safe lights (Page 2): There are films as well. I know I used them and they were safe light safe.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Leitz wrote:

Actually, safelights are for black and white printing paper, not film.

There are films as well. I know I used them and they were safe light safe.

Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN

Architect1776 wrote:

There are films as well. I know I used them and they were safe light safe.

Orthochromatic films. Duplication films such as ortho/ litho film for making interpostives and enlarged negatives. A dim green safelight could be used for development by inspection as well

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Darkroom317 wrote:

Orthochromatic films. Duplication films such as ortho/ litho film for making interpostives and enlarged negatives. A dim green safelight could be used for development by inspection as well

Thank you. :thumbup:

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Leitz wrote:

Actually, safelights are for black and white printing paper, not film.

A red safelight is used when processing orthochromatic films!

Ortho films are not sensitive to red light. They were commonly used in the graphic arts (along with rubylith films and amberlith papers) to make line negatives, film positives, page negatives and flats to "burn" to printing plates...

I worked in a yearbook company for years. We had red safelights in darkrooms where we used graphic arts films, and yellow safelights in darkrooms where we burned printing plates.

ALL of that died with the advent of the Mac and PC and desktop publishing. The process is entirely digital these days.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

If you want to make "accurate" renditions of a scene in a darkroom, dial in the lowest Kelvin temperature white balance your camera can reach (say, 2450 to 2600), because the 15-watt bulb in a typical safelight is about that color temperature. The camera will then give you a reasonable rendition of the safelight filter's color of light (Kodak Wratten OC or OA) as it affects the scene.

ISO 6400 and higher, a sturdy tripod, and long exposures may help. But you will get usable images!

Leitz Loc: Solms

I was about to add "with the exception or ortho film," but I see I have been corrected. Thanks.

Overkillphil Loc: northern illinois

I have taken water drop photos, some came out pretty good, but my method can only get one drop at a time,
got these by sitting watching the water drop, as it hit the surface of my pan I'd hit the remote shutter button, if you get your rhythm going you can get several shots in a row that are good, I was using an IV bag to drip the water, slow and steady drops from about 18 inches above the pan it works, the heart shaped drop is water dripping into a wine glass. So it works, Im just looking for something more reliable I bought the Camera axe setup to play with, well see what that gives me.
Phil.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Overkillphil wrote:

ok, I have a question, what happens if you use a safe light with today's DSLR cameras. I'm taking pics in a dark room in bulb mode what can I expect to see on my pics if the safe lights on during setup ??

back when I was doing my own film and developing I had variable power red lights,

does a dslr see the light from a safe light of any color,

Thanks Phil.

It looks like you will become the expert in this field.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Overkillphil wrote:

Well this is very interesting, however this isn't ... (show quote)

Just don't do the water drop shots in the dark, just do them at any time during the day in your kitchen sink, so much easier (and you don't have to worry about not seeing anything)!!

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Overkillphil wrote:

ok, I have a question, what happens if you use a safe light with today's DSLR cameras. I'm taking pics in a dark room in bulb mode what can I expect to see on my pics if the safe lights on during setup ??

back when I was doing my own film and developing I had variable power red lights,

does a dslr see the light from a safe light of any color,

Thanks Phil.

Phil, if your dslr sensor is coated with silver halide, no, you probably won't see anything!! :lol: :lol:
SS

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Darkroom317 wrote:

I took this yesterday in the museum darkroom where I work. Yes it will work. I used a very high ISO, a long shutter speed and self timer mode. I have also taken some in my home darkroom with red safelights. They have much more contrast as expected

317, are the night vision goggles so you can check out the cute girls in the dark?? :lol: :lol:
I see a magnasight, so I know their not for focus?!?! ;-)
SS

Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN

SharpShooter wrote:

317, are the night vision goggles so you can check out the cute girls in the dark?? :lol: :lol:
I see a magnasight, so I know their not for focus?!?! ;-)
SS

Haha. I wish. What night vision goggles?

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Overkillphil wrote:

Well this is very interesting, however this isn't ... (show quote)

So long as your ambient or "safelight" exposure is 6 or 7 stops below (dimmer than) the strobe exposure, you'll be okay. That should be easy to set up... Set white balance for the strobe, either as daylight, or 5500°K, or Strobe, or Custom white balance... fire away.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Darkroom317 wrote:

Haha. I wish. What night vision goggles?

In the photo, because of the slight movement, looks like the subject is wearing night goggles.
I just developed a roll last night myself and printed up a contact sheet, strips and a few prints, dialing up just the right contrast, complete with dry-mounting. Great stuff!!!! ;-)
SS

Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN

SharpShooter wrote:

In the photo, because of the slight movement, looks like the subject is wearing night goggles.
I just developed a roll last night myself and printed up a contact sheet, strips and a few prints, dialing up just the right contrast, complete with dry-mounting. Great stuff!!!! ;-)
SS

Lol. Those are my glasses. Are you going to post scans of the prints at some point? I'd love to see them :)