rkb
Loc: State College, PA
Does anyone have experience or know where I can get quality non glare glass or glass film to help in copying large old record books? Any that I have tried show reflection of copy stand and lights. Thanks in advance for any help.
rkb wrote:
Does anyone have experience or know where I can get quality non glare glass or glass film to help in copying large old record books? Any that I have tried show reflection of copy stand and lights. Thanks in advance for any help.
Any frame shop should be able to supply this for you.
rkb
Loc: State College, PA
I need the glass to lay on the pages to help the wrinkled pages lay flat.
rkb
Loc: State College, PA
I tried glass from a framing shop but what I got still show reflections. Need something better if available. Thanks.
rkb wrote:
I tried glass from a framing shop but what I got still show reflections. Need something better if available. Thanks.
Then you did not specify non-reflective glass, which by the way, will still reflect direct light if that's what you are using.
A good frame shop should have non glare glass available. Be sure it is museum or true non glare glass. There is a frosted glass that is sold as non glare and is not the thing. to use.
did you try using a polarizer while shooting? Should help to tame any reflections
Learn angle of incidence and angle of reflection
rkb
Loc: State College, PA
Yes, I tried a polarizer and it did almost noting to remove the reflection of the camera and lights from the glass. I will try and get museum glass and see how that works. Many thanks to all who respond!
Before scanners, I did a ton of copying with slide film where I worked.
Non-glare glass helped a bit (also lost some sharpness), but I found the best solution was to use black posterboard with a hole that fit tightly around the lens, blocking the camera, user and anything else that reflected. We painted the ceiling black in our copyroom.
You may want more than one size, smaller for close-up (this will allow the lights to illuminate what you are copying easier) and bigger to cover the larger area that may be reflected when shooting something larger.
Longer is better, but use at least a "normal' length lens, ie: 35mm for APS-C, 50mm for full-frame. A longer lens will allow you more room to light the subject, reduce the angle of view and what is reflected in the glass.
Polarizers were not necessary.
rkb
Loc: State College, PA
GoofyNewfie - thanks for sharing your knowledge from your experience!
Museum glass is probably your best bet, however even it will reflect back glare if you light it too head on. Regular non-glare glass is etched. It works to reduce glare, but it will also soften the image and mute the color of what is behind it, so most likely not your best choice. Be prepared; museum glass generally runs about x4 the cost of regular UV glass. However, places like Michael's sell a museum grade glass for less (they call it something else, but it is a "seconds" grade of TruVue museum glass).
rkb
Loc: State College, PA
Photographer Jim - thanks for sharing you knowledge! I will try and get TruVue museum glass as you suggest. Copy stand is high quality and lights are out to the side at about 45 angle. Again thanks!
rkb wrote:
Photographer Jim - thanks for sharing you knowledge! I will try and get TruVue museum glass as you suggest. Copy stand is high quality and lights are out to the side at about 45 angle. Again thanks!
Actual TruVue brand museum glass is expensive. The top line sold at Micheal's is actually made by TruVue but it is a slightly lesser grade (thinner for one) and the price is better. Hope it solves your problem.
rkb
Loc: State College, PA
Will check local Michael's now & online if not there. THANKS AGAIN!
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