UV filter (Page 2): Recently I was shooting a 10K at the finish line. A spectator ran into me (they were jumping the baracade to take an iPad shot of a friend crossing the finish line)...

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Recently I was shooting a 10K at the finish line. A spectator ran into me (they were jumping the baracade to take an iPad shot of a friend crossing the finish line) and banged my lens with the point of an umberella. I lost a $40 dollar filter. I did not loose my $800 Sigma 18-35 1.8 lens.

just saying

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

tommyf wrote:

For my 50mm, what brand and what features do you look for?

B+W!!!
--Bob

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

dsmeltz wrote:

Recently I was shooting a 10K at the finish line. A spectator ran into me (they were jumping the baracade to take an iPad shot of a friend crossing the finish line) and banged my lens with the point of an umberella. I lost a $40 dollar filter. I did not loose my $800 Sigma 18-35 1.8 lens.

just saying

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

rmalarz wrote:

B+W!!!
--Bob

Maybe . . . Nicely made, not necessarily as good as their reputation seems to be. The Hoyas seem to outscore them consistently in terms of negative impact on the image. I use a B&W, a Heliopan, and several Hoyas - for my work, I can't see much of a difference. But I can buy a stack of Hoyas in their plastic mounts for the price of one B&W or a Heliopan.

TheDman Loc: USA

dsmeltz wrote:

I did not loose my $800 Sigma 18-35 1.8 lens.

just saying

Good thing. If you had loosed it, it would have fallen to the ground!

mtparker Loc: Cape Charles & Springfield, Virginia

Gene51 wrote:

Maybe . . . Nicely made, not necessarily as good as their reputation seems to be. The Hoyas seem to outscore them consistently in terms of negative impact on the image. I use a B&W, a Heliopan, and several Hoyas - for my work, I can't see much of a difference. But I can buy a stack of Hoyas in their plastic mounts for the price of one B&W or a Heliopan.

There are only a handful of high quality optical glass makers. Hoya has been one of them for a long time. Their client list is long and distinguished.

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

Here are a couple questions: How long do many of the eyeglasses last before showing a haze? (Approximately 1-2 years) How long do auto windshields last before showing a haze? (Approximately 10 year) Do you follow my train of thought? By directly cleaning the lens glass, it will eventually do similar. Generally, filters are less expensive.

Even though I think-out many of the possible hazards that may occur, you cant think of everyone of them. In the past I have had small accidents where the filter takes the brunt force. If it is the glass, the threads, or both, the filter saved the day.

I looked for a good filter a couple years back and found that Cokin came out with their Pure Harmonie filter line. http://www.cokin-filters.com/pure-harmonie/ All the marketing seemed okay to me so I got one for two of my heavily used lenses. So far Im not disappointed. BTW: A few months later Hoya had something similar. Recently Manfrotto started carrying things like them and the other day I saw an ad about some startup company with filters that looked just like the Cokin brand.

Suggestion: Get a good protection for each lens you have then unless you use a lot of different filters in your work, get an adapter ring to a larger size. Mine is from 52mm up to 77mm. Then you can just get an inexpensive adapter ring to fit the same larger filter on another lens. Sometimes it looks a bit funny but will work for everything short of many wide angle type lenses, (vignetting). If needed, dont forget a hood.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

TheDman wrote:

Good thing. If you had loosed it, it would have fallen to the ground!

Thank you! Alway need the typo police. :wink:

pterosonus Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio USA

I put a filter on all my lenses and only remove it when I use a polarizer. I also always use a hood. For digital cameras there is no difference between UV or clear protector. Try selling your lens when you say "has slight scratches or cleaning marks that don't affect image quality" and see how much less it sells for.
Buy top of the line from B+W, Heliopan, Hoya, Kenko or Marumi. B+W and Heliopan have brass threads that don't bind, but all my lenses have plastic threads so I don't think that matters. The best filters have multiple coatings (up to 8 on each side) to reduce flare and ghosting, hardened optical quality glass, are anti-static and clean easily. Only buy Hoya from authorized dealers. There have been fakes sold recently.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

pterosonus wrote:

I put a filter on all my lenses and only remove it... (show quote)

Belt and suspenders is not a bad idea. Esp. when the pants cost hundereds or thousands of dollars. :wink:

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

GENorkus wrote:

Here are a couple questions: How long do many of the eyeglasses last before showing a haze? (Approximately 1-2 years) How long do auto windshields last before showing a haze? (Approximately 10 year) Do you follow my train of thought? By directly cleaning the lens glass, it will eventually do similar. Generally, filters are less expensive.

Haze on lens glass is not the result of cleaning, unless you are using an inappropriate, oily cleaning fluid or you are not properly drying off the lens at the end of the cleaning cycle. When a camera lens does develop haze, it is usually internal, not external on the outer glass surface. A UV filter will not do much to prevent internal haze. I have a number of 30+ year old lenses that do not show any sign of haze. Avoiding conditions that lead to condensation is the #1 best way to prevent lens haze. I'm not saying UV filters do not have a practical purpose, but keeping haze at bay is not one of them.