all the people in this forum are nice. Some just want to criticize others to make themselves feel better about what they THINK they know.

Thank you to all the people who are more friendly in sharing advice. That's why I joined. To get and give positive feedback on a photography issues.

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

TucsonCoyote wrote:

Earth Girls (are easy) were from California.....Yes! One of them was Geena Davis.....wait you talking about water!???!
Sorry ! :roll: 8-)

It was suggested that I fill the tank and empty it 10 times to wash instead of letting the water run for 5 - 10 min. A good idea in this drought.

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

Ka2azman wrote:

Just a thought, hope your chemicals are not out of date if it has been 18 months especially since you stated they are mixed. They do get old and go out of date.

The chemicals are new. Mixed a few days ago. I'll use them in the next few weeks. Then mix more. I'll use a water bath to heat all but the developer. Developer is mixed at the right temp just before use. That's just the way I work. :)

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

JCam wrote:

Don't forget you also need the Stop Solution and Fixer and copious amounts of water to rinse the film.

Good Luck!

Thanks JCam. Got all that ready. :)

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

rmalarz wrote:

Melodye, that will depend on several factors. Check the film manufacturer's web site and see what they recommend as far as ratio of developer to water. Then, you'll need to take into account the size of the tank you are using to determine the total quantity of mixture to use.
--Bob

I know the developer to water ratio. It's one the bottle of developer. Just needed to know the total amount for the tank. Found it on the tank itself. 20oz. I only want to mix enough developer for one tank at a time. The rest of the chemicals will be mixed it larger quantities but not so much that they won't be used in a short period of time, like a few weeks.

MelodyeH Loc: S.F. Bay area, CA

jackm1943 wrote:

There's nothing wrong with the old SS ones. They haven't changed and they don't wear out.

I just haven't used the SS spools. Don't have any old/ used 110 to practice with and don't know how to do it in the dark yet. It's all a learning process. I'll figure it out in my head and with my hands ... in the dark/black bag. Thanks.

bull drink water Loc: pontiac mi.

Rongnongno wrote:

And the next question will be: Where is the nearest poison center???

:shock: :mrgreen: :lol: :lol: :lol:

(J/k)

if a 17 year old boy can mix chemicals and develop film, then you should be ok.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

jackm1943 wrote:

There's nothing wrong with the old SS ones. They haven't changed and they don't wear out.

They do bend though.
One bonus is that they can be loaded even when wet, so you can process more rolls right after a batch.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

MelodyeH wrote:

Well I'm a girl soooo I have plastic. But that's for 35m or120. Then I got a 110 Baby Diana. Now I need to find a spool for 110 film. Before I shoot 110 I wanted to be able to develop it. I've only seen a few OLD stainless/metal spools for 110 film. Any ideas about finding something?

A bit more than you requested, but worth a look.

http://www.adorama.com/DKTPU.html

--Bob