lighthouse Loc: No Fixed Abode

I recommend Lee Foundation kit and Lee filters.
Big Stopper, Little Stopper & ND grads.

moondog Loc: afton ny

I like Cokin System, but don't limit myself to just that, and use screw on's when I have no other choice lol. I worked in the aerospace industry for 35 years machining aluminum, and think the graphite lube idea is right on the mark. We had processes where we baked a graphite mix on the threads to help them function, even on the space station. Also, the threads are "fine" and this increases the contact percentage.

Jmcoopermini

Lots of great stuff guys. Thanks so much!

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

I bought two new Tiffens and a B&W for my new camera this week. The filters were a little "tight" and screwed on a little less than smoothly. Your experience of 40 years solved the problem perfectly. Thank you very much!

HarryBinNC Loc: Blue Ridge Mtns, No.Carolina, USA

I have a Genustech 77mm 2-8 stop "Fader Filter" - $192.50 at B&H today. I have used it extensively with a variety of lenses with and without stop down rings, and am very happy with the results - no problems with sticking threads and no noticeable "color casts" either - I don't care that it is "Just two polarizers put together" - it works as advertised.

Tom47 Loc: Gettysburg, PA

I also use have used Cokin ND filters over the years and have had no major issues.

GAS496 Loc: Arizona

It always seems that people go back to the same old brand names. I am guilty of it myself most of the time. A psychologist told me it is mostly a male thing called "brand bias." If you don't believe me just look at the "fun" the Canon group has with the Nikon group and visa versa.

At a workshop in Death Valley two years ago I was introduced to a filter system that in my very humble opinion is far superior to any others. Its called Progrey. I was so impressed I now have the system and with just three adapters it works on my 35mm, medium and large format cameras. The system comes in small neoprene pouches that pack anywhere not taking up valuable space.

It is made so superior to anything I have seen and the cost is reasonable. Do yourself a favor and check it out before you buy on of the more well known name brands. www.progreyusa.com

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Whatever you decide on for the opacity of the filters you want, I'd purchase B+W filters. They use a brass frame and that doesn't stick very often.

Your idea of using step rings to adapt a larger filter to smaller lens dia. is a very cost effective way to have a filter for multiple lenses.
--Bob

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

If what you wanted were graduated ND filters, I would recommend the Lee system (or Cokin for lower priced.... Singh-Ray if money were no object), in the rectangular size that will cover your largest diameter lens, with adapters to be able to mount it on various lenses, as needed.

However, that's not what you are wanting. And since what you want are full NDs, I would recommend quality round, screw-in such as B+W or Hoya.

Several reasons...

Round filters are glass and can be multi-coated. The rectangular plastic filters generally are uncoated. In general the round filters also hold up better to repeated cleaning and are more scratch resistant, too.

Round filters can be fitted under lens hoods. It's difficult to shade the rectangular type very well.

I think it's a moot point about filters getting stuck. In the case of round filters, yes that can happen. But the adapter rings for the rectangular type mounting systems also can get stuck. So there's no real advantage between them.

I would simply get a 6- or 8-stop solid, round ND filter for longer exposure work. Maybe a 10- to 14-stop if you want to make really, really long exposures. Those two strengths are really all you typically need for still photography. (You also can use a circular polarizer, which gives between one and two stops reduction... possibly in conjunction with an ND filter, if neeeded).

You also may be able to minimize the number of sizes you need, without having to use step rings (which I dislike because they get in the way of using lens hoods). Think about what lenses you are likely to use for the long exposure shots. For example, I would most likely use an ND filter on one of my ultrawides for scenic shots, so would choose 77mm size that those lenses use. I would be unlikely to need with my 50mm and 85mm lenses that I mostly use for portraiture, so would not get an ND in the 58mm size they use.

I also would avoid a variable ND. The more affordable ones have all kinds of image issues (tints and uneven effects)... while the better quality are extremely expensive.

You really don't need a whole lot of different strengths, anyway. I'd start with a single filter: a 6- or 8-stop (and use the ISO, shutter and aperture to adjust within the range that provides). For even longer exposures in bright sunlight, a 14-stop filter might be needed. For shorter exposures or work in deep woods, a 4-stop filter might be handy. One and two stop NDs are generally unnecessary for still photography. (But may be needed for videography, which doesn't have as much range of adjustability.)

trevhug Loc: Marin County

Another way to stop sticking: tighten against a rubber band. thanks

John_F Loc: Minneapolis, MN

That step up & down rings and stacking filter rings tend to get stuck derives from a property of the metal. Many rings are made from aluminum and depending on the alloy will be more or less subject to 'seizing.' Some aluminum alloys are soft, others are harder, and some are anodized. Steel and brass rings are not common, but sturdy carbon-fiber reinforced plastic rings may already out there. The trick I use is to never tighten a ring, turn it to a soft stop and stop ther.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

I do use variable ND filters. Perhaps I am not professional enough, but they work great for me and it is easier when hiking around to have that one filter for that backwoods stream or some other thing that needs to have an ND on the lens and easy to try various shuter speeds by rotating the ring.

SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

I opened this thread to see if I could gather a pearl of wisdom.
And I did. ;)
Thanks!
Now I'm going to go remove the UV filters protecting my lenses and graphite them.